MRT100
Need a Spot
Reged: 09/17/07
Posts: 24
Loc: Western Mass, USA
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1996 4Runner SR5 V6 engine AT
Hello all,
Need to replace Lower control arm bushings in my 96 4Runner. Can someone provide list of steps involved in this, please? Are there any special tools required?
I've spent some time browsing this forum and other forums, but have no complete picture yet.
I need some insight before I start this job. I hate to get stuck in the middle of it and not being able to complete it.
Thanks
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Jeff the marmot
Trailriding Forum Moderator
Reged: 02/13/00
Posts: 4668
Loc: Thornton, Colorado
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Front or rear lower control arms?
-------------------- Jeff
2000 4Runner SR5, supercharger, rear e-locker, ARB front locker, 285/75R16 MT/R's, custom bumpers & skids
2007 Tacoma double cab 4x4 - stock
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MRT100
Need a Spot
Reged: 09/17/07
Posts: 24
Loc: Western Mass, USA
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Sorry! FRONT after 230K there getting really bad
Thanks for your interest Jeff.
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Adam F
Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/29/01
Posts: 11592
Loc: Cincinnati, OH
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nevermind
-------------------- 88 4R, 350 V8, R150 5 speed Sold
97 4R, stock, daily driver
98 Sienna, kid and dog hauler, wife's ride
Edited by Adam F (08/18/09 01:56 AM)
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Jeff the marmot
Trailriding Forum Moderator
Reged: 02/13/00
Posts: 4668
Loc: Thornton, Colorado
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As I understand it, you're talking about the pivot points for the front lower control arms that have the bushings built into them. They are where the adjustment cams are for an alignment.
Toyota doesn't consider those bushings as being replaceable separate from the control arms. So you need to order the control arm assembly which includes those bushings in them.
One thing that adds complexity to the replacement of the front lower control arms is you have to partially unbolt the steering rack to get at one or two of the rear pivot bolts.
Part of 4Runneradam's comments apply to the lower ball joint, which you'll need to separate from the lower control arm as part of this. Be sure to use blue medium strength thread lock on those 4 bolts around the bottom of the lower ball joint.
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Adam F
Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/29/01
Posts: 11592
Loc: Cincinnati, OH
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Woops, sorry, brain fart there. Its late, I'm going to bed
-------------------- 88 4R, 350 V8, R150 5 speed Sold
97 4R, stock, daily driver
98 Sienna, kid and dog hauler, wife's ride
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Greg_Canada
Roll Me Over
Reged: 08/25/03
Posts: 2815
Loc: Toronto, Canada
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Will tacoma bushings work? http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136510
-------------------- 89 4Runner
3" BL, M/T locks, 33"bfg mt, bilstein, Kayline, tubebumper, toyotafiberglass panels
TBI: Elocker,3.4 w/ORS,b+b,S2Sstg2cams,arias pistons,P+P intake,TRDs/c,URDpullies+7th,downey headers,MAPECU2,WEGO WB, SupraMAF,walboro255,stg4clutch, EPaOo2 sim
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Jeff the marmot
Trailriding Forum Moderator
Reged: 02/13/00
Posts: 4668
Loc: Thornton, Colorado
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Greg, thanks for posting that. I hadn't heard that Energy Suspension had those available. That'll be nice to keep the costs down on replacement. I can't get the application guide to work for 4Runners on their web page so I can't confirm that it's the same part, but it probably is.
I can see the installation instruction sheet is at this link. It's for part #8.3115R with instrucions #17232. http://www.energysuspension.com/assets/files/pdf/17232.pdf
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Jeff the marmot
Trailriding Forum Moderator
Reged: 02/13/00
Posts: 4668
Loc: Thornton, Colorado
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I was just checking further into this possibility. I noticed one thread that disagrees about using the Energy Suspension bushings in the LCA's. See the last few posts here: www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62864
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MRT100
Need a Spot
Reged: 09/17/07
Posts: 24
Loc: Western Mass, USA
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Ok guys, Just a small update…
At the end we decided not to play with the bushing, just replace LCAs. We were able to buy inexpensive used LCA (90K on them) in a very good shape, $40.00 each. They were approved by our friendly car mechanic - 10 plus years experience so we trust him. The job itself was not to difficult, especially with the car on a car lift and pneumatic tools (again friendly mechanic – with not much business on rainy Saturday). It took us about 4 hours including replacing all tie rods (again).
There was only one SMALL snug! Take a guess guys…
Unbolting (bushings) bolts you may think? No Problem…
Removing adjustment cams – holly SSSS… No amount of pounding even with big hammer would do.
Again, here comes our friendly mechanic to the rescue. With an appropriate size bolt into the adjustment cam on the other end and pneumatic hammer he was able (with quite a bit of push) to remove 3 of them. On the forth one our luck run out. Nothing, nothing would work. Quick call to a local Toyota dealer for a new cam (so we could cut it out) – no luck; special order only (few days).
Well, we are stumped. The car needs to drive away from the lift. Then, our friendly mechanic showed his valor. Few minutes with the wheel cutter and the stubborn adjustment cam is free. I know – one LCA is gone, but we DIDN’T care at this point. Reinstalling everything, including unbolted steering rack was a walk in the park. Another surprise are all tie rods – inner and out. Replaced no more then a year they are all bad. So much for buying cheap s…(stuff) from Advance. Quick trip to Advance solves it. New parts are in place little time. We went for Moog, supposedly made in Japan life time warranty parts this time (we got a discount for old ones – at least that).
I asked (our friendly mechanic) what would it take to replace bushings. His answer was short: 3 – 4 hours, 20 ton press (10 ton sometimes is not enough) and LOTS OF FU...s.
Small summary: I believe replacing LCA and not playing with bushings for a little more money make sense. This saves time and nerves. The job itself should be doable from the garage floor (stands), but it would be a major PITA. However, I cannot imagine dealing with frozen adjustment cams, when laying on the floor.
Thanks for reading…
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