Angelo
Roll Me Over
Reged: 02/21/02
Posts: 3448
Loc: Charlotte NC
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I've had this 1500 watt Power Inverter, yeah, its a lil much, but got it for a good deal and its still new.
Whats the best way to install this. I already bought the cables to run them into the cargo area where the Inverter will go, but am I missing anything in between to make sure this doesnt become a fire hazzard? Anything else I should be aware of 
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99JAOS2"& OME 2"body 4.90s ARB HS9500i Skids&Ladder 16"315BFG JAOSRemote& Rack 3Row Rad IPF back& Searchlite 33TSL StreetLock HID Overhead Console/CB switchPanel FrARB RrLocker TJMSnorkel 160AAlt Sliders 2nd Tranny Cooler QuickAirII& Tank Rear frame/tank Lift
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don
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/17/00
Posts: 3281
Loc: Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Just fuse the power supply line outside the pass compartment, and put a switch on the POS line, so it only runs when needed.
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Don `87 Mitsu 2dr, Rubicon survivor, GModified.
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exp500
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 11/30/07
Posts: 46
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Numerous ways available, all depends on your comfort level and pocketbook. I'd recommend a disconnect switch at the battery, hardwired the entire way back.An alternative would be use a ford relay and an in cab switch. Does your truck swim much? Lastly,heat kills them- ventilation very important. Need to blow out the fan occasionally. Good Luck.
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Angelo
Roll Me Over
Reged: 02/21/02
Posts: 3448
Loc: Charlotte NC
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Excuse the dumb questions. I should know this stuff by now, but the inverters are new to me and dont wanna F* up
Quote:
Just fuse the power supply line outside the pass compartment, and put a switch on the POS line, so it only runs when needed.
Elaborate, this stuff is still new to me  So you are saying to run the cables outside and not in the cabin? And how do I install a switch on those thick cables?
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I'd recommend a disconnect switch at the battery, hardwired the entire way back.
Add a disconnect only on the (+) cable of the inverter?
Quote:
An alternative would be use a ford relay and an in cab switch
Is this relay different from normal relays? And how do I go about installing this in-cabin switch with the cables being so thick. Cant rememeber the AWG #, but its thick.
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Lastly,heat kills them- ventilation very important. Need to blow out the fan occasionally. Good Luck.
I'll have it hard-mounted in the cargo area, posibily even have a bracket made up and bolted where the 3rd row seats were. Nothing will be around it so it will have plenty of fresh air.
Thanks for the advice guys,
Angelo
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99JAOS2"& OME 2"body 4.90s ARB HS9500i Skids&Ladder 16"315BFG JAOSRemote& Rack 3Row Rad IPF back& Searchlite 33TSL StreetLock HID Overhead Console/CB switchPanel FrARB RrLocker TJMSnorkel 160AAlt Sliders 2nd Tranny Cooler QuickAirII& Tank Rear frame/tank Lift
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OldColt
Roll Me Over
Reged: 09/19/06
Posts: 2599
Loc: East Wallyworld Vermont
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The relay only needs to switch the positive cable.
There are different coil resistances in the relays being that some are for intermittent use and some can be used for long on periods. These have a higher resistance coil in them.
Keep in mind that 1500 watts is about what the starter motor draws. This is allot of current at 12 volts.
Has anyone mounted there inverter under the hood and just run the 110 volt back. Yes dust, heat and moisture all need to be considered.
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Cheers, Charlie
If It ain't broke, Modify it!
87 Montero turbo Converted back in 1989
95 Montero SR 3.8 DOHC First one?
Will a 94 Macrocab turbocharged with a 6 speed be next?
ffmsd.com
http://www.cardomain.com/id/Old-Colt
http://6g72rwd.forumcircle.com
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don
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/17/00
Posts: 3281
Loc: Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Usually it's a bad idea to run a large powered line into the passenger area, unless there's an in-line fuse on it, and the fuse is outside the passenger compartment (usually under the hood).
I ran a heavy oversized red wire from the battery to a 30A Maxi fuse mounted inside the engine compartment, then ran the wire from the other side of the fuse into the passenger area through one of the existing wiring ports in the body. This goes to a 25A rated dashboard switch (Westmarine's heavy duty marine stuff), which is enough for my inverter, and from there to the inverter power supply. If the inverter needs more than 25A, then it might be better to use a relay instead of a switch, but the relays may not handle much more than 30A anyway.
This setup means a short-circuit will trip the fuse in the engine area, safely eliminating a live POS wire inside the pass area. If the fuse is inside the pass area, then you risk a fire inside if the wire shorts between the Batt and the fuse. So put the fuse as close as possible to the battery.
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Don `87 Mitsu 2dr, Rubicon survivor, GModified.
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don
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/17/00
Posts: 3281
Loc: Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Check the inverter itself to see what amperage it needs on a 12V system, and select wire size and fuse size accordingly.
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Don `87 Mitsu 2dr, Rubicon survivor, GModified.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Quote:
Has anyone mounted there inverter under the hood and just run the 110 volt back. Yes dust, heat and moisture all need to be considered.
Would the environment under the hood be better or worse for it, as opposed to in the cabin?
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Just another idiot...
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OldColt
Roll Me Over
Reged: 09/19/06
Posts: 2599
Loc: East Wallyworld Vermont
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The issue with Angelo's is the 125 amp peak draw. That is a #4 cable at least. Yah got to install that right or the problems can be real big.
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Cheers, Charlie
If It ain't broke, Modify it!
87 Montero turbo Converted back in 1989
95 Montero SR 3.8 DOHC First one?
Will a 94 Macrocab turbocharged with a 6 speed be next?
ffmsd.com
http://www.cardomain.com/id/Old-Colt
http://6g72rwd.forumcircle.com
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Use this DC voltage drop calculator:
ABYC DC Voltage Drop Calculator
I have found that marine standards of no more than 3% voltage drops make for good electrical equipment operation.
For your inverter power of 1500 watts, figure an input need of 125 amps (1500/12vdc).... IF you deliver a full 12v to the inverter. The only way to deliver 12vdc is to make certain you have sufficient wire size from the battery to the inverter. Also, remember that when the engine is not running, battery voltage drops from 13.6 to nearer 12.0-12.5v.
The longer the run from the inverter to the battery, the larger the wire size required.
So, using the calculator's 12vdc selection, measure the 1-way run from the battery to any mounted fuse device and on to the termination point at the inverter. For instance, if the total run is 15', you would need 2/0 cable to deliver power to the inverter with less than a 3% voltage drop.
Some folks work with a 5% voltage drop, which would require a 2AWG wire size. That would only give you a .6v drop and would likely be fine as long as the engine is running or if you don't use the inverter for extended periods with the engine off. I would prefer the more conservative wiring, but it's a bit of overkill - you might want to use something in between as a compromise on cost and efficiency.
There is always a danger with high current in the event of a short circuit... which certainly can happen in a vehicle accident, so you'll need fused or circuit breaker protection near the battery, so the wiring to the inverter is protected along the entire length. I used a circuit breaker, but a fuse will work fine, so long as it's over 125A rating. I used one of these, but you'll need the 150A model if you use a circuit breaker:
Circuit Breaker
If you prefer a fuse, here's one:
Fuse Block
Large wire sizes are a problem to connect to the inverter, so somewhere close to the inverter you can install a power post and run a smaller wire from the power post to the inverter power input. Here's an example of the power terminal post:
Terminal post
To figure wire size from the power post to the inverter, use the calculator again - but you need to understand that the supply voltage is now the reduced battery voltage at the power post and there will be another voltage drop from the power post to the inverter - the amount will depend again on the wire size and the terminal post should be as close to the inverter as possible.
The ground wire from the inverter can be connected to the body or frame - closest location to the inverter, but you should upgrade the ground wiring from the battery to the common point selection. That means that if you ground the inverter to the body, you should beef up or add another ground wire from the battery to the inner fender. The same would apply for the frame ground if you use the frame as the ground point.
Here are some pictures from my install - 400W (800W peak) inverter - you don't need the engine bay relay or the extra breaker switches and panel I used - just wire directly from the battery to the fuse (or breaker), to the power post and then to the inverter:
Relay (round can on right - not necessary unless you want to kill the available power to the inverter) and circuit breaker mounted to battery heat shield:
Power post terminal (smaller terminal is for connection of additional 12v outlets, green/white are switch leads - not needed):
Distribution panel mounting:
Good luck,
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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