TOY: Re: Re: His is Bigger than Mine... (Rockstomper Tie Rod)

["Dale Sinkey" <dps444@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Can I use your double sleeved tie rod and drag link with high steer? Along
with Brain's arms?


SeaBass/Darren 82 Toyota,  Slo-Motion
Dual box, 16/35 Boggers! warn winch,
Lockrights, http://www.traildogg.homepage.com/profile.html
Oroville,Ca!!!!Where is that???
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Ellinger" <ellinger@frii.com>
To: <toyota@4x4wire.com>
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2000 8:04 AM
Subject: TOY: Re: His is Bigger than Mine... (Rockstomper Tie Rod)


> > Check out the pictures on Scott Ellinger's Rockstomper Rock Rod tie rod
press
> > release...
> > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/news/rockstomper/rockrod/
> >
> > With a base tube of 1.25" 0.219-wall DOM tubing sleeves with 1.5"
0.120-wall
> > DOM tubing, that baby is MASSIVE.
> >
> > I wonder where you reach a point of diminishing returns. I bet Scott
could
> find
> > a third layer of tubing to press over the secondary sleeve, but I do
have to
> > wonder when the failure point moves off the tie rod itself and onto the
tie
> > rod ends or steering arms.
>
> Haven't done it yet, but I have enough assorted sizes to get it all the
way to
> 2.25" OD (and probably in the 40-50 pound range) on hand... downside is,
> you start losing turning radius 'cause the tierod will smack into the diff
> cover.
>
> If you really want obscene beef, the guinea pig for the original Rock Rod,
> has been doing some work lately with 70's Ford LN8000 tie rod ends,
> which have a tapered stud 1" across on the *small* side of the taper,
1.25"
> shanks, and will be threaded into 1.875 0.375 DOM... unfortunately, I
think
> those ends... are too big to clear on a 2.5T Rockwell.  :)  :)  :)  He's
making
> radius arms out of them.
>
> > I'd like a rotating sleeve on a tie rod so that I can hit a boulder and
roll
> > up it. ;) My tongue is mostly in my cheek, here, since the radius of the
part
> > is so small (the force would be more directly toward the center, instead
of
> > deflecting more on a tangent, which would make the sleeve want to roll).
>
> Where do you want that shipped?  :)  Would make it tough to adjust toe,
> with a free-spinning sleeve... :)  But I can do that too.
>
> > My biggest reason for not upgrading my tie rod so far is that I want it
to be
> > the 'fuse' for my steering system... since the tie rod is much easier to
swap
> > in than the alternative: repairing a cracked frame, breaking a steering
arm,
> > or demolishing the drag link. I'll be adding a welder to my trail kit
shortly,
> > so I can fix any of the above-detailed breaks, but keeping a 'fuse'
still
> makes
> > a bit of sense.... I'm waffling.
>
> If you'd prefer beefier, but want something that'll still potentially bend
if
> you do grossly overload it, I can make 'em without the sleeve, like I do
> for high steer applications... then you'll be able to bend it around a
bit.
>
> Tough call, I know... personally, I'd rather fail an end than the
tierod...
> they're cheaper, easier, and faster, to change, plus I can fit four U
> joints, four tierod ends, an assortment of fuses, and six years worth of
> miniscule leftovers and trail crud, in my glovebox.  I like having all my
> fuses (electrical and mechanical) in one place... too bad outer CV's
> don't fit in the glovebox too.  :(
>
> --scott  ellinger@frii.com
> http://www.rockstomper.com
>
>
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>