Liquid_force
Mudrunner
Reged: 07/24/03
Posts: 264
Loc: Lawrence, KS
|
|
This is only hypothetically, of course... 
If I were so careless as to drop a valve keeper down an oil passage that couldn't easily be retrieved with a magnetic stick what would be the best way to deal with it??
--------------------
Dec '07 purchase -- '99 Sport LTD 3.5L SOHC - 139k, now 188k
'95 Montero LS 206k+ (traded)
New DD - '99 Taurus SHO 95k - V8's are fun 
|
pcc
Rock Warrior
Reged: 03/17/05
Posts: 781
Loc: South East U.S.A.
|
|
Hypothetically Jason, you needed to plug all the oil passage holes before attempting the spring removal.
Anyway I don't think a keeper will be any problem. It may make its way down to the pan and even maybe out on the next oil change. You can try pouring some oil down that passage and see if it will flush out. It's too big be sucked up in the oil pump. You could try to get a magnet in the oil pan and see if that will snag it. Glad to see you were able to get a spring compressor that works. Send a pic of the one you bought.
--------------------
92 Montero LS 3.0L V6 Auto, Stock, Original owner, 164,500K miles
|
conner
Rock Warrior
Reged: 08/30/04
Posts: 642
Loc: N.J.
|
|
Quote:
Hypothetically Jason, you needed to plug all the oil passage holes before attempting the spring removal.
Anyway I don't think a keeper will be any problem. It may make its way down to the pan and even maybe out on the next oil change. You can try pouring some oil down that passage and see if it will flush out. It's too big be sucked up in the oil pump. You could try to get a magnet in the oil pan and see if that will snag it. Glad to see you were able to get a spring compressor that works. Send a pic of the one you bought.
How is the keeper going to get through the oil galley, oil pump and pick-up tube, into the pan?
Conner
--------------------
Over the hill but still climbing.
88 Montero 2.6L auto, manual hubs, cooling fan conversion gps,recurved distributor,LSD Diff.
|
fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
|
|
dropped into the oil return hole, not the oil supply.
I'd be very concerned about the keeper jamming against the block or pan as the crank rotates. Some clearances are very tight. I'd have to get it out. Sorry for the news.
Try sucking it out with a shop vac with mesh in the sucker pipe to see if you actually caught it, unless you like fingering thru the trash in the vac can. Have the magnet next to the keepers as you compress the valve spring to avoid having to pull the pan, AND stuff the holes with rags. I've been right here, too, once upon a time....
One random thought. You may be able to capture the keeper with a magnet thru the pan and drag it to the drain. Good luck...
--------------------
"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
|
conner
Rock Warrior
Reged: 08/30/04
Posts: 642
Loc: N.J.
|
|
Quote:
dropped into the oil return hole, not the oil supply.
Im sorry Ed, where does he say return hole and not feed? I agree, its got to come out,where ever it is.
Conner
--------------------
Over the hill but still climbing.
88 Montero 2.6L auto, manual hubs, cooling fan conversion gps,recurved distributor,LSD Diff.
|
pcc
Rock Warrior
Reged: 03/17/05
Posts: 781
Loc: South East U.S.A.
|
|
Quote:
I'd be very concerned about the keeper jamming against the block or pan as the crank rotates. Some clearances are very tight. I'd have to get it out.
For the clearance between the pan and bottom stroke of the crankshaft to jam a keeper the crank would have to dip way into the oil in the pan. Does this happen, or does the crank rotate above the pan oil? I guess a keeper could jam between a counter weight and the block, but for Liquid to tear the engine down or even remove the pan seems a lot for him since he's just attempting his first valve seal replacement. As we said trying to fish a magnet up the oil drain seems a good thing to try. Maybe also running a large magnet along the outside of the pan and attempting to slide the keeper to a more accessable spot may be possible. I personally would loose sleep over this, but I'm anal about my engines and in the end it may not be a big deal?
--------------------
92 Montero LS 3.0L V6 Auto, Stock, Original owner, 164,500K miles
|
FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
|
|
Quote:
For the clearance between the pan and bottom stroke of the crankshaft to jam a keeper the crank would have to dip way into the oil in the pan. Does this happen, or does the crank rotate above the pan oil? I guess a keeper could jam between a counter weight and the block,
It won't jam between the crankshaft and the pan - the pickup tube requires gobs of clearance below the crankshaft:
It CAN jam between a crank throw and the bearing blocks, - or between rods, though. If it dropped into an oil return hole, I think I'd try to see if it went all the way through. If not, perhaps it can be retrieved with a telescoping magnet. If it went all the way through, I'd remove the pan to get it out.
Odds are good it'll fall through to the pan and eventually get trapped on the drain plug magnet, but it's a crap shoot.
Frank
--------------------
'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Edited by FrankR (10/25/06 11:25 AM)
|
Liquid_force
Mudrunner
Reged: 07/24/03
Posts: 264
Loc: Lawrence, KS
|
|
well, I'm afraid murphy's law has taken hold of me.
I finished my work -- got everything put back together.
Before I hooked the fuel supply back up I bumped the starter just to make sure everything sounded ok. It did. So I tried it again for a second or so...CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK!!!
OMG!!
I don't know what it is, honestly I don't really know what it COULD be.
I've gotten back in far enough to see that when I turn the crank manually - the cam gears don't seem to be turning, and the crank won't turn much at all w/o the CLACK.
My heart is sunk.
I should also add that I did change the timing belt while I was in there, and I did that when the rockers were out. Could that have caused a problem? I thought all my marks were dead on.
This is killing me - I was ready to pat myself on the back for a job well done with the hopes I could fish that keeper out of the oil pan with my telescopic magnet on my next oil change.
|
FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
|
|
What engine do you have? If it's a 24-valve and you didn't time the valve train correctly, you have probably bent the valves. I hope not.
Frank
--------------------
'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
|
Liquid_force
Mudrunner
Reged: 07/24/03
Posts: 264
Loc: Lawrence, KS
|
|
Quote:
What engine do you have? If it's a 24-valve and you didn't time the valve train correctly, you have probably bent the valves. I hope not.
Frank
I guess I'm not following...
Yes, it's the 24v SOHC.
What do you mean by time the valve train?
I changed the timing belt - all the marks lined up. I spun the crank. Everything looked good.
I understand that w/o the rockers installed the valves weren't moving so I wasn't able to actually verify there weren't any problems, but if the marks were dead on....
What changed between then and now?
|
Previous
Index
Next
Threaded
Edit
Reply
Quote
