Toyota Maintenance on 4x4Wire

Toyota Maintenance: Reassembling the Front End - Bearings, Hubs, and Rotors

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Joe Micciche - June, 2000

The outer bearing hardware, with a new lock washer.

In the first part of this series, Scott Wilson walked through tearing down the front end in preparation for servicing the wheel bearings. In this article, I'll cover reassembling the front end on both the solid axle and IFS trucks.

Once all of the service parts have been cleaned and checked for wear and condition, it's time to begin putting it all back together. I always clean the spindle and rotor of the old grease and apply a new coat to the spindle, and repack the cavity in the rotor. The inner bearing is repacked with grease and seated, and a new oil seal is driven into place. Be sure to coat the seal lip with grease as well, then place the rotor on the spindle.

The old grease is "scooped" out of the rotor and repacked prior to reassembly.

Repack the outer bearing in the same manner as the inner bearing. Work the grease through the rollers and over all surfaces as well. When it's ready, place the outer bearing over the spindle and slide it into place.

Next, place the thrust (or "claw") washer on the spindle and slide it up to the bearing. The spindle is notched and the washer only fits one way. Then thread the adjusting nut onto the spindle and tighten it by hand.

The preload on the outer bearing has to be set. To do so, using either a 54mm or 2 1/8" socket and a torque wrench, torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs. After setting it to this torque, spin the rotor/hub assembly each direction several times, then back off on the adjusting nut until you can turn it by hand. Then set the torque wrench to 18 ft. lbs. and torque the adjusting nut.

Toyota recommends that the rotor preload should be set to 12.6 ft. lbs. This can be accomplished with a spring gauge, or a fish scale. I had neither, so I trusted that this reassembly, as prior ones had gone, would be correct based on torque values and "feel".

The bearing and rotor installed, ready to clean up and put the hub and caliper back on.

Once you are confident the preload is correct, the lock washer is placed on the spindle followed by the lock nut. Torque the lock nut to 35 ft. lbs. and check the preload again (or, check the drag on the rotor by feel and instinct). If you check the preload and find it's off, you'll need to adjust the lock nut. Bend one tab on the lock washer back over an adjusting nut edge, and bend another forward over a lock nut edge.

At this point, the hub or ADD flange can be reinstalled. (Rebuilding the hub is covered in this article.) Place a new gasket on the hub surface on the rotor, then place the hub body or flange on the rotor assembly. Depending on axle type, you'll either need to replace the c-clip on the outer axle shaft (solid axle), or the retaining bolt and washer (IFS).

On this one, I put the hub cover on first. Note the anti-seize on the cone washers.

To facilitate easy removal of the cone washers during your next front-end maintenance, liberally coat them with anti-seize before replacing them. Tighten the nuts (both manual hub and ADD flange) down to 23 ft. lbs. (ADD axles will be complete at this point), then place the hub cover with a new gasket on the hub body and tighten the 6 bolts to 7 ft. lbs.

All done!

The caliper can now be put back on. Slide the caliper over the rotor, and seat it in the original mounting location. Torque the 2 17mm mounting bolts on the inside of the caliper to 90 ft. lbs.: for redundancy and safety, I use blue Loctite on these bolts, but it's not necessary. At this point, the reassembly is complete and you're ready to put the wheels back on!


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