Anonymous
Unregistered
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On the 88 4Runner V6 I just bought, one of the spark plugs(middle on passenger's side) was really tight and didn't want to come out. I started to spray PB Blaster around it hoping it will start to break it free. Are there any other tricks to getting a stuck plug loose without stripping the threads onthe aluminum head?
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Esquire812
Trail Leader
Reged: 04/25/02
Posts: 5688
Loc: Port Orchard, Washington
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Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and back her out. Could be that it was cross threaded on installation, or boogered a thread which is galling up digging a trench as you try and back it out. To fix it, got to get it out. Can always try tightening it back up then try pulling it again. might be enough to clear anything thats hampering it. Rare though... 
Hold your tongue just near the corner of your mouth, left side squint with your left eye and hum while pulling it. Sometimes this works and all you will have to do is chase threads. Flipside of that if tongue is out of position...you maybe dealing with an insert repair until a proper fix can be done with head off.
Get in there and give it hell man!
~Darin 
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88' 4x4 *22R-EB Gen II*
87' $Runner *22R-EB Gen I*
85' Sillyca 22R-Esq
"I LIVE IN MY OWN WORLD...THEY KNOW ME WELL THERE"
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toowacky
Wheeler
Reged: 11/14/02
Posts: 152
Loc: Pac NW
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Steel-aluminum corrosion can be broken by ammonia... yep, regular cleaning stuff. If that is indeed what is binding it.
Learned it from a guy named Sheldon Brown, a bicycle guru-- he uses it to remove Al seatposts that were seized to CrMo frames. Might be worth a shot. Tom
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1988 4Runner 22R-E W56
1989 4Runner 22R-E A340
1995.5 Rodeo 3.2L 5spd
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
On the 88 4Runner V6 I just bought, one of the spark plugs(middle on passenger's side) was really tight and didn't want to come out. I started to spray PB Blaster around it hoping it will start to break it free. Are there any other tricks to getting a stuck plug loose without stripping the threads onthe aluminum head?
It will come out the same way it went in, just be careful.
When you reinstall it, use a little hi-temp graphite/nickle/copper (whatever flavor turns you on) anti-seize on it to prevent it from sticking again.
Also, based on what you're saying, be ready with a thread chaser just in case the the worst happens.
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Best trick I've found for this is to try and remove while engine is hot. Evidently the differential expansion of aluminum and steel makes it not quite as tight.
After you get it out, be sure to follow previous advice and chase threads and use anti-seize.
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carter
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 06/22/00
Posts: 1002
Loc: The OC
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Quote:
Best trick I've found for this is to try and remove while engine is hot. Evidently the differential expansion of aluminum and steel makes it not quite as tight.
After you get it out, be sure to follow previous advice and chase threads and use anti-seize.
I've also found it easier to remove plugs when the engine is warmed up vs. being cold.
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Mike Carter
85 & 86 4Runners
My Website
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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I got the plug out last night with some help from a breaker bar and hammer and no apparent damage done. The plug was definitely not firing and covered with gas so I put a new one in and it's still not running smooth on all 6 cylinders. I've put on new cap, rotor and plugs. So I grabbed some new wires last night but it was 23 degrees out when I got home so they're not installed yet.
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