We need to be realistic about this. Any modification requires you to adjust how you drive. If you want to "kick it in turn 3," then that is your choice and most likely you will be shelling out some $$ for more parts.

Expecting parts to not break under abuse is analogous to desiring to be able to do circles in a dry parking lot with both ARBs on. You can do it, but it is not advised unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket. It is just a very un-realistic expectation for the gear.

The up-side is that Rob and Randii are correct. The weak link will start being the CV shafts, not the R&P. How often that happens will depend on how you drive. Bouncing the tires on high traction surfaces will almost guarantee that you will become familiar with how to swap CV shafts and tie rods on the trail. It is not a consequence of the gears. It is a consequence of your right foot.

As for what Chad at Tera said about the strength issue, it is a loaded question. "Are 5.38's weaker than 5.13's?" Well, yes they are. The ring gears are thinner, so by the nature of metal, they are weaker. The real question is if they are weak enough to cause a problem. That will only be able to be determined by usage.

Overall, 5.38's just make more sense. There is no reason to shoot for a lower goal. It is just up to each individual to decide if it is a modification they can live with.

To bring Tony's cake into this, it is like choosing a smaller cake instead of the optional larger cake when either one is being offered.

Michael

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