FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10224
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Re: Bob's 3.0L Engine
10/22/06 07:59 PM
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Thanks, Curtis. 
With nothing to do on a rainy afternoon, I did some checking on the heads - thought I'd save Bob the $40 the machine shop charges to remove the intake and exhaust manifold studs - not my favorite job, since I don't have a stud wrench - gave 'em about 3 sharp raps with a hammer and used vice-grips:
Found one broken exhaust stud on each head - they're sheared inside the head, so I'll leave the fun  of extracting those to the machine shop:
Checked the heads for flatness - both are warped.... driver side only ~.004" bowed, but the passenger side is bowed ~.010" (remember the blown gasket between #3 & #5?) - fortunately, it checks the same cross-corners as down the edges, so there's hope it can be salvaged. Here, you can see the light peeking through from behind the straightedge:
Since the heads have never been cut and the thickness measures .005" over spec, and service spec for flatness allows .008", a light cut might be ok..... won't know for sure until I get it in the machine shop and use better measuring tools, but with a limit of .008" on the deck and heads, a .005" extra head thickness, that allows the heads to be cut .013" less the deck cut (.0045") = .0085", which will only leave a gap of .0015" on the P/S head.... only guesstimates for now, but it just might be ok.
So how'd this happen?.... likely false torque readings due to deck threads, causing inadequate clamping pressure on the head between #3 & #5 and between #2 & #4.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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