matts
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 01/04/02
Posts: 1611
Loc: S.E. Wisconsin
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What's the maximum, tractable, user friendly, minimaal fuss amount of power you can get out of a 22RTE (factory turbo motor) with the stock ECU, assuming a turbo upgrade, intercooler and exhaust. -- Matt
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'89 4runner SR5, 3.0, auto (fun)
'93 xtra cab, dlx,3.0, 5spd (work truck)
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mosk
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 02/11/00
Posts: 1059
Loc: Belmont, CA, USA
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The stock ECU gets unpredictable above 180hp, but even getting to that level is a challenge without bigger injectors, and that can be a tuning nightmare on thismotor unless you're careful and savvy. 160 rwhp is a better "minimal fuss" goal.
My suggestions:
1. Start with a 3" exhaust (full 3" if using a T3 or T3/T4, or a 2.5" downpipe on the stock CT20, followed by a a full 3" exhaust).
2. Add an intercooler and BOV (which should be plumbed back into the pre-turbo piping).
3. Get some 400 cc/min injectors, and a 1982 Supra AFM. Bigger injectors aren't better, and will only make things harder to tune.
4. Get a wideband O2 sensor and a pyrometer.
5. Limit yourself to 12 psi of boost.
6. Tune with an eye towards longevity, not maximum performance.
Assuming a good headgasket and ARP studs, the above pieces should get you 160-180hp on an otherwise stock motor without putting too much at risk, assuming proper tuning. If you hit fuel cut, back off the boost by 1-2 psi (or invest in an SMT6 and do the fuel cut mod, so you can tune around the timing issues associated with it.
-Jeff
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Jeff Moskovitz
1986 turbo 4X4 truck
1998 2.7L/M5 4X4 4Runner
Jeff's 22R-TE page
22RTE Turbo Truck Forum (advertising free)
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DirtyHarry
Toyota Moderator
Reged: 11/15/00
Posts: 4192
Loc: Rapid City/Albuquerque/Reno
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I think with the TEC turbo kit you can expect around 200 hp. I think that the fuel cut and injectors start to become an issue after that.
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Harry Wagner
Harry Situations
4x4Wire's Toyota Section
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mosk
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 02/11/00
Posts: 1059
Loc: Belmont, CA, USA
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Harry,
Not to be disagreeable, but I don't think the TEC kit will net you that much power, as it still uses the stock injectors and ECU, and raises boost to 9 psi or so. (FWIW, the TEC kit has received mixed reviews on the RTE mailing list...) The stock RTE makes 136 hp at the crank @ 6 psi. The TEC kit may make 160-ish hp at the crank, due in equal parts to a somewhat bigger/better turbo, much bigger downpipe, and 50% more boost. Getting 160-180 hp at the rear wheels requires a bigger exhaust and bigger injectors. In the original HKS literature, they claimed 190 hp with all of their RTE mods (FCON, injector upgrade, exhaust, and intercooler), but it was unclear if they meant rear wheel or crank hp.
Unfortunately, there's little in the way of actual dyno numbers posted on this motor. I have numbers for my motor, but it's a pretty extreme example, and even then, the $$$-to-hp numbers are pretty outrageous; I don't recommend that anyone follow my lead on this motor unless you have more money than sense  . The last time I checked, TEC wasn't forthcoming with actual numbers for their kit. But (and you don't need me to tell you this) the stock ECU gets very flaky above 180 hp or so, even with the larger AFM. I know people that have made almost 220 rwhp on the stock turbo and stock ECU by doing the fuel cut mod and running 25-plus psi of boost, but the motor always fails shortly after reaching this level of power on stock parts. Anything above 180 rwhp on a stock ECU is very, very dicey. 160-180 rwhp is an attainable goal, and as long as the exhaust is big enough, the stock ECU will tolerate this with 400 cc/min injectors and a larger AFM.
-Jeff
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
The stock ECU gets unpredictable above 180hp, but even getting to that level is a challenge without bigger injectors, and that can be a tuning nightmare on thismotor unless you're careful and savvy. 160 rwhp is a better "minimal fuss" goal.
My suggestions:
1. Start with a 3" exhaust (full 3" if using a T3 or T3/T4, or a 2.5" downpipe on the stock CT20, followed by a a full 3" exhaust).
2. Add an intercooler and BOV (which should be plumbed back into the pre-turbo piping).
3. Get some 400 cc/min injectors, and a 1982 Supra AFM. Bigger injectors aren't better, and will only make things harder to tune.
4. Get a wideband O2 sensor and a pyrometer.
5. Limit yourself to 12 psi of boost.
6. Tune with an eye towards longevity, not maximum performance.
Assuming a good headgasket and ARP studs, the above pieces should get you 160-180hp on an otherwise stock motor without putting too much at risk, assuming proper tuning. If you hit fuel cut, back off the boost by 1-2 psi (or invest in an SMT6 and do the fuel cut mod, so you can tune around the timing issues associated with it.
-Jeff
this is actually what I'm doing right now.
I just dropped the crank in my 22rte block last night and hope to have the pistons in it some time next week.
I've been collectinng parts for this swap for some time, and I have the 5mge supra AFM and a top mount intercooler from a 7mgte. head bolts and rod bolts are ARP items. the pos ct-20 got ditched and I made an adapter to mount a chrysler flange T-3 turbo to the stock manifold. the T-3 got shipped to a rebuilder who's gonna put a small-ish T-4 turbine housing on it and balance the assembly. when all is said and done, it'll get a 3" exhaust all the way back.
still not sure what I'm gonna do about injectors.
my plan is to set the beast for 8psi and get it functional before adding things like supra injectors, the bigger AFM, and the intercooler/BOV.
Edited by Sundowner (07/27/05 07:14 AM)
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DirtyHarry
Toyota Moderator
Reged: 11/15/00
Posts: 4192
Loc: Rapid City/Albuquerque/Reno
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Quote:
my plan is to set the beast for 8psi and get it functional before adding things like supra injectors, the bigger AFM, and the intercooler/BOV.
This is a very good idea. As Jeff alluded to, I am having big problems trying to tune my motor with the stock ECU trying to control very far from stock equipment. Changing things in small increments is a wise way to go.
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Harry Wagner
Harry Situations
4x4Wire's Toyota Section
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