TOY: Getting closer to solving stumble

["Scott Muir" <wsmuir@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Eli Madden:

>I discovered a vacuum hose lying in my engine compartment on the fender.
>It's about 16 inches long, and splits into two lines of about 3 inches
>long each on one end. One line on the double end has been plugged for some
>reason.
>I've discovered where one end goes. There is a vacuum device that's
>controlled by the throttle. It's right behind and below where the throttle
>cable attaches to the "pulley" on the engine. A threaded shaft activates
>the vacuum device, which then would have one end of this hose attached to
>it. I have pics I can post later if this doesn't make sense.

There are a couple things i can think of that haven't been mentioned:
1) Dashpot - This doesn't plug in anywhere..  its basically a neumatic shock
absorber that keeps your throttle from slamming closed when you are changing
gears on a standard. This is a feature of trucks without automatic
transmissions.

2) If you have air conditioning, there is a little vaccum actuated servo
that bumps the throttle off of idle in order to bring the engine rpm's up a
little at idle time.  This flips on when you activate your AC.  This is in 2
parts.. this piece that is attached to the throttle assy, and then there is
one of those expensive little electric vaccum solinoids attached to it..

I'm sorry I can't really describe the visual differences between the 2 of
this things cause I don't remember what the air conditioning actuator looks
like exactly.

>I also tried to short T and E1 again, with a paper clip this time. I think
>it's refusing to go into diagnostic mode for some reason. I got the paper
>clip in there good and solid, but there was no change in engine noise, and
>the Check Engine light stays solid when the engine is off but the key is
>in the run position. Someone told me that the Check Engine light should
>blink when in the key is in this position with the engine off and T and E1
>shorted.

I was at least ONE of the people who told you the check engine light should
be flashing when the ignition is on and the engine off.  How it is flashing
is a different story.. but it will either be flashing error codes or doing a
single blip every 3 seconds or so to tell you that it's 'all clear'.  The
check engine light shouldn't be on solid if the jumper is being registered
at the computer.

You have one of the trucks where the diagnostic connector is kinda fixed to
the fuse box on the passenger side (engine intake side) of the truck, yes?
might be worth while to figure out what the colour codes on the T and E1
wires are and verify that those are the ones that are being crossed.

Just looking at the factory manual for my 85 22re..  One wire is "G-Y"
meaning Green with  Yellow stripe.  That goes directly from the computer to
the test connector and shares no inputs on the computer.  The other is "BR"
which I think means just Brown.  The short story is that it ties to
ground...  The long story is it shares the same ground with  "BR-B" (brown
with blue stripe) wire off the AFM, the "BR" wire off the fuel pump check
connector.  (it also suggests that this ground is also used by Knock sensor,
and the O2 sensor...though the lines are dashed for those and I can't find a
legend to suggest what these are... my guess is that it means they are
grounded through the engine block)  Remember this is from the 85 manual I
reading.

The test connector is probably in a different place than mine which is over
by the coil/igniter assy (other side of truck)..
A real puzzler.........

hope this helps.

Scott