Anonymous
Unregistered
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I understand that with a suspension lift the push pull steering is prone to breakage. Can a steering box and components from an IFS truck be used or is there a kit for upgradeing the steering components.
Thanks  
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4Crawler
Toyota 4-Wheeling Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/12/00
Posts: 12144
Loc: N. California. USA
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Yep, search for "crossover steering" of "Hy-steer" or "high steer":
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/CrossoverSteering/index.shtml
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r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad - 4x4Wire discount code
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kyle-22r
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 08/10/02
Posts: 2101
Loc: Lacey, WA
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i'd recommend marlin's hysteer kit. it is available set up for either the stock IFS pitman arm, or a modified/aftermarket arm with an FJ80 end. also now have a choice between billet and forged. forged is cheaper and very strong, but billet is shiny 
i've got the billet arms, but i bought them before forged arms were available...
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'79 sport 4x4 longbed 
20/22R hybrid with EB's OS valves, 268c cam, offy intake, weber 32/36, thorley header, 5 speed swap, 34" LTBs, downey 3" springs, marlin hysteer, 4.88s and locked
'91 4x4 shortbed
22R-E, W56, the dd!
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randito
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 02/17/04
Posts: 98
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I'm also curious about push pull vs. cross over steering. I know that everyone switches to cross over on modified/lifed rigs, but with a stock or nearly stock suspension, does the push pull limit wheel travel? I'm wanting to do something with my suspension in the future, but probably not lift it more than a couple inches and just curious. Thanks.
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1985 runner, completely stock(still)
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4Crawler
Toyota 4-Wheeling Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/12/00
Posts: 12144
Loc: N. California. USA
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You can build up push-pull steering to work with 4" or even more lift, dropped/adjustable draglink and torque rod. The main issue you run into is that the driver's side steering or "J-" arm is the weak point. Plan on carrying a spare on the trail because it is likely to break. The issue you run into is if the draglink binds up on the arm when the driver's side is at full droop, it can stress that arm. May not break then, but it will eventually fail. So it is not so much that the steering limits the suspension travel, rather that you need to limit the suspension travel to protect the steering (usually done with the torque rod). Go back and read some of the "early" trip reports here and take note of the steering failures.
But before crossover steering caught on, push-pull was it. I remember Jack Alford's writeup on what may have been the first SAS ever done and he fitted his IFS truck with factory push-pull steering. But if you do the adjustable dropped draglinks and torque rods, figure about $200 or so in parts. Crossover does dork oh so much better on the road. I noticed my '85 steering was great stock, but with about 3.5" of lift it got very vague and sloppy. When I had x-over installed, it was like stepping into a sports car, you turned the steering wheel and the wheels turned right away and rock solid.
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r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad - 4x4Wire discount code
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kyle-22r
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 08/10/02
Posts: 2101
Loc: Lacey, WA
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not to mention it's just a better design. toyota used the push pull setup because crossover unfortunately doesn't clear the frame and oil pan on the engine without modification without a few inches of lift. the FJ40 used a combination, the push-pull drag link went to a bellcrank of sorts, which pulled on another drag link that crossed over like a regular crossover setup. lots of rod ends, lots of slop 
i can't wait to install my hysteer kit, it should have a lot less bump steer as well as not try to turn the truck when i hit the brakes.
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'79 sport 4x4 longbed
20/22R hybrid with EB's OS valves, 268c cam, offy intake, weber 32/36, thorley header, 5 speed swap, 34" LTBs, downey 3" springs, marlin hysteer, 4.88s and locked
'91 4x4 shortbed
22R-E, W56, the dd!
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whitetoy
Mudrunner
Reged: 02/26/01
Posts: 402
Loc: Folsom, CA
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If you're not going to run the Hammers, or sluice box, push-pull works fine. I've resisted the urge to go to cross-over and have not regretted it. I run a home-made adjustable torque rod,and adjustable drag link,. That and the short shock limits the front droop to avoid breakage. I've also flipped the ball on the arm. It all sacrifices flex but I still run the Rubicon and Fordyce every year, for the last 10 years, without breaking any steering components. Just drive sensibly and don't force it.
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Rick
1984 4Runner
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