geocrasher
Mudrunner
Reged: 09/10/11
Posts: 379
Loc: Castle Rock WA, US
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Last year when I went from the stock tires to 30's, I noticed a bit of a wobble in the steering wheel just going down the road. Well, this week it developed into a death wobble. It doesn't happen all the time. Depends on the road surface, how long I'm in the affected speed zone (35-45mph) and what not.
What happens is I'll be accelerating and around 35mph the wobble gets pretty bad, and as speed in increases towards 40mph, it gets outright violent and around 45mph it stops completely like it never happened. I can cruise at higher speeds without instability.
So, I know that the first thing is usually TRE's etc. Should I just attack this by installing new TRE's and a new idler arm? I'm thinking about hitting the local pick'n'pull, there's a Gen 1 there I could grab everything off of cheaply.
Thanks for any tips.
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1987 Raider, 344K miles and going strong
31" tires, otherwise stock.
How to include pictures in threads on 4x4wire (Youtube video)
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12705
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Diagnose the front end. Put a jack under the lower a arm and wobble the tires, grabbing top and bottom. You are looking for wheel bearing slop. Now crawl under and wobble the tire side to side, looking at the tre's and idler arm (most probable wear spot). Look for movement in the idler arm shaft (worn bushings). Look for slop in the upper a arm bushings.
The most common causes for death wobble by far are the wheel bearings and the idler arm. I'd just adjust the wheel bearings and replace the idler arm bushings, both real cheap to do. You'll need the socket for the wheel bearings, or two pin punches and a lever.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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geocrasher
Mudrunner
Reged: 09/10/11
Posts: 379
Loc: Castle Rock WA, US
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Thank you Eddy, I appreciate this greatly. I found a post of yours while searching to see which socket to use, from 2007. "K-D chevy 3/4T lock nut socket, and grind off two prongs to leave 2 opposite each other. "
Is that still the best way?
Thanks tons.
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1987 Raider, 344K miles and going strong
31" tires, otherwise stock.
How to include pictures in threads on 4x4wire (Youtube video)
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off-roader
Mitsubishi Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/16/00
Posts: 15504
Loc: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Thank you Eddy, I appreciate this greatly. I found a post of yours while searching to see which socket to use, from 2007. "K-D chevy 3/4T lock nut socket, and grind off two prongs to leave 2 opposite each other. "
Is that still the best way?
Thanks tons.
That or buy the OEM mitsu tool. The mitsu tool isn't cheap and is harder to find so fortunately the GM socket tool and a bench grinding wheel is available.
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12705
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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somebody borrowed my socket and never returned it, so I use two pin punches and a 1/2"breaker bar handle, and torque by feel, like I always set up wheel bearings. I jam them real tight to settle the bearing, then set them just past loosey goosey tignt plus an eighth turn.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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rxinhed
The Mitsubishi Parts Guy
Reged: 02/21/05
Posts: 5897
Loc: Gerber, CA
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I have a Mitsu socket that I'll loan. You pay shipping to and from. 
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geocrasher
Mudrunner
Reged: 09/10/11
Posts: 379
Loc: Castle Rock WA, US
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I'll check the play, see if its even needed, and PM you my address if required. Thanks Russel :)
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1987 Raider, 344K miles and going strong
31" tires, otherwise stock.
How to include pictures in threads on 4x4wire (Youtube video)
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KF6ZPL
Recreation Advocate
Reged: 02/15/00
Posts: 3949
Loc: Lakeside, CA
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You might do a search on death wobble in the 4x4wire archives as that is a problem that is not brand specific.
Just use the search block at the top of the page. There is a wealth of information that may save you a lo of time.
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John Stewart
Editor - 4x4Wire.com
4x4Voice
Board Member BlueRibbon Coalition
CA4WDC Resources Consultant
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geocrasher
Mudrunner
Reged: 09/10/11
Posts: 379
Loc: Castle Rock WA, US
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That's how I knew it's called "Death Wobble". PBB member since 2000 ;-)
So, in conjunction with other things, I pulled into the garage and jacked up the passenger tire and gave it some tugs. Yanking the top to bottom, there is no play. I think the wheel bearing (on that side anyway) is fine. I didn't check the other side.
What I did find is that the idler arm is somewhat wobbly. It moves about 1/8" up and down when you try to turn the right tire by hand. The tire also moves a fair bit. So, I have a bushing kit to put in. We'll see if that solves it.
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1987 Raider, 344K miles and going strong
31" tires, otherwise stock.
How to include pictures in threads on 4x4wire (Youtube video)
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RECON45
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 07/20/09
Posts: 1216
Loc: Statesville, NC
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I thought the term death wobble was only related to solid axle vehicles. I know I have been in a few that had that death wobble. It is very scary.
But it sounds like you are on the right track. I would have thought something with your idler or a bent connecting rod. Hope you get it taken care of.
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91 Montero LS "RECON", Auto, Dual Bouncy Seats, SR rear axle with air locker, 2" Suspension lift, 2" Body Lift, GENII front IFS, 32" MT tires
www.lifehope.us.com
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