sege
Wheeler
Reged: 09/28/01
Posts: 169
Loc: Beaverton, OR
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Finally got sick of my 'Runner cutting out on me. Took the upper intake off and BOY! All the black crud in the runners! Anyways, I found previously by squeezing the harness where it goes into the intake manifold "gap", I could get the truck to run on a couple of cylinders, eventually cutting out and dying. This has been ongoing for the past couple of months, and it seemed to have precipitated after a friend cleaned my motor with some potent red colored degreaser. Coincidence?
I haven't opened up the harness yet, but I'm curious as to how to redo the wiring from the 4 to 2 junction. Without any pictures, I'm kinda clueless. I found this thread http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11&Number=731435&Forum and it was helpful, but does anyone have actual pictures of this repair being done?
I basically want to know if I should use butt connectors and what type of wire to use when splicing. Kinda paranoid about screwing things up, as I have this propensity to break other stuff while doing repairs  . Will be using shrink wrap over all splices and .062 rosin core solder. What kind of electrical tape will hold up best to the heat and the elements? I saw some rubber tape with mastic adhesive at Lowe's, maybe that'd work in conjuction with electrical tape over it???
Now back to work - gonna get the fuel rail off so I can send the injectors out for a clean and balancing...
Edited by sege (06/20/05 11:53 PM)
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mudking82
Wheeler
Reged: 06/04/05
Posts: 217
Loc: SoCal
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Don't use butt connectors. Definetly solder the connection, then heat shrink it. Don't know what is over the wires you have now, but without seeing them, I would probably just give them a real good wrap of electrical tape, and then put some plastic flex loom over them to protect them from rubbing, and helps a little with heat.
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4Crawler
Toyota 4-Wheeling Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/12/00
Posts: 12144
Loc: N. California. USA
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I've used some self-fusing silicone tape on my heavy battery cable connections. Its a bit expensive, but seems to work very well. It is a soft, stretchy tape, kind of a semi-cured silicone material. You stretch it as you wrap it around the wires and within a day or so, it shrinks tight and fuses to the wires. Kind of like heat shrink tape, but no heat is needed and it is quite temperature reistant.
Google search results for self-fusing tape...
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r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad - 4x4Wire discount code
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Wildcat_4R
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 04/07/05
Posts: 58
Loc: Tucson, AZ
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When I redid my wire splices I just twisted them together and soldered them. The butt connectors that Toyota put on there in the first place didn't seem like the best option. Covered all the connections w/ shrink wrap. While you're in there you might as well check the other two connections where the power wires for the injectors split.
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1987 4-Runner with a "slightly modified" 22RE
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Wildcat_4R
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 04/07/05
Posts: 58
Loc: Tucson, AZ
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As for sending your injectors out, I would not recommend Cruzin Performance. When I threw my "clean" injectors back in after the rebuild only 1 of the 4 were actually working. I am sure that other people on here have other places to recommend.
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1987 4-Runner with a "slightly modified" 22RE
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sege
Wheeler
Reged: 09/28/01
Posts: 169
Loc: Beaverton, OR
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Thanks for the replies guys! 
That self fusing tape sounds like the ticket! Now I gotta find some here in Portland...
Wildcat, so you actually removed the butt connectors and resoldered the remaining wire, or did you add a small length of wire to compensate for the missing connector? I'm gonna tear into the harness tonight and see what's up... And as far as my injectors, I sent them to WitchHunter Performance in Bothell, WA. $12/piece + $10 Priority return - half the price of anyone local to me. I talked to the owner Gordon, and he was really cool. So, we'll see how my injectors come back - I've heard only good things about this guy's work, and I've already got a good impression just talking to him. Oh, and I haven't removed the fuel rail from the engine compartment yet. Do I need to remove it in order to reinstall the injectors into the rail? Them injectors were a bear to pull out of the rail!
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sege
Wheeler
Reged: 09/28/01
Posts: 169
Loc: Beaverton, OR
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**UPDATE**
So I tore into the harness, and I looked and looked... I wondered if I was cockeyed cuz I wasn't seeing the splices. I found 'em about a foot away from where I started. The yellow splice looked fine. The blue, however, fell apart when I took off the tape that was covering it! I still need to find the white and white/red ground wire splices further up the harness. Anyone know if I'll find them in the plastic wire loom, or if they're just behind the blue/yellow splices?
Enough for tonight. I'll try to get some pictures up later.
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Wildcat_4R
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 04/07/05
Posts: 58
Loc: Tucson, AZ
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I found the ground wire splice about 12" down from the #1 injector plug. For the connections I just cut out the corroded pieces and soldered the wires together. I didn't have to cut out much wire so I didn't see a need to add any new wire. If you do cut out a lot of the old stuff, just make sure the new wire is the same gauge.
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1987 4-Runner with a "slightly modified" 22RE
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sege
Wheeler
Reged: 09/28/01
Posts: 169
Loc: Beaverton, OR
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Ha ha! Yeah, I found the splice after starting all the way by injector #3 and worked my way towards the battery  . I cut out about an inch and a half of the blue wire so I replaced it with a larger gauge wire that I soldered in. Checked the rest of the splices in the loom while I had the chance and the rest looked good, so I just added some solder to the splices, just in case. Now I gotta put everything back together - need some crush washers for the fuel rail and I'm good to go.
What's a good photo storage site that'll allow remote linking? I can't get my webshots pics to work...
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sege
Wheeler
Reged: 09/28/01
Posts: 169
Loc: Beaverton, OR
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Finally got everything all buttoned back up! And after going over every bolt and connector a million times, I cranked the starter for about 10 seconds and she fired up. Oh man, talk about relief!!! Anytime I work on my truck, I usually have to go back a second time to tighten this or readjust that cuz I'm absentminded like that! She idles real nice, and runs pretty smooth - quite a difference from its prerepair state. Cheers to y'all who gave helpful advice and directions!!!
Now if I can just get it through DEQ next month... 
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