Body Damage is Cool
Loc: Orange Park, FL
Re: Where to 'begin?'
04/25/12 09:52 PM
I will need to find the passenger side windshield washer fluid nozzle and likely the whole workings of the washer tank & pump. The rear fluid system is not functional either, or the wiper for that matter. The cool thing is Mitsubishi made the dash switch serviceable. Take it out, disassemble it and clean it and that will be a good start on getting it working. Use a continuity tester on it to check it first.
Dash is in good shape, all gauges work; including the temp gage (steady at cool, is that bad or wrong?) No, that shows thermostat is working good and radiator and thermoclutch cooling fan are working good would like to have the complete sticker/decal for the clinometers, as they scratched the bottom off for some reason. Good luck with that, might have to change out the whole pod. But check with pocuk.com, they have a white sticker set-up that could work for you
Dome light is kinda functional, may replace with something with LEDs and more functional. Clean the contacts and replace the bulb with one of those LED bulbs, huge difference, works great!!!
Clutch pedal has play but nothing I dont feel is abnormal for age. Breaks are kinda mushy, but again, age? You talked about topping off fluids on your maintenance, why not just bleed until all old fluid is gone and only new fluid shows when bleeding. I bought one with 300,000 miles on it and the difference of bleed out the old fluid and running the new was tremendous.
Otherwise I am going to focus on mechanics first. Will look something like this:
So I right away (Friday Sunday night) plan to:
Oil/filter & air filter
Drain the radiator and flush it out
Top off brake & clutch fluids Like i said above, bleed all of old fluid out, especially the clutch fluid.
Grease any zerk I can reach. Use the downloadable FSM to find them all. Leave a donation!
Change Plugs? Wires? Do it, use NGK IF YOU CAN ON THE PLUGS ONLY I RECOMMEND, the wires I really haven't noticed a difference between a few different makers,
Pull wheels off and inspect brakes/rotors, shake check bearing play. Regrease wheel bearings and the auto hubs until you get Phils new hubs! I highly recommend those, they have worked great for me!
Change Diff. fluid as time allows, maybe a next weekend project
Next I want to:
Inspect/assess the front end bushings/boots for signs of wear. After using FSM to find all fittings and putting NEW grease in them, see how that helps with squeaking.
Replace/repair front & rear windshield washer systems and rear wiper motor. SEE ABOVE NOTES ON SWITCHES.
Crank bolt? What does this job entail? Buy the new one from the recall and swap it in. Just a swap, pretty easy.
Order & Install manual locking hubs from Tuffpans.com Do it, they work great and help a lot!
Beg wife for inexpensive welder to build some bumpers & bull bars. Craigslist is your friend. $50 Miller Thunderbolt made these:
Thats what I got so far. I think I got it covered, unless you all can think of anything I am missing? Pictures of your ride, we all live vicariously thru everyone else's pics.
87 Raider,3.5 soon,, 35's w/ a 4" BL,
bumpers, sliders, OME 2" lift Dakar springs, 98 Air locker, disc brake rear end, Gen 2 front brakes, plh manual hubs,
88 SWB-2.6/5spd, 2" BL, bumpers and sliders, Starion shift knob
89 SWB, V-6 6SPD, OME Shocks, 15X10 w/33's, 2"BL