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Originally posted by Ranchero7:
How noisy should 22re valves be? I just adjusted mine to .20mm intake/.30mm exhaust and it is noisier than before. The PO had them adjusted to about.18 intake/.27 exhaust.

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Originally posted by Chartdog:
If you followed FSM and rotated the engine only twice, setting 4 valves at a time, a few of them will be a tad off and can make extra noise. I have always done each cylined individually by setting each one at it's own TDC. This way you know that each valve is all the way closed and as loose as it can get. Then set to a "snug" 20/30 and your good to go.

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Could you explain that a little more? I don't understand how they could be a little off on the ones you adjust individually if the rocker arms are on the base circle of the cam. Maybe I'm missing something here, but I thought that was why the FSM procedure was the way it was-- so you could be on the base circle of the cam for those particular positions.

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Jeremy
SOLD:1988 Toyota 4x4 | 22RE | W56 | EB 270 cam

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Originally posted by Chartdog:
Brown,

I'll try but I am not sure I get it myself.....

When I got my first Toyota truck (1984 22R) I had the same question that Ranchero7 had. A friend of mine at the time was a Toyota Dealer mechanic and he suggested the method of setting each valve individualy. The theory was that this way each valve would be all the way closed because it would be at the flatest part of the cam. Using the 4 at a time method several valves are not at that true zero point and could have a slight lift.

To be honest with you, this always sounded like BS to me too but, IT WORKED. I always got noticably quieter valves and was reasured that each one was set properly and was not too tight.

P.S. I think I bunged up the explanation the first time. I set each VALVE separatly, rotating the engine 8 times, and watching the cam lobe for the valve I am doing until it is clearly at the lowest part of the lobe.

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Originally posted by Redtoy:
It's my understanding that they must be adjusted with the motor as warm as possible. This requires quick work, but supposed to make a difference.

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Absolutely! I usually drive it for awhile, and then let it idle while I loosen up as many things as I can so I can rip everything off and get busy with the valves. It's a little hot at first, but not unbearable.

I've seen other posts talking about adjusting both intake and exhaust valves to .010", instead of .008" intake and .012" exhaust. Anyone actually do this? What are your results?

redtoy, I just read your updated post. I think the idea of doing .007" intake and .011" exhaust with the engine warm is a good idea. I may have to try that next time. I just don't want to burn a valve like carterman mentioned.

The issue with the metric vs. standard feeler blades shouldn't matter too much. 3 microns and 5 microns respectively is not very much at all. There could be much more than that variation alone from the manufacturing tolerances or temperature of the feeler blade. 5 microns (.005 mm)= .0002 inches

[ 07 May 2002, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: Brown ]

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Jeremy
SOLD:1988 Toyota 4x4 | 22RE | W56 | EB 270 cam

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Originally posted by Redtoy:
It's my understanding that they must be adjusted with the motor as hot as possible. This requires quick work, but supposed to make a difference.

The following info is from a respected source on another Toyota forum:: The tune up tag under your hood says to do them hot at 8 and 12.

The underhood tag has metric specs of .200mm/.300mm and metric is the only system used in Japan.

But an American .008" feeler blade is not .200 mm thick it is .203 mm; i.e. thicker than .200

and an American .012" feeler blade is not .300 mm, it is .305 mm - again thicker.

So these thicker American feeler blades cause one to set the valve clearance wider than .200/.300. Worse yet, most people adjust valves with a warm engine instead of a hot engine. Valve clearances contract as the engine cools. Therefore this contracting effect causes mechanics to set the clearance looser still.

Setting to .007/.011 offsets the effect of the two sources of error mentioned above and engine power, engine noise and fuel economy is dramatically better at .007/.011
stiff sliding fit (hot engine) than at .008/.012 slight drag (warm engine)

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When I first did the valves on both my '87 and '86, they had been adjusted on the tight side by the P.O. Both had a miss at idle. I adjusted them to 8 & 12 but tight enough so I couldn't fit a 9 & 13 in without forcing it. Valves were noisier this way but it both trucks idled much smoother and seemed to run better overall. If you burn your hands doing the adjustment, you know it is hot enough I guess it is better than my old corolla, you had to adjust the valves on that with the motor running!!!

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Mike Carter
85 & 86 4Runners

My Website

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