TOY: Re: intake

["Erik Bibelheimer" <thebeebs@xxxxxxx>]

> From: brandon naves <im4boardin@hotmail.com>
[snip]
> I replaced the front half shafts a few days ago, and learned not to 
> completely trust those shop manuals.  It took me about 4 hours to
actually 
> remove the old half shaft, after both ends were disconnected.  The diff 
> flange bolts are splined, and can usually be removed, but not these.  So 
> that did not leave enough clearance to get the shaft outta there.  I 
> eventually unbolted the steering linkage, upper control arm, and
everything 
> else I could to move the hub outwards, and eventually removed the shaft. 

> Installation was quick and simple, and the other side was a lot faster, 
> since I knew where to start.  And that 4 hours worth of crow-barring, 
> hammering and knuckle busting was summed up in the book as, "Once
unbolted 
> from the differential flange, pull it down, and remove it."

I went through that same PITA procedure several times before I somehow
finally figured out that, "Once unbolted from the differential flange," you
really can, "pull it down, and remove it."

It's kinda hard to explain, but it really IS possible to pull them out w/o
disconnecting one end of the knuckle to swing it out or knocking out the
studs on the stub shaft flange... the clearance is tight, but it can be
done.  Since I've figured it out, I've not found an IFS Toy I couldn't do
it on... a couple of '86's, an '88, my '97 T100, etc...

I'll attempt to explain:  In my experience, it easiest to do it w/o even
jacking up the truck or removing the tire (assuming you have access to
remove the hub w/o removing the tire). This keeps the arm as straight as
possible (which means it may be more difficult or impossible to do it if
the t-bars are cranked up).  Once the half shaft is "free" but still
entangled in the IFS mess, you compress the inner tulip joint and pull it
off the diff flange studs, then you turn it slighly so that the studs go
between the tabs on the tulip, then (keeping the joint compressed) you move
it down and back and wiggle it out past the flange. On the driver's side on
later model IFS's, you have to turn the diff flange so that the tab on the
tulip fits through one of the two notches in the diff flange.  As you
probably know, once the tulip is past the flange, you're home free. 
Reverse the procedure to get it back in...

The last CV I broke before the SAS I was able to change out in about 30
minutes (I was taking my time too) and I never jacked up the truck or
removed any tires. The guys I was wheeling with were kinda surprised how
easy it seemed. :)

Kinda late for you this time, but hopefully it helps somebody...

- Erik Bibelheimer, Auburn, CA
'86 44Runner, '97 T100
http://home.off-road.com/~bibelheimer