Anonymous
Unregistered
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I've done a search on this, and I think I'm on the right track...just want to get some input from the experts.
My '98 Monty has intermittent starter problems. Battery is a relatively new Optima, and the voltmeter shows >12. When I try to start (sometims) I get a click and no crank. Happened the other day and I tried a few times, rested 30 sec or so, then it started up. Worked for a couple of more starts, now it just clicks.
From what I read, it sounds like the solenoid. Does this make sense? My Monty has had a chronic oil leak from the right valve cover (just a seep) -- is it possible the oil has dripped on the starter/solenoid and caused the problem?
Any tips/tricks in replacing the solenoid?
Thanks for your help!
John
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10224
Loc: Columbia, SC
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I'm no expert and not familiar with your model year, but if you see 12v at the starter solenoid switch lead (small trigger wire) when the key switch is turned to START, it sounds like the solenoid switch is bad. Before you buy a new one, you might try removing the starter and solenoid connections, clean everything well and reinstall - remove the battery (-) connection first so you don't accidentally weld something. If that doesn't work, remove the starter and replace the solenoid switch - if you run into more trouble, take the starter to an auto electric shop for a check.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Frank,
Thanks for the info. Is it possible to remove the solenoid without removing the starter? I've read on this site that the starter can be a real bear. I'll try cleaning everything up first.
Thanks,
John
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10224
Loc: Columbia, SC
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I don't know. Maybe someone else knows how it's attached to the starter on your model. If it's like mine, the heat shield is in the way and once the heat shield is removed, starter removal is complete.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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52degrees
Forum Moderator
Reged: 10/19/04
Posts: 6330
Loc: In the beer cooler
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Before you go pulling anything apart, make sure that there is a good positive connection from the battery to the starter. You will need to do a voltage drop test to find this out.
Connect one test lead from your DVOM to the positive terminal on the battery, and the other test lead to the battery connection at the starter. Have an assistant attempt to crank the engine. You should see less than 1 volt across the battery cable. Any more than that and you need to look for a battery cable/connection problem that needs to be addresses before you start throwing starters at it.
Clay
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1990 Montero RS (In pieces... for now)
KG6VNX
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10224
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Good idea, Clay - thanks for the reminder - we have so many solenoid problems, it's easy to assume that's what it is.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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All,
Okay, first I'd like to say thanks for all your insight. I usually have the good sense to consult these boards before I start trying to fix the Mitsu, and I'm glad I did it this time. I did a thorough cleaning of the battery terminals and it fired right up. At first glance, everything looked okay. Relatively new battery, terminals mostly clean...it seemed like I needed to dig deeper. But the simple solution was the right solution in this case (and the cheap one!).
Thanks again,
John 
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