|[an error occurred while processing this directive]||Short Cuts|
By: Bryan Archambeault- 6/2000
|Steps 1 - 9: Removing the housing|
After making the hard decision to build my Dana 30 rather than go through an expensive axle upgrade, I decided to purchase an ARB and the Warn Hub Conversion kit. I began the project by removing the front axle housing from my Jeep. This isn't necessary to install the Warn Hub Conversion kit, but I wanted to take the entire unit to my friend Jess's house to take advantage of his expertise and vast tool selection.
I drained the gear oil and proceeded to remove the hub/bearing units and the axle shafts. Then I removed the gears/carrier/ez-locker, making sure that the carrier bearing caps were marked so I could put them back on the same way they came off. Jess came by with his truck and we drove the housing to his garage where I spent some time cleaning it up. Jess wanted to do the ARB first, so we did that install. Once that was done, we began the hub conversion kit. Along with the hub kit, I also bought Warn's premium axle shafts, including the one piece shaft on the passengers side to eliminate the need for the vacuum disconnect two piece axle shafts. Below are the paraphrased Warn installation instructions:
|Steps 10 - 11: Comparing the old two piece and new one piece passenger side shafts|
Steps 1 - 9: Remove housing from vehicle and remove roter/hub assemblies from knuckles. Remove axle shafts and separate inner axles from outer axles. I had already done this in preparation for the ARB install.
|Steps 10 - 11: Comparing the old and new driver side shafts|
Steps 10 - 11: Attach new outer axle shaft to original inner axle shaft. Since I also bought new axle shafts, we replaced the original axle shafts with the new ones at this point. The new shafts are essentially Dana 44 shafts machined to fit the Dana 30 housing. This also includes using Dana 44 u-joints. However, the u-joints they include in the kit are not greaseable! I should have looked for that before we started the install, but I didn't want to wait until I could get greaseable ones, so we went ahead with what they gave us. Needless to say, they will be replaced...
Steps 12 - 16: Install spindle to knuckle. As you can see from the picture, the bolts that go through the knuckle and into the spindle stick out a little past the spindle. The instructions don't say anything about this. So, we thought about cutting them, but ended up just putting some nuts on the end of them, just to be safe.
Rotor to Wheel Hub Installation
|Steps 12 - 16: Installing the spindle|
|Steps 1 - 2: Jess pressing the studs into the hub/roter|
Steps 1 - 2: Attach rotor to wheel hub and press in new studs. The last time I had my rotors turned, they said I would need new ones the next time they needed turned, so I went ahead and bought new rotors with the hub kit. These already have the center hole machined out to Warn's spec. From the instructions: "Before starting, new "full-cast" rotors from 1990 or newer Wrangler must be used with this kit. This rotor (ITT #65225 or equivalent) has a .25" thick mounting flange. Do not use the factory style "composite" rotor (.125" thick flange). Rotor pilot hole must be machined to a diameter of 3.575" +/- .015" to fit the wheel hub. Some factory wheels may not fit over the hublock body as required. Wheel center hole must be at least 2.78" in diameter. Check your wheels before proceeding."
Steps 1 - 8: Pack inner and outer wheel bearings with grease. Fill radial seal cavity in wheel hub with grease. Make sure lots of it gets under your nails. Now wipe your brow or scratch your nose. Mmmm...grease smells good... This step is actually one of the main reasons I bought this kit. I had already replaced to worn out bearing kits, and on the Wrangler, they are not serviceable, and are over $100 a pop. Now, if my bearings go bad, it's a lot more work to replace them, but it's much cheaper, and more fun!
|Steps 1 - 9: Wheel hub installed to spindle|
|Ready to mount|
Wheel Hub Installation
Steps 1 - 9: Install wheel hub assembly onto spindle. Thread inner nut on to spindle. Had to use a Dana 44 4 lug socket to thread this one. Of course Jess had one. Guess I'll need to buy one now. Torque to 50 ft-lb, loosen 1/2 turn, then re-torque to 3 to 5 ft-lb. Install lock washer and thread outer nut onto spindle. Torque to 125 to 150 ft-lb. Install splined washer and c-clip to to inboard side of axle shaft. Remount housing to vehicle and reinstall caliper. Install hublock to spindle. Install wheels and tires.
Overall, I was very impressed with the quality of the parts included with this kit. It was way more money than anyone should have to spend, especially when they can get more strength by simply swapping in a Dana 44 for probably half of what I paid. But, again, I was working under the constraint of my coil conversion kit.
|Ready to wheel|
Warn Industries, Inc.
12900 S.E. Capps Road
Clackamas, Oregon 97015 U.S.A.