Anonymous
Unregistered
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Hi,
I tried to do a search on edmunds but I guess the car is to old. When are the following suppose to be replaced? timing belt, brakes, and anything else? the reason I ask is because today Im going for a test drive on the car and it has 102k miles. so if I like the car, I will see what things the owner did during maintenace and what still needs to be done. thanks for the help. i hope all goes well.
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DougB
Roll Me Over
Reged: 11/08/02
Posts: 4123
Loc: Terre Haute, IN
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Timing belt at 60k, brakes whenever they're worn out.
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LOST ARK
'89 Raider 3.0L V6 (6G72) w/ AW372L (A44DL) A/T
"The Millennium Falcon of automobiles"
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pmontero
Roll Me Over
Reged: 07/12/01
Posts: 3167
Loc: Peachtree City, GA USA
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timing belt/water pump: you should replace the timing belt every 60k miles. If you don't have a record of the previous owner replacing the belt, do it. Replace the water pump with a *new* one every 60k when you do the timing belt. It'll cost @$6-700 to take it somewhere or around $100 in parts if you do it yourself.
brakes: change the pads/shoes and turn the rotors when they start to screech when stopping. Also, if you have jackstands/jack, you can pull off the wheels and check the pad thickness through a hole in the caliper. Brake life is highly variable depending on driving style/conditions, but if you haven't changed them in 30k miles, I would get them checked or check them yourself. Chances are they are close to wearing out. Also, if your emergency brake has a lot of play in the handle, it's probably time for shoes in the rear and turning of the drums.
Change your oil every 3k miles and grease all 23 zerk fittings in the suspension when you change the oil. Rotate your tires every other oil change (6k miles)
Change your transmission, transfer case, front/rear diff oils every 30k miles and after deep water crossings.
Lift the front end on jackstands and inspect the suspension. Check wheels for side to side wobble. If you have some you may need to rebuild your idler arm and/or replace ball joints. Look for broken or missing bushings, shock bushings/bolts. Check for uneven wear patterns on the tires. This could be an indicator of suspension problems or just improper alignment.
Check your brake fluid in the reservoir. If it looks like Coca-cola you need to flush the system. It should look like Ginger Ale.
Check your power steering fluid condition at reservoir. If it isn't bright red, change it. (make sure you use Dexron II/III or equivalent transmission oil)
Check your cooling system. It should be flushed every two years. I would just plan on flushing it now and changing the thermostat and gasket. Better safe than sorry. Improper cooling system maintenance is what usually kills most of these Gen I trucks. If the upper and lower radiator hoses have a honeycomb pattern on them, change them when you do the thermostat.
Remember to warm up the truck when test driving it. Once it is warm, leave it running, put it in park, put on the emergency brake and walk to the rear of the vehicle. If you are getting whitish/bluish smoke, expect to do the valve stem seals soon. (even sooner if you have emissions requirements in your community. smoking trucks will usually fail) plan on $1000 to have the valve job done or less than $100 in parts if you do it yourself. I just posted a howto on this service)
That should keep you busy for awhile!! 
Have fun and remember that you will be better off learning to service the car yourself when you buy a 14+ year old vehicle. All of the information and resources are on this site to help you. Otherwise, an older vehicle will nickel and dime you to death.
Powell
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'87 Montero Diesel
'98 Porsche Boxster Electric
and more...
Greasology
NotPetroleum
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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big thanks to you guys! alot of info!
if the owner cant provide any info about the timing belt change, should I assume that it was changed at 60k miles and wait until I hit around 120k on the car? also, how long should I keep the car running before checking out the exhaust smoke? if there is something wrong, will the smoke be visible as soon as the car is started? thx again.
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Mitch
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/12/00
Posts: 2812
Loc: ...Oologah...
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Quote:
grease all 23 zerk fittings in the suspension when you change the oil.
Uh oh...I thought there were 17  I've got 6 zerks out there screaming for a drink 
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89 Mitsubishi 2dr. V6, winch, Snorkle w/FF boot, Aisin's, sway bar discos, 15x8 rockcrawlers, 33X12.5 BFG MT's, KV85's, Snorkle install
94 Toyota x-cab, V6, 2.5 lift, 33x10.5 BFG's
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DougB
Roll Me Over
Reged: 11/08/02
Posts: 4123
Loc: Terre Haute, IN
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I've only got 17 zerks on mine too (SWB). That must be a mod that Powell did.
2 1/ea. upper ball joint
2 1/ea. lower ball joint
4 2/ea. upper control arm
2 1/ea. tie rod end
3 other steering linkage
2 rear axle U-joints
2 front axle U-joints
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17 Total
Somebody check my math?
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LOST ARK
'89 Raider 3.0L V6 (6G72) w/ AW372L (A44DL) A/T
"The Millennium Falcon of automobiles"
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pmontero
Roll Me Over
Reged: 07/12/01
Posts: 3167
Loc: Peachtree City, GA USA
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Sorry, I'm getting old so I was counting the zerks I put in my joints to keep things moving. I grease them when I do the Monty... 
Powell
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'87 Montero Diesel
'98 Porsche Boxster Electric
and more...
Greasology
NotPetroleum
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pmontero
Roll Me Over
Reged: 07/12/01
Posts: 3167
Loc: Peachtree City, GA USA
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On the timing belt, that's up to you on whether to wait on replacement. If it didn't get replaced, you will be taking the risk that the truck was driven hard and the belt breaks. Or it could last without a problem. If it were me, I'd replace it now with a Mitsu belt and then let it go to 180k.
Powell
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'87 Montero Diesel
'98 Porsche Boxster Electric
and more...
Greasology
NotPetroleum
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MontyMcV
Trail Leader
Reged: 06/04/03
Posts: 7069
Loc: Cleve-burg OH USA
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And don't forget the water pump, and consider the seals while you're in there too.
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Big Truck 2: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 94k, stock for now
Big Truck 1: 95, MT, >Gone<
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 29k miles!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
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off-roader
Mitsubishi Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/16/00
Posts: 15556
Loc: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
On the timing belt, that's up to you on whether to wait on replacement. If it didn't get replaced, you will be taking the risk that the truck was driven hard and the belt breaks. Or it could last without a problem. If it were me, I'd replace it now with a Mitsu belt and then let it go to 180k.
Powell
Powell,
Just some additional info on the timing belts....
Now I'm not 100% sure about this (perhaps someone will have more information) but I read somewhere that the rigs sold in CA are rated for 100K between timing belt changes.
Unless CA belts are different from the belts sold in the rest of the US, then you can surely go 80-100K w/out a problem as that's what the CA Monty's are rated for (gotta like them tougher state vehicle regulations).
Just a thought and anything to not have to do that job again so soon.
Ray
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Off Roader
96SR (3.15:1 xcase, 35's), 89 V6 SWB (33's)
96SR Build Up Thread
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