I recently did my 95 3.0L 24V. It is more similar to the 3.5L than to the older 3.0L I think. A couple of comments from my first crack at this not-too-small job:
1) When rotating the engine, do it from the crank. I first did it from a cam sprocket. Turns out it cannot turn then engine easily and I jumped a tooth on the belt. Which of course meant I had to do it all over again.
2) A tip from my B-I-L to help with the align the new was to mark the old belt and each of the sprockets with a white paint pen. Then transfer those marks to the new belt. Install the new so it aligns with the ones on the sprockets. I think this helped me in that you have to thread the whole belt in one direction to get to all the teeth right. I wasn't sure if I was dong it properly, but when the marks all lined up... Note that this does not replace the need to check the engine's markings as well.
3) Yes, those A/C bolts are a pain. There is one way back that I didn't know was there at first and was getting real PO's trying to find it.
4) For those unsure of doing, but equally sure of not wanting to shell out the $$$ to have it done, just take your time. Make sure you understand all that comes off as you do it and it will make more sense then going back together. FSM is helpful.
-------------------- Big Truck 2: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 94k, stock for now
Big Truck 1: 95, MT, >Gone<
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 29k miles!
This site and all original materials contained herein are Copyright 1999 - 2013 by OutdoorWire, Inc. -- All Rights Reserved.
You may link freely to this site, but no further use is allowed without the express written permission of the owner of this material.
All corporate trademarks are the property of their respective owners.
This publication and OutdoorWire, Inc. assume no liability for your use of the material contained within this site.
OutdoorWire, 4x4Wire, SUVWire, JeepWire, MUIRNet-News, and 4x4Voice are all trademarks and publications of OutdoorWire, Inc.