OK, here is what I had to do to actually get this done. I took the two bolts that hold the water pipe to the back of the block out and put my left hand down in there (word of warning...You must have a very small forearm to get it down in that space) to hold and guide the pipe into the back of the waterpump. Holding the pump in my right hand I carefully angled the pump just enough so I could see the water pipe entering the orifice for the pump. Once I was certain the pipe was lined up with the waterpump( I was able to let the waterpump go because I had applied silicone to the paper gasket on both sides and this was enough to hold the waterpump in place when I let it go to start the bolts) I lined up the pump as best as I could with the five bolt holes. I finger started the bolts (all the while holding the waterpipe with my left hand) and then began tightening the bolts in a back and forth pattern to get the pump to settle into the block. Once the waterpump was slightly snug to the block I proceeded to finesse the waterpipe into the back of the pump until I felt it hit the small stop within the waterpump. Then I put the two bolts back into the bracket that secures the waterpipe to the back of the engine and tightened them all the way. Going back to the front of the engine where the waterpump is I waited about 5 or 10 minutes before torquing the bolts to spec. This drew the pump all the way in to the waterpipe and gave the silicone that I applied with my gasket a chance to cure a little and perhaps give a better seal. After that I waited until the next day to reset my timing (belt came off and cam sprung) before I reassembled the front end and tried to start it. Voila! No leaks and running like a top! Of course this all would have been easier with another person there to help me but I did what I could with just me) Thanks everyone for the input, tricks and tips.
-------------------- '89 Dodge Raider/swb/ 3.0L Auto trans/ Bone stock.
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