Scottie2113
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 05/18/03
Posts: 2047
Loc: Fort Huachuca, AZ
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OK, so I just got brand new 35 MTR's. In an effort to make them last as long as possible, I got a front end alignment as soon as I put them on. I went fourwheeling in the mountains (very steep stuff with lots of washes) a few times with the SR already. I have flexed out the suspension pretty hard several times. This put a lot of force on the steering linkage (tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms, etc.) One day after going 4wheeling, I noticed when I am driving straight down the road, my steering wheel is no longer level like it used to be. After getting home, I looked at the front tires and the toe-in was way out (both front tires not really pointing the same way). So I took it straight to get another alignment (which by the way isn't so cheap if I am doing them every 2 weeks). They aligned it the best they could, but told me it would probably go back out again over the next few weeks b/c there is soo much play in the steering linkage (tie rod ends inner and outer, pitman arm, and idler arm). Its $1000 to replace all the above mentioned parts and includes labor.
Now my question: I have 100k miles on this truck, is it just that these parts weren't really lubed like they should have been and are just wore out really bad???? OR does the stress and strain of 4 wheeling really pull these parts out of alignment???? I don't want to dump 1000 bucks on something that will just happen again after I go wheeling a few times with it. Any advice and past experience on this topic is greatly appreciated before I go get all those parts replaced just to have the same thing happen again.
scottie 
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97 Montero SR Mitsu Rear Diff Lock ARB Front Diff Lock 4.9 R&P 3.15 transfer 43:1 crawl ratio 2" susp lift 2" body lift 2" Gas Tank Lift 35x12.5 MTRs on 15x10 Dick Cepeks Rock Sliderz Custom rear bumper ARB front winch bumper 12,000 lbs MM Winch
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TommyM
Rock Warrior
Reged: 02/07/04
Posts: 568
Loc: Durango, CO
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Quote:
is it just that these parts weren't really lubed like they should have been and are just wore out really bad????
Could be.
Quote:
OR does the stress and strain of 4 wheeling really pull these parts out of alignment????
Could be.
Did you make them show you what's wrong? They should be able to demonstrate the problem for you.
It's really easy work, if you just have some basic (but kinda big) tools, you can do it yourself. A big hammer, a 1/2" drive ratchet & sockets. . .
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90 LWB Montero, 270k, 265/75R16, 16x8 ARE Bajas, Budget Lift, Towbar, Aux Brakes (towed with camper), Jotto Desk, remote oil filter
92 bone stock base model beater
Parting out 4 more
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cap510
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 05/03/01
Posts: 1334
Loc: Bay Area, CA USA
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Funny thing they told me the same thing when I went to get an aligment after breaking/replacing a tie rod... I just told the guy do your best to get the wheels straight, I'll probably be back after another crazy offroad trip! 
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94/95 Montero SR "rockcrawler"
Riding on 37" MTRs
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Scottie2113
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 05/18/03
Posts: 2047
Loc: Fort Huachuca, AZ
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yeah, they showed me, I can move one tire about 1/4" to 1/2" and it doesn't really move the other tire, so about 1/4" to 1/2" of play between all the parts from left tire to right tire.
I guess what I am trying to decide is do I spend the money to replace all those parts so I can maintain my alignment or will 4 wheeling just pull those parts right out of alignment again? If I replace the parts, will it keep the alignment even if I do go 4wheeling? I never had this problem with my other montero and I wheeled that one a lot more than I have wheeled this one so far. would tire size have anything to do with how easy it is to pull those parts out of alignment? my LS only had 32's on it, the SR has 35's on it. If 4wheeling is going to pull it out of alignment anyway, I wouldn't think its worth it to replace all those parts. the only way I would spend the money to get them replaced is if they keep the alignment a lot longer than what I currently have.
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97 Montero SR Mitsu Rear Diff Lock ARB Front Diff Lock 4.9 R&P 3.15 transfer 43:1 crawl ratio 2" susp lift 2" body lift 2" Gas Tank Lift 35x12.5 MTRs on 15x10 Dick Cepeks Rock Sliderz Custom rear bumper ARB front winch bumper 12,000 lbs MM Winch
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Angelo
Roll Me Over
Reged: 02/21/02
Posts: 3459
Loc: Charlotte NC
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You shouldnt have any or much problems at all once you replace them. I go wheeling pretty often and havent needed to adjust.. Well, it could use a very lil touch up.. But I think its safe to say that it will fix most of your problems. you might have to adjust the camber a lil when done. Good luck Scott!
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99JAOS2"& OME 2"body 4.90s ARB HS9500i Skids&Ladder 16"315BFG JAOSRemote& Rack 3Row Rad IPF back& Searchlite 33TSL StreetLock HID Overhead Console/CB switchPanel FrARB RrLocker TJMSnorkel 160AAlt Sliders 2nd Tranny Cooler QuickAirII& Tank Rear frame/tank Lift
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rabsol1
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 11/11/06
Posts: 30
Loc: Oliver Springs, TN
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Looks like I'll be doing some parts replacement when the weather warms a bit myself. I just replaced the engine in my 90 LS (214,000 on the clock, completely stock), and have put about 200 miles on it since the eng. replacement (and actually since I got it). I must say, I do love the vehicle...it's a blast to drive. While driving over the weekend, I noticed at certain speeds (varying), the steering wheel/front end would shake (without braking), like there are components in the steering that are loose, or quite worn. Looks like it was lubed pretty regular, and the LS hasn't had much off road time in it's life. But due to mileage alone, I'm expecting to be replacing at least some front end parts very soon. And BTW, tires are cheaper A/Ts on factory alloys, so no magnification of the problem here due to upsizing of tires/wheels.
Now, if I can get the thing to ever idle below 1200-1500, I'll be in even better shape...LOL
So, just for sake of asking: Anyone have a known, cheaper source of the front end/steering parts?
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89 TSi Black 5-spd
88 TSi Blue Auto
88 TSi Black 5-spd (parts)
89 TSi Red 5-spd (parts)
92 Mighty Max 2.4 5-spd - Daily Driver
03 Montero Sport AWD Limited, LOADED
90 Montero LS 3.0 Auto
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OldColt
Roll Me Over
Reged: 09/19/06
Posts: 2599
Loc: East Wallyworld Vermont
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Hi Scottie,
I would replace any worn parts since they may as well be normal attrition. Do it yourself, learn to set the toe in with a tape rule. A worn tie rod imposes a shock load that can beat up other parts, you do not need to replace every one, just the ones that are bad. You will get to the others in time.
When you are out wheeling, do you get into situations when you feel you need to really pull on the steering wheel to get a bound up wheel to steer. Due to the larger tires you really want to use caution when a front tire is bound and resists being steered. The loads in the linkage are higher now due to the ratio of diameter to length of the steering arms.
To set the toe, get a pair of straight edges about 3' long or longer. I use 1" box tube.
Block them up off the ground so they rest against the outer side wall above any bulge level to the ground. That might be 8" up on your rig.
Lock the steering wheel straight with a strap or bungee.
You then hook a tape from one side and read the other. Front then rear of the tire. Adjust as needed.
You can sight down a sidewall and reference to a rear tire to see which one is not straight. Or use a longer strait edge.
If you do not have a helper bungee the strait edge to a spoke on a rim to hold it there.
you should be able to get that parts replacement down to $30-80 and a few hours of your time.
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Cheers, Charlie
If It ain't broke, Modify it!
87 Montero turbo Converted back in 1989
95 Montero SR 3.8 DOHC First one?
Will a 94 Macrocab turbocharged with a 6 speed be next?
ffmsd.com
http://www.cardomain.com/id/Old-Colt
http://6g72rwd.forumcircle.com
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Scottie2113
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 05/18/03
Posts: 2047
Loc: Fort Huachuca, AZ
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yeah, I thought about doing it myself, but the shop that did up the estimate for me offered to do a free computer alignment for me if I get it all done there. I know it still costs more in the long run at the shop, but it is tempting. I guess I will just have to think about it some more. there was one situation where I really had to pull on the steering wheel hard to keep from rolling the truck. nothing popped, but I guess that huge stress must have done it. would newer parts hold up to that stress better/longer??? or would the same thing happen?
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97 Montero SR Mitsu Rear Diff Lock ARB Front Diff Lock 4.9 R&P 3.15 transfer 43:1 crawl ratio 2" susp lift 2" body lift 2" Gas Tank Lift 35x12.5 MTRs on 15x10 Dick Cepeks Rock Sliderz Custom rear bumper ARB front winch bumper 12,000 lbs MM Winch
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Tag
Roll Me Over
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 3863
Loc: Oakwood, IL
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Sounds like most of your wear is in the idler arm to me.
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89 2dr 3.0 AT, manual hubs. 33x12.5 MT
gen 2 coils,Cranked front tbars
Dons rocker protection, Front/Rear Bumpers. ARB rear locker, 2" BL, Beefed up skid plates/trailing arms. Gen II uca, 2 Bouncy seats www.youtube.com/TagGeorge
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ryany
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 02/13/05
Posts: 1116
Loc: Phoenix, AZ
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I purchased the complete set a 4 ball joints & 4 tie rod ends on e-bay for $158. plus shipping, and was very happy with the quality when I got them. They came from Armcan Auto Parts in Ontario.
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95 Montero SR 3.5
OME shocks & springs, cranked torsion bars, 2" body lift, 3" gas tank lift, 4.90 gears, Aussie front locker, factory rear locker, Aisin manual hubs, Roger Brown Rock Sliderz, 315/75r16 (35") BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s on 16x8 Eagle Alloys, custom 2 1/4" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler
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