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| Http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/supra/ | Short Cuts | ||||
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By: C. Andrew Zook - 6/2000 |
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Supra Engine Swap Part III Index: |
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| About the swap - Part III |
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| The lower radiator mounts - taken from the Supra | The somewhat kinked upper radiator hose. | The universal lower radiator hose. | The temperature gage sender. |
I used the original Supra radiator rather than the Cressida one that I bought at the junkyard because the location of the filler cap interfered with the hood. The Supra radiator had the cap located back from the radiator and provided just enough clearance for the hood to close. I used the bottom cradle mounts from the Supra and fabricated blocks to mount them, which I welded to the frame. The top radiator mounts were originally vertical, but I bent them horizontal and bolted them to the front body crossmember where the hood latch mounts.
I tried a variety of different radiator hoses for the top hose, and finally settled on the original Supra hose - shortened on either end. The nice folks at Pep Boys let me behind the counter and into their collection of hoses. After looking through them for about 30 minutes, I was unable to find anything that worked better. The lower radiator hose is a universal one from Pep Boys.
I bought an adjustable thermostat for the electric fans and mounted it behind the radiator. This works very well while driving, but after the truck is turned off the fans continue to run for a few minutes after the engine is shut off. I have been tuning the switch since I installed it, trying to eliminate this, but I have been unable to do so.
I mounted a temperature gage under the dash, just above the hood release. I wired the temp sensor for the gage into one of the ports on the engine side of the thermostat housing that was originally used for a vacuum switch, and re-routed the vacuum line. I have not noticed any difference in engine performance from eliminating this switch, and I have not found another way to get a temperature sensor in there.
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| The airbox and intake |
I planned on using the AFM and airbox from the Cressida which I purchased from the junkyard. I figured that since the Cressida also used the 5M-GE, the electronics were probably the same. This turned out to be false, and the Supra AFM would not fit onto the Cressida airbox, which fit so nicely into the engine compartment. I had to fit the round Supra airbox in there, and have still not come up with a good way to mount it.
I also removed the baffle on the original intake. I searched high and low for something that I could use as a coupler to mate the 2 female ends of hose together when my eyes came to rest on a nice Tupperware cup that looked to be the correct diameter! Sure enough, the cup was about the right size. I sawed the cup in two, and soon had the intake complete.
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| The new upper clutch line | The rubber clutch hose |
As mentioned previously, I used the Supra clutch, T/O bearing, and pressure plate. For the hydraulic clutch I retained the truck master cylinder, and used the Supra slave. The clutch on the Supra is located on the driver's side rather than the passenger side like the original. I (actually, my friend Jason) had to make a new hard line that runs to the driver's side frame rail, and then used the truck's flexible line to tie the two together.
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| The exhaust |
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| The exhaust from another angle |
I took the truck to a local exhaust shop to have the exhaust system made. I really wanted to use 2-1/4" tube, but they were out of stock on it at the moment, and I needed to have it done (3 days before GSMTR). They used 2-1/2" tubing and a turbo muffler which is a little louder than I would have liked, but sounds very good and quiets down nicely when the truck is not accelerating.
The exhaust is routed from the passenger side of the truck, between the body and the crossmember, and crosses over right below the rear output flange of the transfer case and continues back to exit at the stock location. The routing of the exhaust works quite well and does not hang down where it would be vulnerable to rock damage.
I had the shop use the first piece of the Supra's exhaust (from the manifold back to where the cat originally attached) and make everything new from there on back.
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| The wiring before the dash is installed |
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| The entry point into the cab for the EFI harness |
I routed the EFI harness through the firewall exactly where the 22RE harness enters the cab. I had to drill the hole as it was not present on my truck. A 2-1/8" hole saw worked well for this hole.
As it turns out, the wires to the computer are not long enough to reach the kick panel where the 22RE computer is located. I currently have the computer mounted behind the bump on the firewall where the AC would be on the truck - if it had AC. I would be interested in knowing where anyone else performing this conversion mounts the computer. There is very little room under the dash to hide it!
The ignition switch wiring turned out to be very easy! I was worried about what to do until I found that the wiring from both the Supra switch and the truck switch are identical. The colors of the wires between both harnesses are the same. I was able to splice the wires from the Supra switch into the truck switch, which has not caused any problems to date.
I patched the fuel pump into the Supra's fuse box. I located an unused plug that came on with the key in the "on" position and wired it into that. I am still a little skeptical of this setup and am not sure if it is bad for the fuel pump or not. Originally, the pump would shut off whenever it was up to pressure, but in the limited time I had, I was unable to figure out how the original wiring worked. This is definitely something that I would like to work out in the near future.
I still need to do something for the check engine light, and the oil pressure gage. I am hoping that the oil pressure sender from the 22R will have the same threads that the sender on the 5M-GE has and that I will just be able to use it.
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| The power steering hoses |
I had the power steering high pressure line made the day before I left for GSMTR. I took the truck to the local hydraulic shop and told them what I needed. I also took a few old Toyota lines in case they could not find the correct fittings. They ended up using the fittings from the old lines, as they could not find anything in their stock that would work.
The lines both run under the engine, and are attached to the front crossmember on the frame. I retained the Supra power steering pump, and the truck power steering gearbox. The steering feels a little easier than it originally did, and I presume that the pump is a little higher pressure or volume than the pump from the 22R.
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