Anonymous
Unregistered
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Getting a noticable amount of movement on my 97 Trooper. Had a front-end shop check it out but they didn't think it was an excessive amount yet they couldn't explain why the steering is numb feeling. You constantly have to correct to stay in your lane. I'm sure its the bearings causing it as all the front-end suspension parts are nice and tight. Having never replaced the bearings on the front I'd like a few suggestions and possibly part #'s before I start. Or if you think it could be something other than the bearings.
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Starchild
Rock Warrior
Reged: 02/28/04
Posts: 965
Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL
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Here is a good write-up on the front bearing repack, how to
The only other thing I would check is the upper control arm bushings. They will cause wheel play similar to bad bearings if they are worn.
HIH,
 Andre
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"SERENITY NOW!"
1995 Passport - TH700R4 - Twin-sticked Dana300 w/tera 4:1 - Leaf sprung SAS w/Dana 60/14BFF - 38.5x11 Boggers - DOR bumper w/ MM SE9500
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isuzu95
Mudrunner
Reged: 07/18/01
Posts: 342
Loc: U. S. A.
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The article that Andre referred to might help with the actual work - repacking bearings.
To check your bearing tension, elevate the front of the vehicle with a good 3-4 ton hydraulic jack, then place jack stands in the appropriate spots and lower the vehicle on to the jack stands.
You're going to do what some refer to as the "6 o'oclock-12o'clock" test.
Be sure the jack stands are in place and the vehicle is resting securely on them before proceeding.
Place one hand under the tire at the bottom(6 o'oclock) and one on top of the tire(12 o'clock) and start rocking back and forth between 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock. If you feel much slop at all, the bearing(s) are loose.
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Mike Murrell
'95 Rodeo - 3.2 liter - 2WD - Automatic
'04 Tacoma - 4 banger - Automatic
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1jackleg
Wheeler
Reged: 05/22/05
Posts: 207
Loc: Oconee South Carolina
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I am doing new wheel bearings in my truck now. I had substantial play int he driver side wheel. Instead of repacking, I purchased new bearings and seals to do both sides.
You should invest in a spring scale. Hook the scall to one of teh studs and pull. Notice the #'s of pull to spin the rotor. Reference a Haynes or shop manual for proper #'s of pull required. I would suggest loc-tite on the small lock nut bolts and hub bolts.
Hope this helps some - JL
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I ain't real bright...
1990 Trooper LS, V6, Auto, 4door
132,000 miles 11/26/09
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Thanks guys. I appreciate the replies and information.
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Smiley
Trail Leader
Reged: 12/12/01
Posts: 5911
Loc: Back in BFE, WV
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I’ve been experiencing a similar problem for a while now, and so far I’ve had miserable luck in locating the source of the problem…
Anyway, here’s one more possible cause for the squirrelly handling…
Bad Ball Joint(s)
According to Rubo on the phone last night, the “6-o’clock / 12-o’clock Test” that I performed on mine yesterday afternoon wasn’t quite enough to determine if they’re bad or not… Apparently there’s one more step:
After checking the Bearings as noted above (and again, making bloody certain that the vehicle is securely sitting on the jack stands) – Place the jack directly under the lower Ball Joint and jack-up the A-arm, working against the suspension droop until everything stops moving upward (but just before that side of the vehicle actually rises off of the jack stand)… Then perform the same “6 / 12 Test” as before.
The way that Rubo explained it, the A-arms need to be in-or-above their usual ‘at-rest’ position in order for you to tell if the Ball Joints are beginning to go out on you… With the suspension hanging down at full drop, the angle at which they are sitting, and the resistance of the T-Bars both work together to obscure your ability to tell for sure.
Rubo added that if you can see any movement in the Ball Joints with the suspension at full drop, then they’re not just going out on you; they’re completely shot to  < his place of residence (and a major danger to your wellbeing!)
Using his instructions, I’ll be checking mine again later this afternoon.
HTH --- Good luck on pinning-down whatever’s wrong with yours! 
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My CarDomain Garage
`97 Rodeo
`99 VX (sold)
`98 SLX
`95 Trooper
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Tygger
Mudrunner
Reged: 06/25/03
Posts: 262
Loc: VA
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Is it a lot more work to repack a bearing vs just buying a new one?
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1997 Isuzu Rodeo S 4WD
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Starchild
Rock Warrior
Reged: 02/28/04
Posts: 965
Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL
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Quote:
Is it a lot more work to repack a bearing vs just buying a new one?
It's the same process if you're cleaning and re-packing the old bearings or installing new ones.
Andre
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"SERENITY NOW!"
1995 Passport - TH700R4 - Twin-sticked Dana300 w/tera 4:1 - Leaf sprung SAS w/Dana 60/14BFF - 38.5x11 Boggers - DOR bumper w/ MM SE9500
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RT1
Mudrunner
Reged: 01/27/04
Posts: 281
Loc: NJ
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In the column of oddball causes you might check any stabilizer bars tied to the control arms. I was rubbing the rubber off the inside tread of tire after tire. Each time I took it in, the shop blamed alignment; even though they did the alignment. After deciding to replace some squeeky ball joints I finally discovered the upper control arm bushings were shot. Then, to top it off, when I popped the lower ball joint I discovered the stabilizer bar that squares and braces the lower control arm with the frame had snapped off right at the bushing... I guess that's why it was pulling to the left... Anyway, I never saw it was broken until I yanked on the control arm so it's worth getting under there with a pry bar and making sure that things that seem to be tight and welded are actually still attached to something.
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'89 P'up, 2.6 I-Tec, 488,000 miles and done... gone to the great beyond
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mlclark
Isuzu Moderator
Reged: 04/11/00
Posts: 7267
Loc: Ventura County
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In the column of oddball causes you might check any stabilizer bars tied to the control arms.
It would be in the really really oddball column, as there are no stabilizer bars on Isuzu IFS after the major suspension change in 87/88.
Michael
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