Some people were asking, here's a good post:
*taken from the above sites
Torsion Bar Crank information:
The following information is for reference only. I am not a mechanic, technician or have anything to do with automotive repair. I am a Mitsubishi enthusiast who got on the internet and collected as much information as possible and attempted to crank the torsion myself.
The following information is from personal experience and opinion. Please work on your truck at your own risk….that said…..here's the beef:
1. With the truck level, measure the distance from the center of the wheel well lip to the top center of your wheel on each side. Mark the distance for each side, it will be important for two reasons. First you want to ensure that both sides are level when you're done, and second you want to limit the lift to no more than 2-3" from stock. (Any higher will cause stress to your CV joints, resulting in accelerated wear and possibly failure). Also, any higher will cause a backward slant (if you don't raise the rear) making it look….well dorky.
2. Now jack up the front end and secure on jackstands to take the pressure off the torsion bars. Slide underneath and find the two adjuster bolts located near the back of both torsion bars (towards the rear of the truck) and spray liberally with some Liquid Wrench. Let it soak in for a few mins. to free up the bolts. Using the socket wrench, tighten up the bolts on both sides the same amount of turns. This will torque up the torsion bars, causing them to lift the front end higher. Now lower the front end and take the same measurements as you did before you began, to determine the lift gained. Repeat the tightening/loosening of the bolts until both sides are level and lift gained is no more than 2-3".
3. Take the truck out for a cruise around the block. This will cause the torsion bars to "settle" and will most likely lower the initial lift height. You will notice a "stiffer" feel to the front end. This is normal, your tightening the torsion springs increasing tension. Now, after the torsion bar suspension has settled after your drive, repeat steps 2 ad 3 until the desired raise is achieved.
4. (Leaf Spring Rear Suspension) The rear can be lifted using either extended shackles (limited lift) or by adding an add-a-leaf (full length recommended).
4. (Coil Spring Rear Suspension) The rear can be lifted using either extended shackles or getting new springs all together. You can also use the air bag suspension helper to increase ride height in the rear. In my MS, I was able to get 0-2" of lift on demand from the drivers seat. Check the Air Lift Suspension information page (link on the top left portion of the page.)
After the front, rear or both is lifted and you're content with the new height, be sure to take your vehicle to get an alignment, as it will have altered it after the torsion bar lift. The combination of torsion bar lift does firm up the ride, but in my opinion improves it and in no way degrades it. The Montero Sport 2000 is already a soft riding suspension, and after the lift body roll and nose dive is almost entirely eliminated. It makes the MS more car-like in the ride. Be warned though, if you like the soft cushy ride of your MS and do not want a stiffer suspension, do not attempt this!