Climbing Mount Shasta	Short Cuts
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By: Michal Warzecha - 9/2000

All photos and text (c) Michal Warzecha except where noted. All rights reserved.

Part 2: Dog-bites, Bronchitis, and Rocks, Oh My!

With a week left before the climb, all was falling into place. We had the route planned, our gear was ready, I was in shape, and the weather forecast was looking very good. Then, our obstacles began to pop up. About four days before the trip, Steve called and said he had a bronchial infection. He was coughing up phlegm and had to quit the team. We were down to three. I promised Steve I would take him up in July when he recovered his breathing capacity. Considering that this would take me to altitude again, I did not mind.

The Dog Bite Armando Lara

Wednesday before our departure, our plans were dashed by a simple trip to the mailbox. I had a long day at work, and returned home on typical hot Sacramento evening. Maribelle was home and both of us went to our mailbox across the street. Nobody thinks about injuries while retrieving mail, but without warning or provocation, an irresponsible neighbor's dog snuck up behind me and bit my right calf and right wrist. I stumbled away from the dog and collapsed on my driveway. Maribelle frantically rushed me back to the house, lest the dog went after us again. Thankfully, the beast did not go after my wife or me again and we went to the hospital. Upon examination, the doctor said that the bite went to the muscle tissue in my calf, but my wrist injury was not as bad. I asked the doctor the obvious question on my mind (even though I already knew the answer); "Can I climb this weekend?" He raised his eyebrow, holding back a laugh at the silly question, and said, "You can, but if your wound becomes infected, expect your trip home to be in a helicopter." That was devastating news. That night, I left messages with Tim and Bob that the climb was cancelled. It was especially frustrating for Bob and Tim, as they had taken time off from work on Friday, rented gear, and spent $15 each for Shasta summit permits. They decided to attempt the mountain anyway, albeit by climbing the popular Avalanche Gulch route. Though it would be with the hordes, there was safety in numbers. Thankfully, they both reached the summit and had a safe and fun time.

The West Face and other routes.

The dog-bite was devastating. My convalescence lasted two weeks and I could not train. I also knew that the mountain had excellent snow conditions, and with every passing day the snow was melting away. Steve had begun recovering from his lung infection, and as my wounds healed, we began planning a new trip. The date was set for July 21. Initially, we opted to attempt the Cascade Gulch route again. As the date approached, and the Sacramento Valley baked in typical summer heat, I became concerned about the fleeting snow. The Monday before the expedition, my wounds were healing nicely, though my calf was stiff and I had a truly manly scar. I called the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station. According to the ranger, the Cascade Gulch route had no appreciable snow left, and had become a hike up a loose rock pile. Steve and I frantically began searching for other routes that avoided the hordes. All we could muster was the West Face. It was the next gully west of the usual "Dog Route" and apparently just as easy.

Approaching Mount Shasta from the South Steve Lyle

The day of the climb, I arrived at work before 6 a.m. to justify my afternoon hooky. At 11:00a.m., Steve and I turned off our computers and jumped into his Toyota Land Cruiser for the long drive to Shasta. Finally, after battling winter fat, bronchitis, and mad dogs, Steve and I were on our way. Our drive up I-5 carried us through never ending rice patties and farmer's fields. As we approached Redding, we began catching the first glimpses of our goal. As we approached the Southern Cascades, Shasta grew in our windshield. After Redding, we began driving uphill in the Cascade foothills. Around Dunsmuir, we had our first clear view of the mountain. She was majestic and inviting. The snowfields were beckoning and my mind's eye was revealing many tempting paths to the top.

City of Mount Shasta

By 4 p.m., we reached the city of Mt. Shasta and caught our first glimpse of the West Face. With binoculars, we had a clear sight of the route and it did not look good. The first thing we noticed was a sizable melt-out of the snow near the summit plateau. I estimated that the exposed rock face was over 100 feet in height. Had it been snow covered, the band would have taken less than 10 minutes to cover. Given that it was an exposed band of loose volcanic rock at altitude, we had a hard time estimating how much of an obstacle it would be. The lower portion of the route basically follows a gulch snowfield from about 9,300 feet to the summit plateau. Upon further Examination of the route, we discovered that it was between two rock-bands and did not go down the mountain in a straight line. This is not an issue in climbing the mountain, however this is a major concern for descent.

There are two ways of descending a mountain such as Shasta; the easy way and the hard way. The easy way involves glissading down the snow. Glissading is the next best thing to being 12 years old and sliding down a hillside with your sled. Or, better yet, if you are 18 years old, stealing a cafeteria tray from your dorm, buying a six pack of Schlitz, and illegally 'traying' through the campus arboretum. The basic technique of a glissade is sitting down on the snow and sliding on your butt down the mountain. One requirement for a safe and successful glissade is having a slope aimed down the fall-line without rocks and other nasty debris getting in your way. This is usually a problem with a snowfield that does not follow the fall-line! The hard way of descending is down-climbing the mountain. Though safe, down climbing takes several hours longer than a fun glissade and requires considerably more effort. The Avalanche Gulch route, on the other hand, was a contrast to the marginal West Face. We could see a clear, totally snow covered route to the summit plateau. And, we could see a deep, bobsled-type run glissade path carved into the snowfield.

We reached the trailhead by about 5pm. The truck was promptly unpacked and our preparations began in ernest. The only thing on my mind was the route. Both of us had a difficult decision to make. We badly wanted a wilderness experience. The last thing Steve and I desired was a climbing trip akin to shopping at the mall. But, the West Face presented several risks and cut our odds of reaching the summit. We had a sure shot with the "Mall" route. We decided to defer the decision, as our first nights camp would allow a climb of either route.

Horse Camp shelter

We began our hike with optimistic sprits. The hike to Horse Camp is a very short and pleasant one. It gives excellent view of the mountain. The view from just the parking lot is worth the drive and gives a sense of the arduous journey ahead. The entire bulk of Shasta's south side is visible. The trail gently winds through an evergreen forest and ends at Horse Camp. The camp, just below 8,000 feet elevation, is a shelter built by the Sierra Club in the 1920's. There is a delicious spring next to the building with a soothing cold water supply. It is one of the few places left in the high country where you can drink the water and not contract explosive diarrhea. Amazingly hundreds of people drink from this source with no ill effects.

Mike & Steve at Horse Camp

Given that it was Friday evening on one of California's busiest trails, Steve and I expected difficulty finding a campsite. Amazingly, we found a nice spot away from other tents. The evening was pleasant, and we hoped the weather would continue for the weekend. As we pitched the tent and prepared for the night, our thoughts were revolving around which route to take. Tomorrow morning we had to make a decision. Do we hike due north and take the riskier wilderness route, or do we hike northeast and go for the crowded 'sure bet.' We kept weighing the pros and cons of each route, and the decision hung over us.

[ Part I | Part II | Part III | Part IV | Part V | Part VI ]