Bansil
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 04/02/03
Posts: 1994
Loc: Under my wifes RODEO in EastTN
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My first attempt at a write up.
1998 Rodeo v-6 Auto
I used a lift it was easier to position Rodeo where I needed
it.
Disconnect Battery
With Rodeo lifted up:
1)Rear bumper-Remove rear bumper,2 bolts on each frame horn
and remove mud flaps leave plastic "bolts" in place(inside wheel well).Pull bumper out of Frame.
2)Front bumper-Remove 2 bolts on each frame horn.Remove
1 bolt inside wheel well(it's obvius which one) pull
bumper up and out there are "safety" catches you need to clear.
Under Rodeo:
3)remove bolt inside frame rail that holds gas tank filler neck to frame,move along fillerneck and remove bolt that attaches neck to crossmember(from the top down).
4)remove 2 bolts that attach e-brake cables to body.
5)cut zip ties on wires that run up into cabin on drivers side about mid ways up frame.
6)replace vacumm lines (6) with longer lines.On drivers side
at firewall area they go between hard lines and junction block between frame/motor.
7)disconnect abs sensors at a-arms!!!!very important!!!
8)Remove skidplate
9)Lengthen Trannycooler lines about 6-8" longer not just 3"
need lenght to clear Fan!!(you will need to bend hard lines at Radiator down a very little to clear fan.(don't break lines)
10)Pull wireloom out of clips under radiator.
From on top at engine compartment.
11)reroute vacumm line from on top of brake booster to below
brake booster-line goes between engine and drivers corner
of firewall.
12)disconnect powersteering line from pump to reseivor,
and reroute "behind" the wire loom between cylinder head
and fender.
13)remove 2 bolts that bolt powersteering pump resivor
down let hang loose it will be bolted backup after lift.
14)remove plastic air intake tube between throttlebody
and air cleaner.
15)remove bolt/clamp that holds lower radiator hose to engine-replace after lift.
16)unplug wireharness's on passenger fender well between
engine/fender.
17)Pull wireloom out of clips under battery plate
18)pull all hard lines out of the clips that run from "aluminum" block(abs) down fenderwell and loop
backup to junction blocks.
19)Remove bolt that holds large a/c hard line to firewall.
20)Remove Radiator shroud, you will reuse top part.
From inner fender on drivers side remove steering shaft-2 bolts at top/bottom.Will have to modify to work use your best judgement.Some
say it will fit w/a couple washers/spcers mine didn't.
Inside vehicle
Remove T/C lever and modify per instructions
21) remove platic trim in back to access very small
holes on back corners where bolts go for back mount.You cannot
access them without making holes bigger---so use a 2 wrenches
from underneath and hold bolt with 1 and turn nut with 2 wrench.
loosen passengerside about 1/4 " and remove drivers side thru
little hole.
22)remove next bodybolt from under truck it is a bolt head it
screws into a "captured" nut in body,Leave passenger side loose.
23)open back door and pull up plastic/carpet and remove rubber plug in floor (above mount) same as before loosen passengerside and remove
driversside.
24)open front doors and pull up plastic/carpet to exspose rubber plug
remove and remove drivers side bolt and loosen passengerside.
25)move to front and loosen last bodymountbolt on drivers side(remove
nut)passengerside leave loose.Bolt will come out after body is up.
You removed drivers side bolts/nuts and passengerside are still in to
keep body from shifting.
26)Place wood etc. under floor pan becareful and distribute weight
correctly and lift body up and place large diameter block in the very
back and smaller blocks on the rest of the mounts.slip bolts thru
blocks and put nuts on do not tighten all the way yet.Work
from back to front.
27)I put front bolt(at radiator)up thru the bottom..I used Nylock nuts
thruout to keep from loosing the nuts/and keep bolts tight.
Repeat on passengerside becareful and straighten Brake lines aliitle if needed see step 18 they need alittle help but they will work.
Use a tape measure and line body up from side to side.wiggle blocks and make sure they are setted good...Tighten bolts/nuts.
Work backwards and secure/tighten everything you loosened and use
zip ties if needed to secure wire looms.
Notes:
1)You will have to undo the wire bundles to get enough slack
to hook abs sensors back up.
2)A/c line will not boltback up to firewall w/o a spacer/bracket.
3)The 12mm bolt that holds gas filler neck will bolt back up
to the crossmember w/o any mods,The bracket on the frame will
need to be lenghtened if reused.
4)E-brake cables will not bolt back up w/o a spacer being made.
5)Heater lines -no mods double check as lifting Passenger side.
6)Steering-modify to work good luck use your Brain!!!!!!!
Bumpers---I just kinda getto-ed it I will be modifing mine later.
But to get it out of the shop and on the road w/o getting a ticket
I did this.
1)Front Bumper-Place bumper back onto "plastic lead in spacers"
on both sides and flatten bracket (3/4" tab) against frame line up
bumper and weld along inside of frame.
2)Back bumper-I cut off about 1 1/2" of the bumper frame that slides
inside of the vehicle frame so when bumper lines up and on "plastic
lead in spacers" on the sides the bumper frame sit's on top of vehicle frame 3" higher.
Lined it up even and ran a bead of weld to connect the 2 "frames"
together.
I hope this helps someone in the future any ???? ask.
Doug
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98 Rodeo(hers)
00 Rodeo(his)
Lisa's Rodeo
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txsoulfly
Rock Warrior
Reged: 06/08/02
Posts: 583
Loc: Irving, TX
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 Thanks for the awesome write up. I know it will help me out a great deal when I finally find time to start my body lift. I was wondering though after reading Matt's body lift supplement what the heck is a ragjoint?  I went through my repair manual and could not find the name. Is there a proper name for it so that I can locate it in the manual and know where exactly to find it underneath? Or maybe if you don't mind could you provide a pic of it?
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Mando
1998 Rodeo S 4x4 3.2, OME 913's, 2" coil spacers, Rancho 9000's
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Steve W
Rock Warrior
Reged: 12/27/99
Posts: 643
Loc: Littleton, CO USA
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I agree with the above. Awesome write up! You should put that on a permanent web server someplace.
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'94 HONDA Passport (very similar to the Rodeo -- too similar for mere coincidence!!!)
DOR lift, 3" Body lift, 33" BFG M/Ts, Receiver mounted winch, ARB rear air locker, Tera Flex Low, Garmin Emap GPS, FRS/CB radio, as many toys as I can find!
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randii
4x4Wire.com Managing Editor Emeritus
Reged: 08/02/99
Posts: 9030
Loc: Fair Oaks, CA USA
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Quote:
I agree with the above. Awesome write up! You should put that on a permanent web server someplace.
Hey, Steve.... you know sumthin' I don't? :p
4x4Wire archives are about as permanent as anythingg on the web...
Randii
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Randy Burleson
4x4Wire Managing Editor Emeritus
Mongrel Isuzu Amigo
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Bansil
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 04/02/03
Posts: 1994
Loc: Under my wifes RODEO in EastTN
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Thanks guys that was the best I could remember  
The rag joint is:
Look in the drivers fenderwell,you will see your steering
shaft.about 2/3 of the way down there is a rag joint it is a round piece of rubber about 3/8-1/2" thick it has 4 bolts/nuts that hold it together.If you take the bolts out
and pull shaft apart -2 pcs.This is what the writeup says
to do,put spacers/washers whatever between the rubber and
the metal pcs.and space it out.BUT!!! you'll notice that when you took it apart there is a "stud" with a rubber
bushing on it that slids inside of the pc. that connects to the steering wheel side of the shaft.That stud is only~1/2"
long so with washers in it it will flop everywere because
the shaft has 2 u-joints and now a third "flexable"joint.
So what i recommend and this is just my .02 is (insert disclaimer here)  connect steering shaft back
up to lower splines and hold up to where it should bolt
up at top,you'll notice the round shaft with the sides milled flat has a "notch" cut out of it for the bolt
to "catch" on. This joint has ~3/4" adjustment mine was
"maxed out" no more adjustment from factory.So I had to lenghthen my steering shaft 1" to put "notch"
back into the middle of adjustment I felt alot better doing
this than stacking washers/spacers.
I hope this helped and did'nt confuse you more.I wrote up
the steering mode w/pic under "HELP with steering.....98 Rodeo B/L'ed "
Thanks again
Doug
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98 Rodeo(hers)
00 Rodeo(his)
Lisa's Rodeo
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