Tundra information is now starting to come in from new Tundra owners. Look for Tundra in red.

What causes my steering wheel on my T100 squeak/squeal when I turn the wheel?
Erik-I haven't looked on my T100, but on my 4Runner, this is (caused by)  the electrical contact for the horn (like you suspected). It just scrapes/slides along the ring and could definitely make noise if not
lubricated. I would try using something thicker on it, like grease. I'm not sure the silicone spray is up to the job. Also, if left without lube, the metal plug will wear down and eventually not make contact with the
ring, causing your horn to quit working (that's what happened to my 4Runner). I've heard that the way to fix this is to put a little gob of solder on the end of the plug to make it taller. (This sounds better than
the way I fixed it). Jim-you could get a small tube of "dielectric grease" at any auto parts store.

My T100 engine makes a chirping sound when the weather is cold but stops as soon as the enigine warms up. Any ideas as to what can cause this?
Nando suggests, Checked your drive belts yet? When the chirping ocurrs spray some brake cleaner on them one by one to see which one it is. They may have stretched alittle and gotten a little dirty from the rain. Steve suggests you hold an old candle against the belt if you don't have brake cleaner. It's a temporary belt silencer.

What is the largest tire I can fit on my 2000 Tundra 4x4?
Dave says, I put 285/60/18 Bridgestone Dueler HTS on 18" Antera rims on my 4X4 Tundra and they fit fine.

How do you remove the rear side panels on a T100 to install new speakers?
From Gary,  A while ago I had put up a post asking if anyone knew how to remove the side panels to get to the speakers in the xtra cab and I got no answers so I took a friend of mines (is that a word?) advice, and he was correct by suggesting that the covers on the shoulder belt restraint that is on the top of the panels must pop off. Well they don't look like they do, but they do snap off and very easily I might add. So to get the panels off you remove 4 bolts that hold up the shoulder belts, and the 2 screws for each side window and pull the panels off. (they just snap on) They don't come off completely but enough to get in there and work.

When I shift my T100 from reverse to 1st, or just into reverse, there is occassionally a metallic sounding "ping" as the clutch is fully disengages and I begin to accelerate. Help!
Gary, The dealer removed the driveshaft and lubricated the companion flange. This worked for awhile but the noise returned. Rob, Lubrication of somethig called an impeller resolved this on my truck. Gary, My 98 T100 has been into the dealer several times for the same problem.The service mgr spoke to a field rep. and technical person in California about the problem. They stated that they know of no other T100's with the same problem. Now they are going to replace the companion flange and bolts to see if that resolves the problem.

What is causing my T100 to "hiccup" when at a cruising throttle,just barely touching the gas?
Peter's solution, I've finally gotten to the bottom of the hesitation problem that I was having, usually between startrup and full operating temp. The throttle position sensor (t.p.s.) was faulty and sticking intermitently. Mike just went for the simple fix first, replaced the spark plug wires and it ran well.

How can I reset my "Check Engine" light on my T100?
Tom recommends, There are history codes and current codes. Do not reset or disconnect anything. This makes it impossible for the dealer to see what the fault was when it occurred and all parameters associated with it! This is always WARRANTY!!! There are also CLASS 1 and CLASS 2 and CLASS 3 codes. Some faults have to occur 3 consecutive drive cycles (another story) for a code to be set and maybe some fault codes will turn on the light, maybe not on others. A CHECK ENGINE light or SERVICE ENGINE SOON light (not to be confused with the regular old red "engine"one) is something the DEALER needs to see unless you have tools, and experience and training. Period. And yes damage can be done. If the light blinks it means engine misfire and converter damage will occur. Go to Dealer NOW. At the least, a check engine light means something is or was wrong and your performance or mileage is compromised. Sometimes, hopefully not as often with Toyota, there is too small of a window in code setting or wrong software that can be upgraded by dealer to fix problems. You should ask a Ford or GM owner!!

Why does my Tundra's "Door Open" light come on while driving?
Hutch reports, My Tundra Limited 4X4 had this problem from the day I drove it home. I could hear a small "click" in the driver's side door pillar just before the light came on. The dealer found the door jamb switch for the access door was out of alignment. They fixed it the first time out and I haven't had any further problems. Iceman adds, I beleive the access door is the bad guy too. I have gotten the factory in on this and am waiting for new latches to come in. Then the factory will install them at the dealer to show them how to fix the door problems. I am alos told that the latches have been redesigned. I let everyone kown if it works.

My Tundra "catches" between 1st and 2nd gear when coasting at certain speeds, why?
We don't have the answer yet, but this is what members are experiencing. Mike, Ive had my Tundra for about 3 weeks..I like it but....there is a space between 1st and 2nd that catches when coasting and pressing the gas pedal about 20mph ..its a suddin catch and feels graby hard to explane but ive drivin automatic fords and never even thought of my trans...and now this bugs me is it me or the trans? Colt says, I've had an Access Cab V8 Tundra for about 3 months now and have experienced similiar behavior from my trans. It seems as though when coasting at a certain speed (as in coasting while making a turn), the tranmission finds itself in the wrong gear and immediately downshifts when pressing the gas. To me its an annoyance more than a problem, but I would be curious if other Tundra owners have experience a similar phenomenon.

Why do I feel "drag" like the brake is on when my T100 or Tundra is in 4WD?
Erik urges, I hope that you are not using 4wd on a high-friction suface like dry pavement! If so, you can cause very expensive damage and shorten the life of your drive-train!! The reason that you feel drag is that the drivetrain is binding (very bad!). The only way for it to un-bind is for tires to slip or for something to break! Only vehicles with "full time 4wd" or "All wheel drive" can use 4wd on dry pavement. Part-time 4wd vehicles are designed to only be used in 4wd in low-traction situations (like when you NEED it). Another thing you might have noticed is that it can be very difficult to shift OUT of 4wd when on pavement. This is because of the drivetrain bind. Pete says when you have 4WD engaged, the left front and the right rear, and the right front and the left rear are engaged together, much like locking differentials. Becuase of this, you shouldn't turn your steering wheel past half way. If you make a tight right turn, your right front wheel will turn more than your left rear wheel. This will cause your drive line to bind, and you will hear a hard mechanical pop when the driveline un-binds.

What causes my T100 headlight lenses to get cloudy?
One member states, Your clouding lenses are the effect of UV light on the plastic. I have a 95 with minimal clouding and I live in SUNNY South Florida. I had seen this problem before and I habitually park with the front end facing away from the sun. This has helped, but it does get progressively worse. If you replace your bulbs with a higher wattage bulb, the extra heat generated will probably accelerate the clouding. You can try approaching Toyota with your problem as a SAFETY issue and see what they say.

How do I disconnect my Tundra's daytime running lights?
Nando asks, Why cant you stand them? They are for your saftey! Im not sure if you can deactivate them or not but I would like to convince you not to. Ed's two cents, Not wanting the daylight running lights reminds me of those who refuse to turn on headlights in dense fog: You flash them, they salute you and tell you where to go, since if you can see 'em to flash 'em, they don't need them in the 1st place (oh yea, and it's a government conspiracy). Canada has had them for years, and like seat belts and the 3rd rear light: has done far more good than not. Use them and get used to them, in no time, you'll "foget aboud dum".

What gas mileage are Tundra owners getting?
Joshua is getting 16 mpg city and about 18 highway out of his SR5 4WD Access cab. Tim says, I have about 3,300 on my SR5 TRD 4X4 Xtra and am getting around 17 highway and 14 to 15 city. Looking at our message board it appears that highway mileage ranges from 16.5 to 18 mpg and city is 14 to 16 mpg.

What can I do to improve my Tundra headlights?
Joshua was somewhat disappointed that Toyota used the 9003 bulbs in the Tundra... The cutoff line really took some getting used to, especially up here in the hills of Pennsylvania. The way I lessened the problem is I adjusted my lights up a bit and switched to the Sylvania "Cool Blue" xenon bulbs. I picked them up at my local Autozone for $20 per pair. ( I also have them in my driving lights). They have a slight blue tint to them but they are a much whiter light than standard halogens. I'm very happy with them. Tim says some people have been complaining about the headlights being squirrly on the Tundra so he installed a set of Osram 100/80 watts, but warns he has not checked if this wattage might be too hot for the headlight assembly.

Why does my blower switch on my T100 only work intermittently?
Kevin says it is a fairly common problem on the small (pre-Tacoma trucks). What it should be is the resistor which controls the blower speeds. From what I understand it is located under the passenger-side of the dash, where it is exactly, I'm not certain and the resistor should be fairly inexpensive from your friendly Toyota dealer. I guess it could be a faulty switch but that seems to be rare. Joshua recommends cleaning the contacts on the "resistor network" that controls the blower speed. I had the same problem with my Dodge Dakota. Usually, the resistor "card" is mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment (with the
resistors through the firewall). Once these push-on connections get dirty and corroded, it doesn't make good contact and you might lose a couple blower speed settings.

Any problems with the Tundra?
Joshua had his exhaust system replaced because one (out of five total!) of the catalytic converters was rattling under hard acceleration. Another member experienced vibration in the steering wheel, only when towing, 40  mph +. Another member states, there seems to be more blind spots than the T-100 while driving, especially when trying to look back. The back seats now have headrests that take away vision. The whole back seat issue to me is problematic and I'm sure Toyota is going to be looking into it. My kids car seat sits in the middle yet we had to purchase one that seats upright for his legroom. Now he won't be able to sleep as comfortably as before. Oh ...the headrests on the driver and passenger seats don't adjust either. Tim says some people have been complaining about the headlights being squirrly on the Tundra so he installed a set of Osram 100/80 watts, but warns he has not checked if this wattage might be too hot for the headlight assembly.

How often is everyone changing their oil?
Weogo, Consumer Reports found that for severe taxi driving, changing oil every 6000 miles was a very effective interval. The dealership wants you in more often so they say change your oil every 3000 miles.
I change mine at 5000. With a new truck, more frequently probably is a good idea for the first 10,000 miles or so. If you are going to use synthetic oil, first use regular oil for the break-in period to properly seat piston rings. Steve changes his every 100,000 miles and one filter every six months and the other every year using the AmsOil synthetic oil dual filtration system.

Are there items Toyota is replacing in the T100 for free, but are not listed as a recall?
Seat belts have been replaced in many members T100's for free as long as they are still in their warranty period.  One member heard a "squeak" in the rear leaf spring of his 97' T100 4x4 and was told by the dealer they were having some problems with them - replaced for free.

How can I protect my tailgate from getting stolen?
Fernando came up with this idea-Take a trip down to your local auto parts store and purchase a 1 1/2" x 1/2" hose clamp for about 59 cents. Lower you tailgate and loosen the hose clamp completely. Wrap the hose clamp around the lower right tailgate hinge ( this is where you would lift the tailgate to remove it after removing the tailgate arms) and tighten the clamp down till the slack is taken up. Rotate the clamp so the head is now facing down and come from underneath with a long screwdriver to finish tightening the clamp. Snip off the excess of the clamp, close your tailgate, and enjoy your T100! Picture

My automatic transmission on my T100 does not always engage in park when I move the shifter. How can I fix this?
Gary suggests- You may want to try adjusting your shifter. Inside of your hood near the fire wall on the drivers side you have a 1/2" thick, 12" long rod that goes up and down when you shift. It can be adjusted on the top by changing the position of the nuts, try moving the rod up 1/4" and see how that works, if not try moving it down 1/4". I believe this will solve your problem.

What size tire can I put on my T100?
Here are a few ways our members have increased their tire sizes; Fernando-I just put on my new set of 33" Bridgestone A/T on my 96 T100 and guess what, they fit with no rubbing and only a 2" bodylift. That's right only 2" lift. I did have to remove the front mud flaps and I adjusted my torsion bars a little but only to make it look more level not to clear the tires. The tires are on cragars 175-1 series that are 15x8.5. I would not go any wider or else they will rub. Picture It looks great. David-I put 32's on my 95 with 15X8 wheels and they rubbed, but I just cranked up the torsion bars a little and that cured that problem. just have to tolerate a bumpy ride now. Benjamin went from 265/70-R16 Dunlops to 265/75-R16 BFG T/A KOs. There is no "real" rubbing. The tire does rub slightly against the mud flap on hard turns in reverse. Chad's T100 with a 4" lift kit, 285,75,R16 BFG Mud Terrains on 16x8 American Racing Wheels. Picture And finally Dec99/Jan00 Off Road Adventures magazine states the largest tire for the T100 with no lift is 31x10.5, 1.5" lift is 32x11.5 and with a 3" lift 33x12.5.

How high can I crank my torsion bars on my T100?
A point to remember when cranking the torsion bars for the bigger tires. While the truck rides higher
after twisting the bars, it still has the same amount of upward movement as before. I watched a guy that
had "miraculously" put 35" tires on a 92 Toyota with only a 2" body lift and cranking the bars all the way
try and drive over a tree trunk and upon coming down the other side discovering Mud Terrain tires also grab body work as well as they grab mud, ouch!!!! Keep an eye on them.  Kevin informs, Just be aware that sometimes the bolts which you will adjust can get rusted-up and be difficult to turn and could cause them to snap! (I have heard several stories of this happening to trucks which were driven in the "Rust Belt" or which have high mileage). Recently when I removed my stock torsion bars (in preparation for replacing them with a set of Sway-A-Way's) I shot both of the bolts with some "Liquid Wrench" type stuff and then brushed the threads clean with a wire brush each day for about a week before I removed them. When I removed mine they were fairly easy to turn (I used a super long box-end wrench to hold the top
nut and a 1/2" ratchet to turn the bolt. Since I was replacing the torsion bars anyway I also replaced the nuts and blots which hold/adjust the torsion bars with new hardware from Toyota. Be careful to keep track of how many times you turn the bolt so that you have a reference point should you need to return them to the stock positions. Also I have heard that trucks with Cranked T-Bars tend to ride rougher than those whose haven't been cranked or have installed aftermarket Torsion's.

What causes the loud screeching sound in my front end when I turn the wheel all the way in either direction while maneuvering my T100?
Bill gives this quick fix. If the wheels are turned all the way , the noise is probably coming from the steering stops on the on the lower control arms. It has plastic stops that hit against a piece of metal on the lower control arms. You can either replace the stops or put a little bit of grease on the metal and that should quiet the sound. Try it and see if that helps. Bonus info-Each front wheel has 2 metal plates on each side of the front axles which contact with the plastic caps on full wheel lock. As the plastic cap wears down, metal shows through and rubs against the metal plate at full lock when the wheel goes over a bump.

How can I get the emblems off my new Tundra or T100?
Ray did it this way. .I used a hair dryer and it took about 5 minutes to heat the area, and then I slowly pulled off the name plates and decal. I used a car polish to remove any little pieces of adhesive that were left. Wait for a hot day for best results.

What's the scoop on a service manual?
Robert sees it this way, I have both a Toyota factory and Haynes manual. The factory manual specific to the T100 and is great for detailed instructions on every repair. If you have worked on vehicles for a while and do not intend to do major repairs yourself, you may find the $20 Haynes manual more then adequate.
IMHO, the Haynes is the best aftermarket manual. Their web site is www.haynes.com.

Why don't my seat belts in my T100 retract all the way when I take them off? (Tundra comparison)
Ah yes, this is a very popular question that we seem to have answered through the e-mail list. It seems that the return springs are just VERY weak. Many members have taken their trucks in under warranty and had the seat belt mechanisms replaced with good to fair results. If your truck is out of warranty, one member was quoted $225 to replace the belts. One member suggested turning the seat belt over one time in the shoulder harness bracket so the belt is twisted.  This has worked for some members. Tim sprays his belt with silicon occasionally. Pop off the cover where the seat belt strap goes into the side panel and spray inside the retractor real good. Paul's experience, my Toyota dealer keeps replacing mine under the PowerTrain/Seatbelt Warranty 5yr/60,000 mi. If you are under 60,000 mi your dealer should replace it. That's what all the San Diego, CA. dealers are doing, don't know about anywhere else. From Tony, the seatbelts on the new Tundra retract much better and with more power than my T-100 ever did. It also is adjustable for larger or smaller people..i.e..: there is an arm that pivots and slides about six inches to accommodate a desired seatbelt point.  Gary, although the seatbelt of my Tundra retracted pretty well when new, it is beginning to need a little help now after 10K of use. Paul says the seat belts in his Tundra are better, but not great.

Why does my T100 idle so darn high when I start it up?
We wish we knew the answer to this one. One member sees it this way, "When it's colder, the starting rpm will be higher in order to comply with FED lean burn requirements... or some such regs", but the jury is still out.

How can I get the middle of  my hood, near the windshield, on my T100 to stop shaking/bouncing/vibrating/flexing?
One member had great luck by using a product called "PL Premium".  It is a
polyurethane adhesive he purchased at Menards (similar to a Home Depot or a
Lowes). He suggests applying a good bead of it in between the bracing and the hood sheet metal and leave it. It should set up in about four hours.

What can I do to decrease the amount of float/bounce my T100 has when I go over bumps and dips?
The answer seems to lie in the purchase of new shocks.  Word is that Toyota was looking to make the T100 feel less like a big truck by putting softer shocks on it. Many members have had very good results with the following gas shocks: Bilstein, Monroe, Rancho, Edelbrock and KYB  A member's quote, I put the Bilsteins on a 96 T100 in rear due to control the 450 lbs. of tongue weight of my trailer. I thought I would need air springs since the stock shocks couldn't handle the weight at all. I installed Bilsteins on all
four corners, which took care of the sagging rear problem (only with my trailer on) and actually raised the truck, probably an inch all around.

Are there any tips for installing Bilstein or other high pressure gas shocks on my T100 or Tundra?
Member Steve reports; Eat your Wheaties! These types of shocks are very difficult to compress, especially when you are under your truck. You may need to use a hydraulic jack to compress them once the top mount is secured. The rear shocks still require strong arms, but there is more room to work under the back of the truck. I installed the tops of the shocks first, but you may want to try the bottoms first. The only problem I ran into with the front shocks was that the bracket on the lower A-arm of the truck was not wide enough to accept the shock, so I had to bend truck bracket a bit. Nathan also reports the same problem with the lower shock mount not being wide enough.

Are there any tips for installing Warn hubs on my T100 4x4?
Rick and Steve's tips; My Warn catalog (p 60) says that T100 ('93-'98) use 26 spline sets, part number 28761. That should run you around $130-140 for this kit. You'll may be able to reuse the gasket on the base of the fixed hub that is replaced by the Warn premium manual hub or you can get new ones from your Toyota dealer. I didn't need any special tools, other than a brass hammer to tap all around the fixed hub being removed to help loosen the cone washers. I'd recommend you soak them liberally in Liquid Wrench or equivalent for a while before trying to get them off, and leave the nuts on the end of the studs while you work to loosen the cone washers. Otherwise they will FLY off into space somewhere. Course in my fumbling feeble first attempt to remove the cone washers, I managed to bung up the threads on several of the studs... and had to replace them. My initial attempts to remove the cone washers met with, um, mixed results. In any case, the brass hammer ($10 at AutoZone) did the trick for me. Once you get those cone washers off, the rest is straight forward. Keep in mind that your mileage may improve by 1 to 2 mpg, but your foot is the primary factor in the gas mileage quest. Just a word of warning. Remember to *not* engage 4wd unless you have the hubs locked (ie, no shift-on-the-fly).

What are the benefits of manual hubs?
Here is Erik's two cents: Manual hubs don't "override" the shift-on-the-fly. When the hubs are locked, it acts the same as before, 2wd or 4wd. When the hubs are unlocked, you only have 2wd of course and you better not try to shift into 4wd while moving ("on the fly") or you are going to hear some gears grinding!
As far as benefits go, when the hubs are unlocked the front axles don't turn so there is less wear and tear on the CV joints & boots, parts of the differential and also the bearing and bushing in the spindle that supports the outer CV. Fewer unnecessary spinning parts means less friction which gives the slightly better gas mileage. Personally I prefer OEM Toyota (Aisin) manual hubs over Warn. Some members have seen a 1/2 to 1 mpg increase while others say there is no increase in fuel econamy.

Why does my T100 's  brake warning light in the dash light up in the morning and  go on and off for a while on an irregular basis.
Member Peak's report on this topic; This happen to me too, some days it'll stay on then later go off... I thought my hand break wasn't released. Well it's the sensor near the brake fluid, when that light is on,.. pull the two wires that go on top of the brake fluid cap, then put it back in and the light will go off.  If it comes back on, it'll probably need to be replaced. But Wait! Member Jim adds; Past experience with Toyotas has shown me that this is an early indicator that your brake pads need changing, this is BEFORE the screeching noise that the pad wear indicators make. As your front discs wear, the pistons in the calipers self-adjust and allow a bit more fluid to be in the system, at some point this is apparently enough to trigger the brake sensor light. So, Check your pads before you add more brake fluid.

Why do my T100 brakes squeal under light breaking and how can I stop it?
Member Weogo suggests, (first check pad wear and that nothing is embedded in the pads) The discs may have a bit of glaze on them. Jack a wheel up, spin by hand and hold 80 grit abrasive paper on the disc.

Are there any tips for adding a body lift to my T100?
Fernando has this to say; I used a Performance Accessories 2" body lift kit. No gaps between bumper and body. If you use a 3" lift you will have the rear bumper 1" lower than factory but no space. Look under your rear bumper and you will see the factory drilled holes in your rear bumper to lift it 2" only. The kit includes front bumper bracket. My Truck is an automatic. 4x4 shifter needed some modification.
No noticeable difference in performance or ride for that matter. I do not recommend 3" lift, 2" already
put a lot of strain on certain hoses and will need more modification. 3" would clear 33" tires much better but I believe its not worth it. If you plan on 4x go with the 4" suspension w/ 33"s. It took him 12 hours to do by himself.

How do I figure out my speedometer correction and gear ratio after a tire size change?
From Dec99/Jan00 Off Road Adventures magazine
new tire diameter                       
______________ x indicated speed = actual speed
old tire diameter
old tire diameter
______________ x original ratio = effective ratio of new combination
new tire diameter

Why doesn't my clutch  disengage all the way on my T100   when I push in the clutch pedal?
James had this experience: Mine cracked... and the clutch would not disengage. Adjusting the peddle was a temporary fix, but then the bracket would crack more. Of course I didn't know what was going on until later. The local garage wanted $900 for a new clutch, which is what they thought it was after looking at the truck. I took it to Toyota for a second opinion. They figured out it was the bracket, didn't charge me for the diagnosis, and then ordered the part for me (which I installed myself). I've heard that this is not a rare problem with older trucks. This is not an isolated incident. Many members have had this problem. Dave, Look up under your dash, you want to look at the clutch kill switch next to the firewall. Push the clutch in by hand, see if ANYTHING flex's. If it's the firewall, the clutch, the pedal, ANYTHING you probably need this part. Here is the number for it: 55107-34030, it's called the Support Sub-Assy.  James, The bracket is a sheetmetal "box" shape, through which the pivot-point for the clutch peddle mounts (as well as the cruise safety switch and the ignition (clutch-in) safety switch). I paid the $61 and put it in myself. It's a one banana job. 2 bolts under the hood, and one bolt and a couple of pins (and two connectors) under the dash. I managed to do it without unhooking the hydraulic lines to the clutch master cylinder.

What info does the list have on T100 2WD suspension upgrades?
Bob's T-100 has been lowered about 1-inch in the front and has 2-inch lowering blocks in the rear. I have fitted a set of 255-55-17 tires on 8" wide aftermarket rims. This combination has never hit or rubbed. The challenge is finding rims with the correct offset. I found very few manufactures who made rims in this size for the T-100. The instructions that come with the Helwig rear swaybar are poor. Expect to spend 4 hours screwing around with the installation until you get it right. It really helps if you have an air rachet or impact
wrench for installing some of the nylok nuts. Also, expect interferance between the bar and your spare tire. I was able to slide the tire rearward about 1" to clear the bar.  The bar is also too stiff for the T-100. This results in excessive oversteer while turing in wet weather. I like a little oversteer but IMHO this was unsafe. I reduced the oversteer to a manageable level by replacing the rear urathane endlink bushings with rubber. The front end of a 2wd T100 is easy to lower. At the rear of each torsen bar there is ride height adjustment bolt. Just lift the front end off the ground (to unload the bar) and adjust as necessary. I found the best way to assure equal side to side ride height after lowering was to take a short drive and measure from the front of each frame rail to level ground. If you drop the front more then an inch, the A-arms will ride in the
front bumpstops. This makes for a real rough ride.

Why does my T100's automatic transmission light come on while I'm driving?
Don was told to take it out of overdrive on those long hills. That has solved the problem. Apparently, the
transmission heats up too much when it is "seeking" gears between third and overdrive. Tony's advice, basically, the consensus was to not trailer in OD, and to consider a tranny cooler. Jim adds, depends on the terrain, incline of the hill, how long you are on the incline, outside temperature, etc. Chadwick's two cents, it also depends on your tire size, i'm running 33's and the light comes on every once in a while if i'm driving around 70mph. When it comes on, I just slow down and let it cool off.

I need a trailer hitch but don't know which one to buy, any tips?
Weogo has a Hidden Hitch and says they aren't too hard to install if you have some stout wrenches. Paul also got a Hidden Hitch receiver from the Performance Products catalog and is very happy with it. It only took him 45 min or so to install, and no drilling or modification. He found it to be a reasonable price and  has more than maxed it out on many occasions without any problems.

I don't want a full bed liner but want to protect the bed floor, what can I do?
Ben got a Paint-Saver mat. Bought it from the local GMC dealer here for the '98 Sierra I just got rid of. Ran me about $45 bucks, just a thin piece of foam.