Anonymous
Unregistered
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I have a leak on the rear diff that I would like to fix. The gear oil is coming out of the front of the diff where the driveshaft/ ujoint meets it. Im sure that there are gaskets and bearings in there somewhere. Anyone know if this would be an easy fix. Im hoping its just a matter of replacing a gasket. Thanks.
85 CJ7 unknown axles
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BigJim
Web Wheeler
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 7724
Loc: Central Texas
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It is a simple thing to do. Just prying out the old SEAL and tapping in a new one. The only problem might be getting the propper torque back on the pinion nut. I just torque them back to 100+ lbs.. and they have always worked fine.
Big JIm 
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professional bovine relocation specialist
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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im afraid you have to break that down for me. I couldnt find any info or exploded diagrams online.
Are you saying that I just have to remove the pinion nut (i believe visible behind the ujoint)and the gasket will be right there? Then its just a matter of popping the new gasket in and replacing the nut? Im sorry to dumb down this forum with my questions but some of this is new to me.
Any suggestions as to how I identify the axle I have so that I can purchase the correct gasket??
Thanks again
Dave
Rochester NY
85CJ 258 mc2150 33s HEI
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BigJim
Web Wheeler
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 7724
Loc: Central Texas
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The nut holds the YOKE in the rear end. You take the nut off and slide the YOKE out and then pull and install a new seal. Then reinstall the yoke and retorque the nut.
Big Jim
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professional bovine relocation specialist
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oldgreen
Wheeler
Reged: 08/14/05
Posts: 209
Loc: winnipeg,manitoba
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When you take the nut off there isn,t a gasket behind it what there is, is an oil seal. I,ve always found it a good idea to put a little grease on the inside lip of the seal before installing it, it helps it slide on the shaft better and maybe helps it seal a little better also. If the diff cover is round like one of those old WW2 british army helmets it,s a AMC model 20 which is what an 85 CJ7 likely would have stock.
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84 CJ7 304 HEI 35 BFG,s rear dana 60 with detroit locker,Viar compressor, fibreglass body, 2 1/2 spring lift, TF999auto, Warn 8000 winch, Plus a cool little trailer on 35,s. JEEP stands for just empty every pocket
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superdawg
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 10/13/99
Posts: 2211
Loc: Denver, Colorado
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AMC 20 is a crush collar axle, if you would like your axle to NOT smoke the pinion bearings...have a pro do it and don't mess around.
A pro that has done many pinion seals on crush collar axles can sneak a new seal in without screwing it up, however, a rookie who is not sure what part to change should not learn on this one.
Locked up pinion bearings on the highway can be a huge deal,unless anyone here is 100% positive on a safe proceedure, don't recomend it.
The 110% best way to replace that seal is to do a full tear down and replace the crush collar at the same time.
That way a full inspection of bearings, races and seal surfaces can be looked at.
SD
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BigJim
Web Wheeler
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 7724
Loc: Central Texas
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Howdy Supe. I understand your concern. You have posted the BOOK way to replace a pinion seal.
However I have replaced numerous seals with crush sleeves and never have had a problem.
If it takes say 175 ftlbs to crush the sleeve to the position it wants to be in..good! I always reinstall the pinion nut to 125 or so ftlbs.. So the nut is tight but not tight enough to recrush the existing sleeve.
I have NEVER had a problem with this technique. Of course you are correct if one wishes to retighten to the torque needed to CRUSH the sleeve he must know what he is doing.
Big Jim
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professional bovine relocation specialist
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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I did a whole lot of reading online on this repair last night. I saw a lot of differing opinions and suggestions of up to 250 lbs on that pinion nut. Im gonna get an estimate just to play it safe. Looks like I have a leak by the drum too so maybe I will just get it all fixed while im there. Im sure it will be big $$
Thanks all
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BigJim
Web Wheeler
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 7724
Loc: Central Texas
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Tell us when you get the price...I am interested.
Big Jim
Ps the 250 ftlbs is to change the length of the crush sleeve.
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professional bovine relocation specialist
Edited by BigJim (10/23/06 06:31 PM)
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superdawg
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 10/13/99
Posts: 2211
Loc: Denver, Colorado
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ddd, unless the "research" is direct from guys who do gear and axle work every day, don't always believe what you read on the web.
Big Jim aways sides with DIYers and will always lead you to the cheapest route. For many that is a god send, for some who clearly don't have any idea what they are doing BJ will get you into certain trouble.
Adding any more crush to the existing collar will lead to bearing failure, if it does not, dumb luck is on your side.
Sneaking a pinion seal in at my shop runs $65 P&L, full tear down and reseal/with new inner axle seals crush collar, pinion seal, gear oil and labor will run $350 P&L
If new axle bearings, diff bearings and inner/outer/pinion seals are required P&L would come in at $600.
SD
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