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Climbing Mount Shasta

Short Cuts

By: Michal Warzecha - 9/2000

Part 1: Neurosis and Napoleonic Campaigns

Ever since I moved to Seattle in 1990, I have been in love with the Cascade volcanoes. Five years later, I moved to Sacramento, yet I continue heeding the call of the West Coast's icy Goliaths. About two or three times a year, I attempt a climb of a Cascade Major. This year, my plans were to climb Mt. Shasta via the Cascade Gulch.


Glorious Mount Shasta in California Kammy Caruss Burleson

The idea for the climb first began last December. I was with friends on a hike in the Grouse Ridge area of the Sierra Nevada. Between conversations revolving around work politics and how silly Y2K fanatics are for stocking up a three years supply of Spam, I began pondering another trip on California's Mount Shasta. I brought up the idea to my friends. Brendan laughed about my escapades, as he always does, but Steve, a very knowledgeable and experienced hiking buddy, was interested. Mt. Shasta had been in his sights for years and the opportunity to climb had just presented itself. A climbing team and expedition was born.

Several months later, I bumped into another friend named Bob. For the past several years, Bob has taken me whitewater rafting throughout the Sierra Nevada. During our outings, he inquired about Mt. Shasta. I had not spoken to Bob for about a year, and when I bumped into him at work, his first question was if I had a Shasta trip planned for the summer. My response was, "As a matter of fact, I would like you to meet my friend Steve." Our team now grew to three. A few days later, Bob called and asked if his friend Tim could come along. I asked Bob about Tim's experience. According to Bob, Tim had never climbed before, but was in excellent shape (including running marathons). Our team was now four.

We had the climb date set for June 24. I now had three months to organize a trip with three inexperienced team members. This is not a bad thing, and actually it is a great pleasure to introduce new people to the joys of mountaineering. But I suddenly realized that my three-team mates were in great to excellent shape. Looking down at my abs (or lack there of) I suddenly realized that I had allowed a pleasant Christmas and Millennial celebration to get the best of me. I immediately began a hitting the gym to get ready. The last thing I wanted was a 'volcano virgin' beating me to the top of the mountain!

As June approached, the team began preparing. About a week before the big trip, I hosted a dinner party to plan and prepare gear. My living room looked like an REI sales floor. Tents, Gore-Tex, and ice axes were strewn across the living room floor. My wife Maribelle was rather amused by my excitement prior to the planning dinner. All I could talk about was the big climb, the snow, the views, using the ice axe, and the adventure. Although she must have only heard, "Blah blah blah, mountains!!! Blah blah blah Marmots!!! Blah blah blah" , I am thankful she has the patience of a saint and accepts my mountaineering neurosis in stride.


The drive from Roseville to Mount Shasta

During the dinner we order pizza and began the planning. With maps and gear lists strewn across the dinner table, it felt more like a Napoleonic invasion plan than a mountaineer trip. The team reviewed routes, hazards, gear to take, things that could go wrong, etc. We had decided on a three-day expedition. Typical climbers usually take two days, with some "climbing animals" doing it in one (that is another story). Our first day would involve driving from Roseville, CA to Mt. Shasta. We decided we would leave work early. The drive is only about four and a half hours, and with our hooky from work, we would be at the trailhead by 5pm. That night, we could hike to Horse Camp (only about 1.5 miles) and stay the night. Day two (Saturday) would be an early wakeup and hike to Hidden Valley (a little less than 2 miles from Horse Camp). The remainder of the day would involve setting camp and training for summit day. Given that Bob, Steve and Tim were newbies to climbing, I decided I would spend a day training with them on proper snow climbing technique, ice axe usage and general wilderness travel. Day three would be the push to the summit and return home.


Some routes up Shasta: Cascade and Avalance Gulches

One aspect on my mind that day was the sheer size of the crowds that would be attempting to summit Mt. Shasta. The Avalanche Gulch route is the easiest and the standard way up the mountain. On a typical late spring weekend, hundreds of people attempt the mountain. Only about one-third succeed, and every year a few do not return home. If one were to photograph the mountain from the air on such a weekend, the Avalanche Gulch route would contain a long ant trail of weary climbers trudging upward. Given our desire to have a wilderness experience and not a repeat of a shopping trip to the mall, we decided to climb a more remote side of the mountain. Our plans were to go up the Cascade Gulch. The route is just as easy as the 'Dog Route', but with one percent the amount of people.

Examining the route on our maps, we were tantalized by what was in store. Climbing Shasta via the Cascade Gulch looked spectacular. On summit day, the first segment of the trek involved climbing from Hidden Valley to the Shasta - Shastina Saddle. The Saddle promised a breath-taking view of the Whitney Glacier (California's largest) and views of turquoise lakes locked in the mountains ice. The climb then followed the ridge next to the Whitney Glacier. While eating pizza we were buzzing about the sights to see and the photographs to shoot. We even talked about how early to wake up and catch the sunrise at a correct spot on the mountain.