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Here is the deal. I am trying to find out what is causing the vibration demon I have been chasing for a month now.

I want to drop the rear drive shaft, lock my hubs and put the t-case in 4hi and drive 2-3 blocks to see if my vibration stops. I only need to achieve 20mph to see if it disappears.

I'm tired of wasting time chasing the problem. The parts I have replaced so far were needed so it hasn't been a waste of money, but it's now to the point that If I just start throwing parts at it will be a waste of time & money.

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Here is the deal. I am trying to find out what is causing the vibration demon I have been chasing for a month now.

I want to drop the rear drive shaft, lock my hubs and put the t-case in 4hi and drive 2-3 blocks to see if my vibration stops. I only need to achieve 20mph to see if it disappears.

I'm tired of wasting time chasing the problem. The parts I have replaced so far were needed so it hasn't been a waste of money, but it's now to the point that If I just start throwing parts at it will be a waste of time & money.

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You do not indicate what steps you have taken to this point. In general, vibrations can be tires out of balance, tie-rod and ball joints, wheel bearings, motor/transmission mounts, and drive shaft u-joints or CV joints.

Dropping the drive shaft will not tell you much. Needing to only get to about 20 mph indicates you do have a problem.

If you feel the vibration through the steering wheel, concentrate on front-end issues. If you feel the vibration through the flooring, look for motor/transmission mounts, wheel bearing, and driveshaft problems.

U-joint and CV joint problems start with vibrations and quickly move to visual problems.

As to your specific question about driving in 4wd with rear driveshaft removed...

No problem. As noted, you will be underpowered and steering will have an odd feel and sensitive. You can go to normal highway speed and distance is not restricted. Again, your steering will be more sensitive.

BTDT....

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All the front wheel bearings including the needle bearing that supports the axle shafts were replaced. I also replaced both axle shafts as they were pitted where the neeede bearings rode.

The whole vehicle vibrates. It starts at 20mph, gets better around 30 than at 50-55 mph the rear view mirror shajse so bad that you can not see out of it and the dorr mirrors shake as well.

I dropped the rear drive shaft last night and the u-joint at the t-case was rough and felt if like it was full of sand. The u-joint at the rear diff felt like it had notches in it.

Upon removoing the rear drive shaft I set the emergengy brake & ran it from 1st-4th gear getting it 60mph and had no vibration what so ever.

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All the front wheel bearings including the needle bearing that supports the axle shafts were replaced. I also replaced both axle shafts as they were pitted where the neeede bearings rode.

The whole vehicle vibrates. It starts at 20mph, gets better around 30 than at 50-55 mph the rear view mirror shajse so bad that you can not see out of it and the dorr mirrors shake as well.

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All the front wheel bearings including the needle bearing that supports the axle shafts were replaced. I also replaced both axle shafts as they were pitted where the neeede bearings rode.

The whole vehicle vibrates. It starts at 20mph, gets better around 30 than at 50-55 mph the rear view mirror shajse so bad that you can not see out of it and the dorr mirrors shake as well.

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With the first, I would have saved time and replaced the u-joints.

That type of vibration is characteristic of drive shaft u-joint.

Glad you found it befor losing the drive shaft!!

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The front wheel bearings were starting to go so it was not a complete waste. I also thought it was something in the front end as the steering wheel would shake as well at 20mph. I did do a short drive with the rear drive shaft removed and the steering wheel shake disappeared as well.

I tried to do the u-joints tonight myself but me and u-joints have never got along and tonight ws no exception.
I also only have a small vice and the bench it is bolted to isn't very sturdy so that didn't help. The one cap I did manage to get out only contained metal dust from what was once the needle rollers.

I had called a machine shop today to see what they would charge and they quoted me $35. Well worth it to me. That's a lot cheaper than me messing up the drive shaft or the u-joint flanges.

Edited by promodmerc (07/12/12 12:12 AM)

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