huey
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 10/25/05
Posts: 26
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Hey lads, I know this question has has probably been explained 1000 times but I dont know where to look for the answer therefore could someone explain what is the procedure for removing the rotors on my 91 pickup 4X4. Or direct me to the info and maybe a pic. I have a manual but the pic in it dosent jibe with my truck.Any help greatly appreciated. Huey
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4Crawler
Toyota 4-Wheeling Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/12/00
Posts: 12144
Loc: N. California. USA
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Good place to start is the Maintenance section on this very site:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/
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r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad - 4x4Wire discount code
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huey
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 10/25/05
Posts: 26
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This is an excellant website but when it comes to rotor removal its not. It stops at 1985 so I have a 91 and it does not explain how the aluminum hub housing comes off. I know there are 6 studs with acorn nots on them OK now the nuts are off so whats next. There is good detail as to how to seperated the rotor and install a new one but it dont tell how to get the assembly off the truck.I know there must be something inside there that that aluminum housing is preventing me from accesing.
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Bogo
Mudrunner
Reged: 10/02/07
Posts: 409
Loc: The Village
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Pics of where your at if possible. It has been years since I've replaced the front rotors on my '94. I looked at the FSM for '93 in the sticky thread for the FSMs and it didn't remind me of anything additional beyond removing the wheel and lug nuts. I don't think the free hub in the center needs removal unless that is a change between '91 and '94. Look to see if there are a pair of threaded holes in the rotor. Likely will fit a 5 to 6 mm bolt. They will be in the same area as the lug bolts. If so you can insert bolts into both of them and as you crank them in they will press against the hub and push the rotor off the hub. Use grade 8 bolts if you haven't had the rotors off recently as the rotors may be stuck on tight. Eventually the rotor will free up and pop off. I remember mine being so hard to get off I eventually took a hammer to them to pop them loose.
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-- Bryan
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toyomorph
Wheeler
Reged: 12/28/03
Posts: 181
Loc: Western CO
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does this help?
FRONT BRAKE ROTOR
Removal
1) Raise vehicle and remove wheels. Disconnect brakeline from caliper (if necessary). Remove caliper.
2) On models with free wheeling hub, set control handle to
FREE position. On all models, remove hub cover, bolt/washer and hub body. Use tapered punch to open slits of conical washers. Remove axle shaft snap ring (if equipped).
3) Straighten tabs of outer lock washer. Using Spindle Socket (09607-60020), remove lock nut, lock washer and adjusting nut. Remove thrust washer and outer bearing. Remove axle hub and rotor. Remove grease seal and inner bearing. Press hub bolts out of axle hub. Remove
retaining bolts, and separate rotor from hub.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Adjust wheel bearings.
See appropriate article:
* SUSPENSION - FRONT - 2WD.
* SUSPENSION - FRONT - 4WD.
Tighten all bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
If you give me your email address I could send the pertinent file for removal of hubs with pics from 95 4 runner Manual.
Also, have you checked the 93 FSM link ?
93 FSM
Edited by toyomorph (03/14/08 10:59 AM)
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Adam F
Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/29/01
Posts: 11592
Loc: Cincinnati, OH
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You must not have read far enough or fully understood the link 4crawler gave you. This one...
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/
Read the "BEGIN DISASSEMBLY" link. This shows you how to remove the rotor and hub assembly off the knuckle.
Next read "REMOVE AND REPLACE BRAKE ROTORS" link. In this page is says "If your truck is IFS or an early solid axle (1979-1980) removing and replacing rotors is an easy task. Remove the 6-14mm bolts from the back side of the wheel hub, and pull the rotor off of the wheel hub." Your truck is an IFS, so follow these directions.
One tip to make separating the wheel hub from the rotor is to use a pickle fork inbetween the two. They are pretty well stuck together, and this is the only way I could get them apart.
Also, in place of a 54mm socket, you can use a 2 1/8" socket from Sears. Otherwise you will have to order a 54mm from places like marlincrawler.com or trail-gear.com
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88 4R, 350 V8, R150 5 speed Sold 
97 4R, stock, daily driver
98 Sienna, kid and dog hauler, wife's ride
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huey
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 10/25/05
Posts: 26
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OK guys, great help. What I guess I want to know is , Where it says to use a Brass Bar ( punch) to hemove the tapered washers, Does that mean to drive the studs back into the hub like punchiing them through? I mean this is my stuck point ( Getting those washers loose)
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Adam F
Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/29/01
Posts: 11592
Loc: Cincinnati, OH
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No. The studs stay in place. There is a split conical washer that you have to remove. They are usually hard to get out. The BEST method I have used it to hit the HUB BODY (NOT locking hub) with a GOOD sized hammer right on top of the studs. Go around in a circle hitting right above all the studs and the washers should pop loose. I usually keep the nuts on with a few threads in case the washers decide to pop loose. You may need a flat head screwdriver to pry them apart once they are popped loose to pull them free from the stud.
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88 4R, 350 V8, R150 5 speed Sold
97 4R, stock, daily driver
98 Sienna, kid and dog hauler, wife's ride
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4Crawler
Toyota 4-Wheeling Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/12/00
Posts: 12144
Loc: N. California. USA
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Quote:
OK guys, great help. What I guess I want to know is , Where it says to use a Brass Bar ( punch) to hemove the tapered washers, Does that mean to drive the studs back into the hub like punchiing them through? I mean this is my stuck point ( Getting those washers loose)
I have some cone washer removal tips on the web page below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml#ConeWasherRemoval
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r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad - 4x4Wire discount code
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toyomorph
Wheeler
Reged: 12/28/03
Posts: 181
Loc: Western CO
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Roger, that's really good information. Especially like the part about not hitting the hub body too hard. On my truck the previous owner or mechanic hit the hub body so hard with a hammer that there are now permanent dents above each stud.
Thanks
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canyon country explorer
1987 2x PUP MIJ
1993 4x PUP MIT
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