Anonymous
Unregistered
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In an effort to achieve some additional wheel travel, I preloaded my torsion bars on my 88 2dr, and trimmed the bumpstops a little when I did this.
I noticed that my wheel travel did not increase as much as I expected, and found the front sway bar to be the culprit, so it got removed.
I tried an experiment, and completely eliminated the stop that limits droop. Worked like a charm, too, but it is kind of noisy when the front wheels fall in to the deeper holes. I should say was noisy, because I found what I think is a pretty good solution....
I cut some teflon sheet material, which I use as "skidplating" on my drift boat. This material is used to keep boats of this type from sticking on rocks when running rapids, and is availible where these types of boats are sold. I applied the material to the place where the bumpstops were, and no more wierd "oh my gosh this thing is beating itself up" noises as the suspension cycles. So far, it seems a good solution. I'll have to see how well the CV joints on the front end handle this mod, but I do not expect any problems. If I could just get this thing to idle.....
[ 26 April 2002, 10:19 AM: Message edited by: DougH ]
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Sounds like a solid fix. I had planned to Swiss cheese my bumpstops but might consider this instead. Keep us posted as you learn more. Also might consider adding a thin layer of high density rubber in the same spot like the idea for the skidplates. ------------------
1998 Montero Sport LS
33" Yoko Geolander MT on 15 x 8 Black D Spoke rock crawler rims
ARB Bumper with FET Landmaster 190 Twin Beam lights
Custom Rocker Guards(11 guage rectangular steel)
Custom Painted Skidplate(bright yellow)Reinforced diff skidplate
Surco Safari Rack(holds 33"Spare Yoko)
PIAA Super Plasma bulbs
Hella Air Horn(for cell phone drivers)
No sway bars
longer rear shackles(2" lift)
torsion bars turned up about 2.5"s
Rancho 9000 shocks
Rancho 5000 steering stabilizer
Superwinch Manuel Hubs
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Jerrold,That's a novel solution, though the teflon impregnated polyethylene sheeting sold for bow guards and such aren't a good shock absorber. I can't really think of much that you're hurting though, and realistically the suspension is probably rarely cycling to full droop at a free-fall slam rate unless you're in the habit of driving across holes with no caution. From your other post this doesn't seem the case. I'm curious what you used to get it to stick onto the bump stops? ------------------
DougM 1999 Monty, rear locker, muddies, Hellas, rear
suspension air bags,
3-way shocks, Hella twin
beam backup light, 2
broken crap original
mudflaps. 1993 FZJ80, Hellas, front
and rear lockers,
muddies, rear suspension
airbags, Hella twin beam
backup light
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Lloyd Swartz
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/16/00
Posts: 7740
Loc: Albuquerque NM US
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I think trimming them down and leaving 1" or so is best. I did 2 more then a year ago but never bothered on the others. Front locker has reduced my urgency for things like that. Hmmm, maybe I will hack the others off this weekend.
quote:
Originally posted by DougM:
Jerrold,That's a novel solution, though the teflon impregnated polyethylene sheeting sold for bow guards and such aren't a good shock absorber. I can't really think of much that you're hurting though, and realistically the suspension is probably rarely cycling to full droop at a free-fall slam rate unless you're in the habit of driving across holes with no caution. From your other post this doesn't seem the case. I'm curious what you used to get it to stick onto the bump stops?
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1996 SR From the Area 51 Skunk Works. 37"BFG Tires, 5" lift, Rock Track 4:1 Case, Tom Woods Drive Shafts, Oasis Air, Front ARB, lifted gas tank, T-max winch and lots of stuff that cost too much.
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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The material I used is affixed by cutting two rectangular slots in it, doing so in a manner that leaves the partially cut away material still affixed at one end, like a flap. You pull this little flap out of the way, insert the bolt that origionally held your bumpstops in place, tighten it, and let that flap just sort of lay over the head of the bolt. FYI, with my sway bar attached, there is not enough articulation to get contact, at least on my 88 2dr, but with that sway bar removed, one can manage to get some contact during droop, but not very often.
Since I do not have a locker in the front, every fraction of an inch of wheel droop helps keep the tires on the ground, thus helping to insure no loss of traction. If I had a locker, I wouldn't worry about it. But, with a still functional and hard "locking" limited slip in the rear, and open diff in front, I do worry about it. My SWB Trooper RS had a similar front end, and was also limited slip rear, and took me everywhere I wanted to go, and quite a few where I might have been happier walking! No doubt the Montero will do likewise.
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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I bought some generic low profile energy suspension bumpstops and put them in. Next is the locker. Aaron thinks I will pay $1300 for the locker and compressor after all is said and done (before install). About $800 US for the stuff and the install is unknown at this time. Is this about right for the locker?
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Augie
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 12/23/99
Posts: 2329
Loc: Ohio
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I found some urethane bumpstop with metric screw. They are 19 mm or 3/4" dia and 16 mm or 5/8" tall. Come with either M6X1.0 or M8X1.25 screw. Anybody know for sure which one will fit? I am ordering some and will let you know after I tried it. They are pretty pricey though. $6-7 each from Mc Master Carr.
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Augie the 8mm thread is the one that should fit if I am not mistaking. the 6mm would wobble in the lower seat. I also know my brothers Ford Festiva has the 6mm pitch on the bump stops.
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Augie
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 12/23/99
Posts: 2329
Loc: Ohio
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Thanks Gord.
I order both of them just in case. I am gonna use it for some other project at the office so if it does not work they still got their money worth 
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Augie, I wouldn't mind my boss paying for some of my parts but I might be getting a FM company radio which would be nice as they are expensive and I need one up here anyways.
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