Fred Blackstone
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 01/20/00
Posts: 1817
Loc: Higlands Ranch, CO
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This past winter I started having problems with the REP 8000 winch. The winch will pull the line in, but will not go in the reverse direction. I suspect that the problem is in one of the two solenoids, it could also be a problem with the pendant out/in switch. I checked out the price of the control box containing the two solenoids and wiring;it was $325! I paid only $400 for the whole set-up! I tried cleaning all the electrical connections, that leaves the two possibilities I mentioned above. Quadratec had a reasonable price for a direct replacement for a new REP 8000, but I decided to upgrade to the Patriot 8000 to have a series wound motor and line speeds comparable to the Warn.
I ordered the new winch on Tuesday, the new winch arrived Friday. This morning I took off the REP 8000 and installed the new Patriot 8000 model. Big difference in weight. It was a little bit of a chore wrestling with the heavier winch. I had to remove the mounting plate (the REP and Patriot use the same mounting plate)to conveniently install the roller fairlead and new winch to the mounting plate. I like the way the electrical controls are integrated into the winch housing. Also, the winch came with just the right lengths of electrical cable to easily reach my auxillary battery. Tomorrow morning, I'll finish connecting the cables to the battery. Should go fast tomorrow, the wire rope came already wound on the drum. I'm looking forward to taking a week off for camping in Utah's canyonlands at the end of the month. It will be comforting to know that I have a winch that I'll be confident will work properly if I need it!
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94 YJ, SOA, 2-1/2 Alcans, ARB-front, Detroit-Rear, 4.56:1 gears, Oasis Trailhead compressor, 4:1 Terra Lo, 37x12.50x15 SSR's, 8000 lb Ramsey, & etc.
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BigJim
Web Wheeler
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 7724
Loc: Central Texas
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We are all happy for ya! Would it be possible to switch electric connections to see if it is indeed the solonoid or not? Seems instsalling a makeshift solonoid should be rather basic stuff.
Big Jim 
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professional bovine relocation specialist
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Fred Blackstone
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 01/20/00
Posts: 1817
Loc: Higlands Ranch, CO
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 Thanks for the reality check, BigJim. Sorry, I meant to post this in the talk section. Good idea about switching electrical connections to determine which solenoid may not be working. There's no information/tags on solenoids, only information in manual is a blow-out diagram with Ramsey part number. I don't know enough about matching the solenoid to simply go out and replace the solenoid at this time. But, that is my plan and I suspect it can't be that difficult. I've kept the REP 8000 to repair and use on another Jeep or maybe sell. I've been thinking about upgrading the REP 8000 to a series wound motor since early winter last year when I first started having problems with the REP 8000.
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94 YJ, SOA, 2-1/2 Alcans, ARB-front, Detroit-Rear, 4.56:1 gears, Oasis Trailhead compressor, 4:1 Terra Lo, 37x12.50x15 SSR's, 8000 lb Ramsey, & etc.
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BobRowe
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 09/25/05
Posts: 1087
Loc: Southeast Michigan
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Fred,
I have Ramsey REP 8000 winches on my 1-ton Dodge truck and on my Jeep CJ-7. They have served me well for the past 12 years or so. However, I don't like the way that the solenoids and associated wiring in the control box are exposed to the elements (water during water crossings) because they're so low to the ground. So, on both vehicles, I have gutted the control box and installed the components on the inside of the fender high up in the engine compartment. The connector for the remote control cable is mounted on the front fender. This allows me to coat all of the connectors on the inside of the fender with "liquid electrical tape" to prevent corrosion.
For some reason, the solenoids don't like repeated dunking in water, whereas that doesn't seem to affect the winch itself.
--Bob
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1977 CJ-7, fiberglass body, AMC 360 w/ headers, DUI ignition, Edelbrock intake and Holley 4150 carb, TF999, Dana 300, 4.56 gears lockers, York air comp, 4" susp lift, 2" body lift, BFG 35" M-T tires, Megashifter, AGR pump & box, REP8000 winch.
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BigJim
Web Wheeler
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 7724
Loc: Central Texas
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Ahaaa! So Bob by doing that couldn't you use a common solonoid if one of the originals went out?
Big Jim
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professional bovine relocation specialist
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Fred Blackstone
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 01/20/00
Posts: 1817
Loc: Higlands Ranch, CO
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Quote:
Fred,
I have Ramsey REP 8000 winches on my 1-ton Dodge truck and on my Jeep CJ-7. They have served me well for the past 12 years or so. However, I don't like the way that the solenoids and associated wiring in the control box are exposed to the elements (water during water crossings) because they're so low to the ground. So, on both vehicles, I have gutted the control box and installed the components on the inside of the fender high up in the engine compartment. The connector for the remote control cable is mounted on the front fender. This allows me to coat all of the connectors on the inside of the fender with "liquid electrical tape" to prevent corrosion.
For some reason, the solenoids don't like repeated dunking in water, whereas that doesn't seem to affect the winch itself.
--Bob
Bob, My REP 8000 has served me well, too. I believe I installed it in 1995; it was my first upgrade to the 94 Jeep YJ. I put the winch through a lot over the past 10 years, especially during the first 8 years of use. It certainly did as well as The Warn winches used by my friends on their Jeeps. This was a major consideration when I upgraded the winch to the series wound Patriot winch.
I agree with you about the "open" solenoid control box on the REP 8000 and thought several times about applying some dielectric grease and waterproofing all the electric wire connections ... but never "got around to it"! You were smart to relocate the solenoids and waterproof the electric connections. My wires and connectors were considerably corroded.
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94 YJ, SOA, 2-1/2 Alcans, ARB-front, Detroit-Rear, 4.56:1 gears, Oasis Trailhead compressor, 4:1 Terra Lo, 37x12.50x15 SSR's, 8000 lb Ramsey, & etc.
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Fred Blackstone
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 01/20/00
Posts: 1817
Loc: Higlands Ranch, CO
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BigJim, I know very little about solenoids, all I know at this time is that the REP 8000 has two 12V solenoids; and the problem could be something as simple as a stuck solenoid, but jarring the solenoids did not do anything to get the solenoid working again. In the out mode, the solenoid makes a buzzing sound rather than the audible click when it's working correctly. Here in the near future, I'll check out the solenoids, and, I'll look into finding a local source for a similar solenoid.
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94 YJ, SOA, 2-1/2 Alcans, ARB-front, Detroit-Rear, 4.56:1 gears, Oasis Trailhead compressor, 4:1 Terra Lo, 37x12.50x15 SSR's, 8000 lb Ramsey, & etc.
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BigJim
Web Wheeler
Reged: 10/07/03
Posts: 7724
Loc: Central Texas
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Fred I have opened several and all were a magnet motor that sent a copper disk up against a single HUGE contact.. The idea seems to be the disk will spin around a little from time to time allowing another part of the disk to make contact with the contact.. As the disk becomes worn it does not pass the needed amps thru the corroded part in the contact area. A simple movement of the disk repaired all but one of the ones I took apart. THAT one I had to turn the disk upside down to get it to work.
I have not opened one that I was unable to repair.
However them times was many years ago and I have not opened one in a long time.
I betcha ANY solonoid for a 12v starter would work fine for a winch.. Just get a new one that would fit the area it is to be attached in.
Big Jim
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professional bovine relocation specialist
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JeePete
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 03/27/04
Posts: 2398
Loc: Mississippi
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A regular starter solenoid will not work, at least not wired like the original control box on a permanent magnet winch motor. Most starter solenoids have only one cable involved, the positive. The winch solenoids in question have two sets of contacts, + and -. One side is contacted with the solenoid on, the other is contacted with the solenoid off. the two solenoids have to reverse the polarity of the cables at the motor for forward and reverse control with these permanent magnet motors. 
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Freedom Off Road
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BobRowe
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 09/25/05
Posts: 1087
Loc: Southeast Michigan
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Big Jim,
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "common solenoid". If by that term, you mean something like a starter solenoid, then no, those won't work.
The solenoids typically used for winch control (particularly those used by Ramsey winch, but I suspect by most winch manufacturers) differ in one important point from the typical starter solenoid.
The starter solenoid only has ONE set of high-current contacts. Those contacts are normally open (NO) when no voltage is applied to the low-current solenoid coil contact. The contacts are then shorted together when voltage is applied to the solenoid coil contact.
On the other hand, the solenoids used for winch control have TWO sets of high-current contacts. One set of contacts is NO and the other set is normally closed (NC) when no current is flowing in the solenoid coil.
In a sinch control system like Ramsey's, the NC contacts of each solenoid have chassis ground on one contact, and a wire to one of the input connectors of the winch motor connected to the other NC contact. Thus, with neither solenoid activated, chassis ground is applied to both connectors on the winch motor, and it doesn't rotate.
The NO contacts of each solenoid have battery positive 12 volts applied to one contact, and a wire going to the winch motor connected to the other NO contact. With neither solenoid activated, 12 volts is NOT applied to either connector on the winch motor.
When low-current 12-volts through the remote control cable (by, say, pushing the "In" button), is applied to one solenoid, that solenoid energizes. The NC contacts of that solenoid now open, removing the chassis ground from one side of the winch motor. The NO contacts of that solenoid now close, placing 12 volts from the battery on that same side of the winch nmotor. The winch, now having 12 volts on one side of the motor and chassis ground on the other side of the motor (because the other solenoid is still not activated) now turn in the direction required to reel in the wire rope. When you let go of the "In" button, the winch once again has chassis ground on both sides of the motor, and winch rotation stops.
If the "Out" button on the remote control is pushed, the other solenoid activates. That places battery 12 volts on the other side of the winch motor and it turns in the opposite direction, letting the wire rope play out.
The switch on the remote control is designed such that low-current 12 volts CANNOT be placed on both solenoid coils at the same time. Unless, of course, the switch, the cable, the connector, or the control wiring shorts.
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1977 CJ-7, fiberglass body, AMC 360 w/ headers, DUI ignition, Edelbrock intake and Holley 4150 carb, TF999, Dana 300, 4.56 gears lockers, York air comp, 4" susp lift, 2" body lift, BFG 35" M-T tires, Megashifter, AGR pump & box, REP8000 winch.
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