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It took a few days but my T100 is back up with a new timing belt.

This is big job. There might be some short cuts but I don't know them

remove
alternator belt
AC belt (adjuster all rusted up)
power steering belt
front grill (to get to the 4 radiator bolts)
fan shroud
radiator
fan
fan clutch
studs from upper radiator hose mount (so the belt cover can be removed)
front cam cover
break the crank bolt free (parking brake on engine in gear, not too bad)
power steering shiv on crank
power steering pump (it was in the way)
balancer (had to buy a puller at auto zone 15 bucks)
timing belt
water pump (still Okay but, 18 year old, no point in pushing it, got a new one)
cam bolts (these took days, I had to get a tool to hold the cams,
my homemade version just bent, the tool was 40 dollars,
also got a 20 inch 3/4 breaker bar and impact socket for 25 dollars
they were still tough. They did not come loose until I applied heat
to the head of the bolts. I found specs which said 80 ft/lb.
I know I applied at least 200 on the first attempt.
cam pulleys
rear cover
upper idler
the old idle had play in the bearings
tensioner and right idler (still seem okay, but got a new one)

New parts
alternator belt
power steering belt
AC belt
upper radiator hose
lower radiator hose
lower bypass hose
timing belt
water pump
thermostat
upper idler
tensioner idler (old tensioner seemed okay)

tools and parts $425. I'm sure all this would have been 1200 at a dealer and with fed and state income tax on a persons earnings it would take a pay check of about 1600 to clear enough to pay the bill. I would do it again. Not fun but, I would do it again. I also know it was done right!


#1 piston up on compression
cam gear lined up using factory marks
installing the belt took some time as I had to move the left gear to get the belt on then rotate it back to alignment and double check. Wrap the belt around the right gear and install on cam. Bolt down idler and install tensioner. Rotate crank 2 times and check crank and cam positions again. Torque cam gear bolts to 80 ft/lb. Torque Crank shaft balancer bolt to 180 ft/lb.

Put all the rest of the crap back on. Fill with water and fire it up. Test drive and all seems fine. No leaks! Next day drain the water and add antifreeze.

This is not a difficult job but it takes time when you don't do this stuff everyday. You have got to go slow, not brake bolts or pull threads out of the aluminum, remembering we have an aluminum block. Anyone can do it, just take your time and never force things. Make damn sure not to cross thread bolts. Clean water pump surface area and use good sealer, the new pump came with a gasket. A leak means taking it all appart and starting over. Toyota is lame in only using sealer and not using gaskets.

I have to say this seems to be a dumb design. All this work just to replace a belt and water pump. A water pump job on an old 70s Chevy inline 6 truck only takes 1/2 hour. I know modern engines are more efficient but,,,,,,,, with the cost of maintaining all these things at 100 dollar plus shop rates I doubt much is saved on fuel in the long run.

Will my 1994 T100 now go another 18 years? I hope so, there is no truck like this on the market today. I like my old T100 manual 5 speed more then the new Tundra by a mile.

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Nice write up.

1 thing, aluminum heads, cast iron block...

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89 4Runner
3" BL, M/T locks, 33"bfg mt, bilstein, Kayline, tubebumper, toyotafiberglass panels
TBI: Elocker,3.4 w/ORS,b+b,S2Sstg2cams,arias pistons,P+P intake,TRDs/c,URDpullies+7th,downey headers,MAPECU2,WEGO WB, SupraMAF,walboro255,stg4clutch, EPaOo2 sim

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