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I think what you are seeing is just the difference in manufacturering tolerances, because of the caster setting readings.

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Maybe, but I've seen others post here (DougB comes to mind) that they also have 2 x 2mm on the left and 1 x 2mm on the right and the FSM gives those as standard as well - so I think the tolerances are pretty tight.

Anyway, with 2.5" of t-bar crank I'm operating pretty close to the droop limit and I notice that the camber change with movement is fairly pronounced so I hope the tires will wear ok. Considering the geometry at this much crank, a zero camber set makes a lot of sense to control tire edge wear.

I think I'll turn in a little more D/S caster, take out a shim on each side, load the rear with a "normal" everyday load - then take it back to the alignment shop and have him call the camber readings to me while I adjust the t-bars until I get it where I want it. I guess the question is whether I should put 225 lbs. in the driver seat while I'm adjusting it. Now that I think of it, there's a mechanic there just about my size.

Thanks again,
Frank

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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum

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So - I'll remove one shim from each side and relieve a little t-bar crank to get it slightly positive. No problemo. In combination with a toolbox in the rear it should straighten right up level and be good to go.

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Wooops.... back to school...... gotta go the other way for positive. By gosh, now I think I've got it! Since I'm now an ex-spurt, tomorrow I might as well go in the alignment bidness.

Frank

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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum

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You "were" right the first time. Remove them (shims) to bring it (camber) positive. The shim is between the cross-link, and the frame, and the cross-link is inside of the frame.

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Yes, I know..... it was which way I would need to go with the t-bars to fine-tune the camber that was confusing me after a couple of brandies. Now that the sun has come up I've decided that to get it right I'll definitely need to put some weight in the driver's seat. Now I'm wondering what the aerodynamics do to the front-end at highway speed. Probably with the cross-section profile and in combination with extra height there's a slight lift - which should make the front move toward positive negative. And - braking would make it go positive. So, the combination should (over time) even out tire wear. I'll definitely take your original advice and set it up at zero "as driven".

Don't mean to pick it to death, but there is a reason for tire wear and usually a way to resolve it - provided you can "see" what's happening. Wish I had a home alignment kit.

Frank

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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum

Edited by FrankR (06/23/04 09:23 AM)

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