Greg1a
Need a Spot
Reged: 08/10/08
Posts: 2
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Any repair ideas for for a 1st to 2nd bad shift. It will go into 2nd if I go real slow or let rpm go low. If not it just feels spongy and will not drop into 2nd. I hope it is a shifter repair and not 5 speed trany repair. Help if you can. greg
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goobuds
Mudrunner
Reged: 09/24/06
Posts: 275
Loc: wa
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have you change fuild? maybe try something like syncromesh from Pennzoil
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87 raider with 2.3td ,5sp, manual hubs, rear lsd, duel bouncy seats currently rebuilding engine
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12747
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Drive down the road in 2nd. Get on and off the gas, and watch the shifter. Does it flop back and forth when you are on and off the gas? If so, you need bearings and thrust plates. The parts are not terrible, and it's fairly easy to rebuild, but you have to do it before it fries completely.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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Bernoulli
Mudrunner
Reged: 05/17/06
Posts: 426
Loc: Brisbane OZ/NW USA
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I have had to have two transmissions rebuilt - Gen1 Montero and Raider for that reason. I just double clutched my Gen1 Pajero. The local transmission re-builder told me that the #2 synchro is complicated and prone to failure.
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89 3L V6 5spd SWB, 2 (suspension) seater Raider in Ferndale, WA or Portland , OR
95 3L V6 5spd,SWB, 3 seater Pajero GLS Redland Bay, QLD
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Bernoulli
Mudrunner
Reged: 05/17/06
Posts: 426
Loc: Brisbane OZ/NW USA
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Here is the entire thread from a recent Australian MMC forum (Pajero 4WD Club of Victoria). I include it all because some of it is over my head, but it may bring up some comments from transmission/lubericant experts.
when i change from 2nd to 3rd gear the gear stick occasionally jumps and clicks. it is hardly noticible and feels like the clutch in not pushed down fully. does this signal a problem rf is it just one of those things? it only happens changing up and not in any other gears. there are no other problems. i have a 3.5 nl
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Are you going too fast in gear changes from 2nd to 3rd?. are you putting clutch right down?.
i know in our old NH manual if you go too fast she wont go in properly, just take your time!, thats all we do and she has over 322 thou on it and still goin!!.
Hope that helps?!
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Are you saying it's a little notchy going from 2nd to 3rd?
Mine does it from 1st>2nd>3rd but not when i go back down and not in other gears and mines been diagnosed with syncro issues.
Maybe try a gearbox oil change, the GL-4 stuff is better by far than the recommended GL-5 for the syncro issues.
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hi gents, well i am definately not going too fast for the gear change, and paulies description of it feeling a bit notchy is spot on. i have just had a major service and the gearbox oil was done. not sure what oil was used, but old mate who did it is an MM mechanic who owns a paj. it was doing it before the oilchange maybe the synchro is wearing, but i only have 190k on the clock.
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The guy i spoke to said syncros was a common fault that he has to fix with the Mitsubishi Manual transmissions, that and main bearings. Other than that he said the rest is as strong as an ox and live past 500,000k's if cared for.
He also checked the clutch just incase and after said as it's not in all gears and only when going up it's more likely syncro or this other thing(can't remember what it was think it was selecter/linkage or something like that) either way it was a cheap fix, especially if i take the box and take it to him wich i'll be doing next month.
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i have the same issue as all the above in my Manual NH, its just old age....
i'll try the mitsu DiaQueen oil in the next oil change with the mitsu additive and see if my issues go away...
it helped when i did the oils in my Galant, 3rd gear stopped crunching on quick shifts...
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Go Castrol VMX for oil ............. caution on oil types as a lot of these run a special synchro cone and you can not even wash in petrol as it effects them. Thinner oil viscosity will help shift when cold but then at temp could be lacking ........... oil just doesn't replace metal wear sadly and worn is worn. On a modern type box if all works as it should you would be going to "beat" the synchros unless you literally rip the stick out the floor on each shift
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Very true bogger, syncro boxes rely mainly on friction to correctly sync in and EP additives in GL-5's prevent this from happening efficiently. That VMX stuff is perfect for syncros that are worn as it's GL-4 with friction modifiers
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Hi there,
it is defernetly a sinchro problem. Been there done that. A thicker oil does helf fix the problem. I added some morys oil addertive which fixed the problem. It will make gear shifting a bit hard while that oil is cold though.
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One would hope not as friction modifiers reduce friction and thats exactly the opposite that you require for a baulk ring and synchro cone to do it's job efficiently. The faster the baulk ring can be "picked up" by the cone the better. You literally want the cone to stick like the proverbial to the blanket if you'll excuse the expression.
GL 4 oils have less EP additives than GL 5 simply meaning the GL5 will handle higher pressure loads than a GL 4 rated oil. You won't have a problem using GL 5 where GL 4 is required but you can if you use the other way around for reasons as stated above. Thats why most manual trans can run fine on GL 4 but the diffs with Hypoid Gear action require the GL 5 rated due to extreme pressures created.
EP additives simply help protect gears under extreme pressure from wear and have no effect on frictional qualities. In laymans terms the additives are simply placing a cushion between the two meeting surfaces .............. the more EP additive content the bigger the cushion. whats that saying ? More cushion for the pushin ................... aaaahh but I digress here different topic me thinks
VMX has viscosity stabilisers which aid slicker shifts when cold but not friction modifiers
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89 3L V6 5spd SWB, 2 (suspension) seater Raider in Ferndale, WA or Portland , OR
95 3L V6 5spd,SWB, 3 seater Pajero GLS Redland Bay, QLD
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