Mitsubishi Tech: Inner CV Joint Boot Replacement Short Cuts
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Author/Photographer:Alex Kogan | Editor: Phil Hansford
December, 2001

Subject Vehicle:1992 Mitsubishi Montero SR

If you look closely at the boot you can see the tear

The night before a recent off road trip, I discovered that my driver's side inner CV joint boot was separated into two pieces. The trip was ruined since I didn't want to destroy my CV joint by stuffing it up with mud and debris. But a quick trip to NAPA got me a CV joint boot kit for $13. The kit includes all necessary hardware: the boot, grease, snap ring, and bands.

I've done this repair on other vehicles and the Montero as well, so some time ago I obtained a nice tool - the tie rod end/ball joint separator. Its very handy but of poor quality: cheap, made in China, and of the lowest grade steel possible, I believe. I've broken one before and this one will follow. So far each of them lasted for one round of Montero ball joints. There are other ways of removing the ball joints but I found this tool to be one of the easiest.

02tornboot.jpg 03tool.jpg 04steps.jpg
The root of the problem The balljoint separator tool The steps to fix your CV boot

Removing the drive shaft

05caliper.jpg 06tierod.jpg 07lowerjoint.jpg
The caliper assembly is hung out of the way When removing the tierod, the right tool helps! The infamous balljoint removal tool

08upperjoint.jpg 09knuckle.jpg 10grease.jpg
Upper balljoint Steering Knuckle Grease is the word...
11lotofgrease.jpg 11smallband.jpg 12newboot.jpg
Too much of a good thing? Not in this case.. The new retaining band is quite visible in this shot The newly reassembled front driveshaft

Replacing the boot (the following is true for DOJ type of joint)

The entire assembly, good as new!

Now you should look around to see if you have any CV joint spare parts left over. You don't want to start reassembling everything if you forgot to install a snap ring or one of the balls rolled away.

For assembly, follow disassembly steps. Use a rubber hammer to install the drive shaft back into the differential. Be careful not to damage a seal. Putting it all back together doesn't take that long.

There is supposed to be a shim between the outer end snap ring and the hub surface. It is needed to adjust drive shaft end play. After putting it all back together, use a feeler gage to measure the clearance between snap ring and the hub (or shim if you have one and the hub). The standard value is 0.4-0.7 mm. I'm missing the shim ever since an emergency visit to an auto shop. Regarding the tool. If anyone is going to buy one it has to have a 22 mm fork gap to fit on the lower ball joint. I had to significantly widen mine to fit.

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