DougH
Mitsubishi Forum Moderator
Reged: 02/25/01
Posts: 9781
Loc: Putnam, CT
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I am pretty much done with the tear down of the engine. I have the heads off.... everything off... the only thing left is the crank bolt.
I decided to cut the timing belt off rather than wait to get the pulley off.
There were two recomended methods.
Fasteddy recomended using a breaker bar and a cheater pipe wedged against the frame, and then using the starter to break the bolt loose. Is this recomended. The LAST thing I want to do it to break the crank bolt in the crank shaft. I dont know if I can get the starter to work with everything off the block anyway. I guess I would have to put a ground strap on it some where.
The other way is to make the home made spanner, there were pictures. And then using a breaker bar and a cheater pipe.
This may sound kinda dumb, but is it threaded the same way as a normal bolt. Not sure how that work, if they would use a different hand thread being that it was on the tank.
I am going to see if the machine shop I work at over spring break can make a cool tool for me, but I wondered what would be the best method.
I am going to have to make a tool either way, so I can torque it back when I am done. I know I can get something to lock the flywheel... but the last thing I want to do right now is remove the starter to jam it up.
Thanks,
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DougH
1995 Sr. High speed dirt!
www.terminalstills.com
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Geophie
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 08/21/00
Posts: 1273
Loc: Elkins/Goshen, AR USA
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Your crank bolt should be a typical RH bolt.
This is how i removed the pulley bolt ('91 3.0):
-got my hands on a large adjustable plumber's wrench/monkey wrench,
-opened it up enough to get a bite on the pulley (i made the wrench bite with one jaw on the outside of the pulley on the belt side and the other jaw on the inside where the bolts are)
-then i got the breaker bar and turned the crank counterclockwise until the handle of the plumber's wrench was resting on something solid,
-then, "*squeak*" it came right out.
I was lucky to have only minor damage on the belt side of the crank pulley. Filed the bite marks down and repainted it.
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1991 4dr RS, ATK 3.0, auto. Now with zero trans fats!
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Hambone
Wheeler
Reged: 03/25/02
Posts: 124
Loc: NY
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Geophie
It won't be long before I am going to be doing this job as well. I've been reading along with DougH's post on this topic.
As I read your post I got to thinking. Could the pipe wrench be used a long with sections of the old belt? My thinking is that the belt should be able to provide the grip. I'm not sure if a single thickness of belt would be enough to keep the wrench jaws off the pulley, stacking sections of the belt might do it. Save from marring up the pulley.
The idea seems like a good one. No???
Any links to the home made wrench/crank holding tool/widgit to remove the thingy(crank pulley bolt)??? TIA
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89 Raider 2.6L
89 Raider 3.0
Both history!!
KIA for rainy cold weather KLR650 most of the time!
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MarkG
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 02/01/01
Posts: 2228
Loc: Scaly Mountain, NC, USA
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One might also use a chain vise grip. It's a regular looking vise grip, but with an 18 inch section of chain. You can also get extension pieces of chain to grip larger items.
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83 4D55 Turbo Diesel 4wd Pickup - Rebuilding
89 6G72 Raider 2dr, ARB Bullbar, Warn Winch, Aisin Hubs, 31x10.5, Cobra CB, Hella Fogs, Bilsteins, PAJERO Badges, Misc AU Parts
95 6G72 Montero 4dr, Aisin Hubs
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cragdweller
Mudrunner
Reged: 06/08/02
Posts: 463
Loc: Oregon
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Two words: Impact Wrench!!
Borrow an air compressor and a good half inch drive gun and bust the thing loose.
I have used the breaker bar against the frame method and bumped the starter. Engine rotation is clockwise, so put the breaker bar against the driver side frame rail by the steering box. I found that an old broken torque wrench was just the right length. Make sure the crank is turned clockwise enough to take up the slack in the breaker bar. Then, just bump the starter for a half second. It'll break it loose.
The impact is the prefered method, and you probably always wanted one anyway!! Just make sure to buy one with at least 600 foot-pounds of torque.
The Mitsu crank bolt isn't usually too hard to get off. I did a Honda timing belt recently and had to go rent a one inch impact gun to twist that crank bolt off!! My kick ass 1/2 inch unit wouldn't even touch it! Even with the huge one inch unit, I had to set it at max torque and run the compressor up all the way. Finally came loose.
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1994 3.0L 4x4 pickup.
4.62 gears (4.22 stock), 33x10.5 BFG MTs. LSD rear. Five speed trans. 172K
Previously owned Mitsubishis:
1986 2.6L 4x4 Mighty Max, 1985 2.6L 4x4 D50
1987 2.6L Raider, 1989 3.0L Raider
1995 Montero SR
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Is the oil pan off? I used a large wrench and placed it across the oil pan mounting flange and turned the bolt until the crank rested on the wrench. It stopped the crank from turning while I loosened the bolt.
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Alex Kogan
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 04/03/00
Posts: 1664
Loc: Portland, OR
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Here is mine write up on replacing water pump/timing belt and tool I fabricated for puley removal.
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92 SR, 285/75R16 Yoko MT ARB locker GAST compressor AirLift 1000 MM10500 Snorkel custom rear bumper
02 Montero LS died protecting the master
08 PowerWagon (stock!)
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DougH
Mitsubishi Forum Moderator
Reged: 02/25/01
Posts: 9781
Loc: Putnam, CT
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quote:
Originally posted by Alex Kogan:
Here is mine write up on replacing water pump/timing belt and tool I fabricated for puley removal.
THAT, is a bad ass tool. ![[Big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
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DougH
1995 Sr. High speed dirt!
www.terminalstills.com
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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DougH,
Seeing that Alex is in Jersey too, why don't you ply him with some beverage of his choice to borrow the tool. It would save time and money. Just an idea.
Gord
PS I have a 3/4 inch drive set, I did a crank bolt on a minivan and I used a pipe wrench with the jaws wrapped in an old bicycle tyre tube. I didn't have jaw mark issues.
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Geophie
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 08/21/00
Posts: 1273
Loc: Elkins/Goshen, AR USA
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I can't recall what method i used to reinstall and correctly torque the crankbolt though. I think i may have used an old v-belt and visegrips, not sure.
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1991 4dr RS, ATK 3.0, auto. Now with zero trans fats!
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