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There was a slight difference in width between '80 and later and '79 and older, but the big thing there is that you need axles from '80 and newer becuase the front diff on these will be on the driver's side and the rear diff will be centered. There were some wide track FSJs in the '70s and the J-trucks were all wide. The '80 and up J-trucks are pretty rare, but these axles would be the ticket if you wanted to build a YJ that was wider than stock.

The vaccum disconnects were mostly in the early '80s, and they weren't in the long side tube like on a YJ or XJ. The vaccum disconnects were built into the diff on the driver's side. They are pretty easy to tell becuase the diff cover looks different from a regular Dana 44.

The front spring perches will need to be moved in by about 1/2" on each side. The passenger side is easy because you can cut off thee perch and reweld it. For the driver's side you'll need to weld the old spring centering pin hole shut (hint - drop a stub of a bolt in the hole and weld it to the casting rather than try to fill the entire hole with weld) and drill a new one, as well as do some grinding to make the U-bolts fit.

The rear is even easier, just move the spring perches.

The brake lines will all hook up. You'll want to go to the Wagoneer steering linkages. This means you'll need to put on a Wagoneer pitman arm and probably shorten the Wagoneer drag link. I'm usually working with high steer arms, so I don't know exactly how it will work if you are going spring under - except that it's easy to shorten the Wag steering pieces. The threads on the drag link are 7/8" fine thread, you can get a die from sears if you need cut it and re-thread. I've also gotten by with just cutting 1/2" from each part of the drag link and each end of the adjuster. If you go with high steer arms you'll need to shorten the tie rod too, same deal though, cut some off, grind it to size and use a 7/8" die to thread it.

If you aren't changing lift height, you'll normally need to shorten the rear drive shaft. Sometimes the front comes out pretty close, but usually it's a little off and ends up getting changed.

Let me know if you have any other questions about this swap.

You might want to check out this http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/projects/yjtransformation/ article too. It's a YJ with a Grand Wagoneer Dana 44 rear, and an F250 high pinion 44 front that was shortened to Grand Wagoneer width.

Take a look at this for info on the high steering arms http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/tech/steer/SOA/

http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/LloydC/Jeep.html

but in response to your question regarding TRACK width, I'd say the waggy axles are basically about 2 inches wider than stock. The spring perches are 1 inch wider, so you have to move each one in 1/2 inch (on the front, on the rear just cut em off and reweld them where appropriate), which I did in a slightly different manner than the ones noted in the above articles. But the axle itself is wider, so it will have a wider track width, all other things equal. The difference is minimal, though, but if it really matters to you I don't see any reason why you couldn't make it up with different offset wheels if you really wanted to, but personally I don't think the difference is going to be that noticable.

The F250 axle isn't that bad to cut down. If you've got a chop saw, a welder and a cheap angle finder you can do the job in a couple of hours. You're going to end up doing some grinding and welding on the Wagoneer axle too. To me, the real question is whether or not you want the high pinion on the F250 axle.

I've done a lot of welding with my Brother in Law's older Hobart handler 135 wire feed with gas. It's great for things like spring perches or anything else that you'd attach to the axle tubes. Most of the welding on Brian's YJ project was done with this welder. For the really heavy stuff I used to get out my 225 amp stick welder, but now I've got a Millermatic 210 to do the heavy mild steel jobs. Anyways, a good quality 110V wire feed with the capability if getting into the 135 to 150 amp range should be enough welder for you to perform a spring over. If you decide to go for a second welder, the 220V stick is a lot cheaper than a good 220V wire feed and will get the job done on the heavy stuff.

Track bars? I think you already answered your own question...

Pinion angle needs to be adjusted according to the type of driveshaft you are running and the angle of the rear output on the transfer case. If you go with a CV drive shaft, point the pinion 2 degrees down from straight into the driveshaft. If you go with a standard drive shaft make the pinion paralell wiht the t-case output. There's some visuals on pinion angle in this article http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/tech/pinionangle/