TOY: Removing IFS diff

[Ed Wong <ewong_kaizen@xxxxxxxxx>]

>>>
As you
probably know, once the tulip is past the flange,
you're home free. 
>>>

The key *is* to keep the A arms "flat".

Obviously cranked T bars make this harder..

You can pul the lower ball joint to - that does nto
mess up the alignement. Its easier to pull the stud
from the castle nut than it is to undo the 4 bolts -
esp under East Coast rust conditions.

BTW - the *hardest* R&R I had was on the salvaged
frame section. There were NO T bars at the time, but
w/o any weight (all it had was the frame and the A
arms and the diff) it was hard to get enuff leverage
on anything... ended up removing one lower A arm (it
was all coming apart anyway).

Now I have a nice frame section to mock up shock hoops
and stuff....

Neighbors must think Im a redneck....
(engine sittingin a tire wrapped in a blue tarp, frame
propped up on the "cut" ends, etc.)

EWong




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