Anonymous
Unregistered
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I pulled the left rear drum off while rotating my tires and the axle seal is leaking.
Do you have to press bearings off the axle to replace the seal?
How hard of a job is this?
Where is the vent for the rear end? I wanted to see if it's clogged.
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kewlynx
Toyota & Classifieds Moderator
Reged: 10/06/02
Posts: 15756
Loc: Fairbanks, Alaska
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Don't know about the newer rigs, but replacing the rear seal is pretty straightforward. The breather should be on the differential; top part of the axle. I usually pick up 2 seals. If I haven't replaced one in awhile, I crimp one  Can hold my mouth better putting in the second one  Don't cost that much. Put a light coat of MP grease on them before you put them in.
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http://www.walkablecommunities.org/
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**ubi apis- ibi salus**
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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just had mine replace in my 98 tacoma
same left side and it was a PITA
the diff breather should be on the driver side on top of the axle
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/rear_axle/wheel_bearing/
thats the writeup that made me decide to send it to a trusted local shop and also being a monday night when i found out mine was leaking
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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This just happened to me as well, the driver side also. If you go to your dealer, plan on paying $400+.
I got my truck up on jack stands and replaced the rear driver side inner seal ($4) and O ring ($3) Toyota parts. The bearing and outer seals seemed to be ok.
My rear brakes did have some oil on them and I cleaned everything up real good with brake cleaner and simple green spray. That simple green in the aresol can works great! My brake shoes now look new, and I'm going to see how they hold up. Ebrake works just as good as it always has and I didn't feel I needed to replace the rear shoes.
While doing all this, I drained the rear diff and put in new Valvoline 80w90 gear oil. $3.63 a quart.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/zoomwindow.asp?PN=VV831
Total cost of fix? $15.
It felt good doing it myself. I just didn't feel comfortable going to my dealer. The master tech that used to do my work, doesn't work there anymore.
I will be doing much of everything else myself I think from now on.
Here is the inner seal removed.
How pretty.
On jackstands:
This link below is specifically for models with ABS, which makes a little difference, well, it's just a little trickier to get the inner seal out on models with abs.
http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/dcrim1_oilseal/dcrim1_oilseal.htm
It wasn't bad at all. I took my time and had a friend help me pull the axel out. I wanted to make sure I kept it real steady when pulling it out.
All the time as spent on cleaning up all the oil soaked stuff, wheel, drums, etc.
Some other tips that worked great.
Make a note of these:
1) "I did find out if you put the new axle seal in the freezer for about 10 minutes, it shrinks just enough to easly slide back in the place of the old one. The seals are very hard to fit back in if you dont do this and they have to go in perfect or you might damage it."
by Jataga
2) "You'll need to bleed the wheel cylinder on that side. That's probably my least favorite part of the job.
You can try gravity bleeding it by just leaving the bleeder screw open and draining into a cup while keeping an eye on the master cyl. to make sure it doesn't run dry. It doesn't drain very fast, but keep an eye on it.
Gravity bleeding usually works, but if not you can have your friend step on the brake pedal an hold it, while you crack open the bleeder to let the pressure out, then close the bleeder, and have your friend let back off the brake. A few cycles of that after gravity bleeding should do the trick.
Don't let the master cylinder run dry and don't let your buddy let off the brake while you have the bleeder open. Either one will introduce more air into the system instead of get it out.
If you're going to be working on your (or a buddies) truck and bleeding/flushing brakes, buy a motive products power bleeder. Its worth it."
by Erik
3) Buy some rubber vacuum caps from Advance auto to plug your brake line after you disconnect it.
7/32in. part # 47392, about $2.
I just had a a friend bleed it at the back when I stepped on the brake pedal. This whole process for the bleeding took 1 min exact, very easy with two people.
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Thanks for the responses, doesn't look like fun.
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jataga
Rock Warrior
Reged: 06/13/02
Posts: 557
Loc: Atlanta, GA
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Replacing the SEAL really isn't that big of a deal to do. I have had to do mine 3 times since I’ve had my 4Runner and it can be done in less than an hour. If you have to remove the bearings, I would remove the axle and bring it to a shop and have them remove the old bearing and install the new.
Off the top of my head, this is what i did:
Put the new seal in the freezer to shrink it.
Jack up the rear wheel with the broken seal about 8" - this way the diff. oil does not drain out all over the place.
Take the wheel off
remove the brake line and cap it off so it doesn't leak.
remove the emergency brake cable
remove the ABS sensor (this will allow the new seal to be installed easier)
unbolt 4 bolts holding the axle in
slide the axle out
remove the old seal
get the new seal out of the freezer
install the new seal 
gently slide the axle back into place making sure not to damage the new seal.
put everything back together.
Why pay someone $300 or more when you can do it for less than $10? Even if you didn't have the tools, you could buy a 150 piece mechanics tool set from sears, a floor jack from home depot, diff oil, brake fluid, seal remover, and you would still come out ahead!
Read the write-ups on this and you will see it really isn't hard at all.
-John
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99 Limited 4Runner 4WD
ARB front Bumper Kennesaw rear bumper
WARN 9500 Winch
Hella 4000s
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