FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Bob (87_Montero) was kind enough to lend me his blown engine for use in my S/C project. I agreed to rebuild it in exchange for his effort in getting it to me and his patience while I did the mockup work. 
I started taking it apart this morning - found some jelly in #3:
It looks like the cylinder head lifted and the gasket breached between #3 and #5 cylinders - note non-OE gasket set:
The head appears to confirm a breach between the cylinders:
I don't know yet what caused the tracks between the #3 plug and valve - maybe residue from burnt coolant:
The driver side seems fine, but appears it was on the way to blowing as well:
I'm now at a standstill - the crankshaft timing sprocket is rusted to the crank - so far I've managed to mangle the sprocket, but not enough to get it off. A WD-40 soak and heat on the sprocket didn't work... I guess next I'll try PB Blaster and freon on the crank nose. Payback's Hell...  
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Macka
Rock Warrior
Reged: 05/23/04
Posts: 915
Loc: off road in the great white no...
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why don't you weld a bolt to the sprocket and use a slide hammer? or weld 2 studs and use a harmonic balancer puller?
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suffering from lack o'wheeling
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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No welder here at home. 
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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sparkem
Trail Leader
Reged: 12/12/00
Posts: 6883
Loc: Ponchatoula, LA
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I have had good results with PB, but mine has never been rusted stuck.
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I just want to tell you both good luck, and we're all counting on you.
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Macka
Rock Warrior
Reged: 05/23/04
Posts: 915
Loc: off road in the great white no...
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Quote:
No welder here at home.
Frank
gear puller?
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suffering from lack o'wheeling
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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There's not enough room for a gear puller.... anyway, it's finally off - took about 4 hours of using a big cold chisel as a wedge and a huge offset screwdriver as a pry.... with a 40 oz. shop hammer as a coaxer.... sacrificed the oil pump and sprocket in the doing, though - was going to replace the oil pump anyway, so the only victim was a $30 sprocket. The nose of the crankshaft is fairly pitted with rust - still useable after a polishing, but if the last builder had put some anti-sieze on the nose, things would have been a little easier.
Moving on to the bottom end - assuming the block and heads are ok, there's no question of a head gasket breach - water in the oil is very obvious:
Bob, better put an oil pickup tube on the parts list - that thing's nasty....  ... I can clean it in the parts washer, but I wouldn't trust it - your call.
That's enough for today. Next session, I'll take a look at the cylinder bores, crankshaft journals, pistons and rods.... I'm guessing they're ok and hopefully will only need a cylinder hone, journal polish with new bearings and rings - if the engine was bored when it was last rebuilt - if not, it'll have to be bored and new pistons installed.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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LRJ4x4
Web Wheeler
Reged: 12/17/01
Posts: 11717
Loc: Monterey, CA
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Yum, Caramel milkshake
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98 Montero with cold weather package
96 Toyota Land Cruiser, fully locked Mall Machine :-)
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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I split the sprocket with a whiz wheel and a wedge. Cut a groove down one side and drive in the wedge. They crack pretty easy. Some of them have "lightening" holes in the front face that tap out pretty easy to 8mm like the most common mitsu bolt, but the threads are a little weak for real pulling. The sprocket is powdered metal, and if at all mangled, I'd replace it.
Rod that radiator, Bob....
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Oh, yeah - it's mangled alright! I did consider trying to split it with a chisel and hammer - even looked longingly at my air chisel, but in the end, my determination and insistence worked. 
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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First glance at the bottom end suggests good news - it hasn't been long since this one was overhauled - guess the gasket blew shortly after the rebuild.
Rod bearings look new:
Crankshaft journals are nearly perfect:
Crankshaft bearings are like new - here you can see why the bottom end of a 3.0L is so stout... the main bearing saddle provides a great deal of stability:
The cylinder bores look fine, but I'll have to put a dial readout gauge on them to see if they need boring - probably will. Note the lack of honing marks - probably wasn't bored/honed on the rebuild... pistons appear to be original 3.587":
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
When I was a kid, I would have reinstalled the crankshaft as is and re-used the same bearings on a bottom end that looks this good, but I'll take it to the machine shop and make sure all the clearances are correct - don't wanna be doing any warranty work for forum members.
The block's gonna need at least honing and if that's all, maybe the original pistons can be re-used (if the ring grooves are still ok) - BUT - I suspect it'll have to be bored .010-.020" and new pistons installed.
It looks like the last rebuild was a freshen-up job with new bearings and gaskets - also the rings were likely replaced, since there was no carbon ridge at the cylinder tops. Anyway, I've sure seen a lot worse to work with than this.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Edited by FrankR (08/28/06 10:21 PM)
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