87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Everything is hooked up correctly including the fuel pump, ignition and all. When I turn the key to the "On" position, I hear the fuel pump relay click on, but I dont hear the fuel pump start up like its supposed to for a few seconds. I put a multitestor on the hot wire, but It doesnt give off any power when I turn the key or anything. Does that mean that the Relay is bad? or is it a wire somewhere I did not hook up correctly?
The pump turns on when I hot wire it to the battery and circulates fuel no problem, I just need to figure out why it doesnt turn the fuel pump on to pressurize the system.
I can't wait to start it!!!
Thanks,
Brendan
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
Edited by 87Montero (11/19/04 04:08 PM)
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10224
Loc: Columbia, SC
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You might have a wire wrong - or maybe the wire size isn't large enough to carry sufficient voltage to run the pump. You should have ignition voltage through one wire to activate the relay, and a second (larger) wire coming from the battery to one side of the relay throw contacts, with another heavy wire from the other side of the relay throw to the fuel pump. You'll get better voltage from the alternator connection, but battery voltage should be fine.
I haven't looked hard at these 2 articles, but take a minute to see if you've covered all the basics:
Relay Wiring
Stealth Fuel Pump Wiring
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
..a second (larger) wire coming from the battery to one side of the relay throw contacts..
I am using the stock quest relay and harness. If I understand correctly I have to splice a wire from the battery into the pump relay's harness?
Brendan
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10224
Loc: Columbia, SC
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I'm not familiar with the Quest harness, but somehow you'll have to get power from the battery to the relay and on to the pump. I suggest that you turn on the ignition switch and see which 2 contacts on the relay (other than the ignition feed) make contact when the ignition is on, but do not when the ignition is off. One of those will go to the pump and the other to the battery.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12703
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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You have to splice a wire from the control relay fuel pump power out wire to the fuel pump. The control relay is the squarish silver box with the fat white plug near the ecu. The fuel pump power out wire is the 2BW, looking at the control relay connector with catch up, last on right, top row. Backprobed, you should have 12v here in ST and ON. You can feel the relay trip at ign ON and ST by hand. This wire leads to the B34 connector, a two wire connector with only one hole used. From there you need to splice and run a new FAT wire (I used 8ga) to the fuel pump(+), and run a slightly smaller wire from fuel pump(-) to nearby good ground.
The control relay connector should show the following when disconnected. View the connector w/ catch up. 2L (#1 bottom row) wire 12v+ in ign ON. 1.25B (#1 top row) should show battery 12v+. 2BY (#2 bottom row) wire should show 12v+ in ign ST. B (#1 top row) shold have good connectivity to ground (Double wire w/ ring terminal near ign. coil/mixer, I think). 1.25R (#2 top), 1.25BR (#3 top), and WR (#4 bottom) all connect to other stuff downstream that get relay-switched 12v in ign ON, and will show no reading when connector is disc. WR is ecu-controlled gnd path for relay coil circuit that energizes fuel pump circuit in ign ON so ecu can kill fuel pump after 2sec unless it sees ign spark signal. 1.25R and 1.25BR power ecu, injectors, wastegate solenoid, spark box, etc. with 12v+ out of the relay.
The best sources for proper Monty power are at the ign switch. 2BR and 2BY are on in IGN ST. On some models, the 2BR is hot in ST and ON, so use the 2BY. The 2BW is hot in ign ON.
All confused now?
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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I disconnected the starter solenoid, and turned the key and the pump is working in the "start" position, I guess it is already pressurized so it doesnt have to run for a few seconds like I thought it would.
UPDATE:
I tried to start it a few times, but it looks like its not getting gas.. I know the fuel is getting to the injectors, I dont know if the injector is working or not.. the engine will start off of a little bit of carb cleaner, but dies after running a little bit.
I'm afraid that the distributer timing is off but It seems like its not getting gas.
Is there someway of testing for power going to the injectors? or to test the injectors themselves?
soo close.
Thanks,
Brendan
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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highmtndesert
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 10/22/02
Posts: 1476
Loc: Grand Jct. Colorado
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Take the over the valve cover pipe off. Have someone crank the engine, while you look in the intake. You should see the injectors squirting.
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Well on my way to becoming that eccentric old man in every town.(crazy as a s#@thouse rat) With a yard full of desireable old vehicles that tells you, Sorry they're not for sale..... Someday I'm going to fix them.
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
Take the over the valve cover pipe off. Have someone crank the engine, while you look in the intake. You should see the injectors squirting.
Sorry I should have mentioned we tried that and didn't see anything coming out of them. I suppose that can be part of the problem?
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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MontyMcV
Trail Leader
Reged: 06/04/03
Posts: 7042
Loc: Cleve-burg OH USA
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Did you do the quick and easy check to see that the fuel line into the TB has fuel/pressure? If not, be careful not to spray fuel everywhere when you pull the line. Throw a rag over it once you set the driver on the screw.
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Big Truck 2: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 94k, stock for now
Big Truck 1: 95, MT, >Gone<
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 29k miles!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12703
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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First, does it have spark? If it has no spark, it has no injection pulses.
Check the control relay connector as above, as it controls power everything on the fi - ecu, knock box, waste gate solenoid, injectors (via resistor), etc. If you followed my first Turbo Bible post on the B38 connector monty/starion interface, you may have a black/yellow wire wrong, depending on whether your ecu is for an a/t or m/t Starion.
The fuel pump runs for a fixed time, not to a given pressure, in ON position, and should run constantly in ign. START, IF you have the B38 wired right.
Make sure you have all the Starion grounds in the efi harness securely grounded. There are 3 in the engine compartment, I think. One small two wire black/red pips w/ ring connector on the harness branch to the knock box, one fat and fatter black two wire with fat ring lug between knock box branch and TBI part of harness, and one single wire near TBI that should ground to TB. Think there's another gnd near the ecu/control relay.
You can check for spark without cranking by running a steel screwdriver into and out of the gap between the pole piece and the triangle prongs in the dizzy, or spin the removed dizzy by hand (ground the dizzy body to the block), or just crank the motor.
Report back on spark, and we'll go from there.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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