PA_JERO
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 11/01/04
Posts: 1057
Loc: Gilbert, AZ
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Quote:
Everyone knows what i'm gonna suggest. 
Best suggestion ever! 
I didn't start having an issue with the half shaft popping out until the first time I blew one up on both of my gen 1's. Once I pulled everything apart to replace it and reassembled it, the problem started. The first gen 1 actually ended up being a really easy fix in the end. I replaced with an OE clip first and didn't work. So I went to a local hardware store and just found one a tad bit thicker than stock. Never had this problem again. The 2nd gen 1 (current) I have actually yet to solve this issue ever since I blew up the first half shaft. I think part of this reason is becasue of how chewed up the inner part of the carrier has gotten from dislodging twisted splines that are seized up inside (not fun).
In my opinion. Buy a thicker C-clip, If you have to do a little bit of filing to make a good fit then do so. No sense in machining anything or customizing anything until all of the easier possible solutions have been tried. 
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!!!!!!!!!!!!!WHAT ABOUT BOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Quote:
problem seems to be that the shaft is not long enough
That's what she said...
I'm tearing it down to have a looksee. Been blistering hot and this fatboy don't move well in it. May try Pajero's suggestion on a thicker circlip. Only concern on that is getting it socked home. It was such a bastard to get in, a thicker clip will make it all the more fun...
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Was noodlin this around in my head some and talking to fasteddy about it. A thought came to mind about leaving the outer circlip off. Any harm? What's its purpose anyway? Possibly to apply outward force after compression of the joint to return the joint to "rest"? Anybody give this any thought or have a reason why I shouldn't try this?
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Just another idiot...
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justice
Roll Me Over
Reged: 02/06/00
Posts: 3163
Loc: Coastal N Carolina, USA
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Try it. The stub shaft cant really go that far back anyway. Half the time when I've taken the hub covers off, the damn clip is already off just sitting there in the grease. Let it float and see what happens. The worst you can do is strip the splines or maybe the hub splines. It may be there to keep the wheel seals in the knuckle riding on the right surface.
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99 Gen 2.5, fixing, awaiting build
89 SWB- 33's, ARB Front locker, SR rear locker/axle, SR F brakes, winch, WST Offroad Armor all Around, 2.85 Aussie T-case Gears
Sold: (2) 95 SR's, 86 SWB, 90LWB, 91 LWB
-Can Change a timing belt in my sleep..
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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I had two thoughts in talking with HD. One, if you leave the circlip off, what pulls the axle back out after it's been compressed? How much can it sink in the hub bore before the splines get into the needle bearings - i.o.w., how much does the cv axle compress, and does it self-expand.
Second, Larry says he has to push the axle stub into the hub to get the circlip to seat in the groove when the axle is drooped on the jack and resting on the bump stop. This appears to me to be the problem. When flexing on the trail, every full droop whangs the internal circlip in the diff out of it's slot, especially if the lower bump stop gets compressed.
My suggestion was to remove the outer circlip and see if that solves the problem without eating the hub needle bearings, since Larry has all the parts to fix it on the shelf. If it doesn't, then remove the cv axle and widen the circlip groove towards the outer end with a whiz wheel.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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geocrasher
Mudrunner
Reged: 09/10/11
Posts: 379
Loc: Castle Rock WA, US
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Forgive me if this is naive, but whats wrong with putting the clip on and then hitting it with a spot weld? Its not load bearing and would still come off fairly easily with a BFH. Maybe a spot weld in the right spot would work to retain it, without actually joining the clip to the axle shaft.
I'm not intimately familiar with the setup like you guys are though, so may be that's not even possible.
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1987 Raider, 344K miles and going strong
31" tires, otherwise stock.
How to include pictures in threads on 4x4wire (Youtube video)
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justice
Roll Me Over
Reged: 02/06/00
Posts: 3163
Loc: Coastal N Carolina, USA
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because the issue is that the outer clip pulls on the outer portion of the axle and ultimately pulls the stub shaft out of the diff on the inner side. welding the clip on the outer shaft would accomplish the opposite of what needs to happen.
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99 Gen 2.5, fixing, awaiting build
89 SWB- 33's, ARB Front locker, SR rear locker/axle, SR F brakes, winch, WST Offroad Armor all Around, 2.85 Aussie T-case Gears
Sold: (2) 95 SR's, 86 SWB, 90LWB, 91 LWB
-Can Change a timing belt in my sleep..
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geocrasher
Mudrunner
Reged: 09/10/11
Posts: 379
Loc: Castle Rock WA, US
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Quote:
because the issue is that the outer clip pulls on the outer portion of the axle and ultimately pulls the stub shaft out of the diff on the inner side. welding the clip on the outer shaft would accomplish the opposite of what needs to happen.
Understandable. What about welding the clip that holds the stub shaft in?
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1987 Raider, 344K miles and going strong
31" tires, otherwise stock.
How to include pictures in threads on 4x4wire (Youtube video)
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haztoys
Rock Warrior
Reged: 08/03/09
Posts: 629
Loc: Prescott AZ
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Had one come out running the "0" car checking the log book on my DOHC 4g64 turbo Monty in a stage rally at about 70 mph over a yump...  .. My a$$ is still pucked over it .. Pulled me off the road just messed a tree.. Tree took off the mirror ...Cut the upper a-arm in two ...My deal really I forgot to unlook the hubs ..  ...
Drill the end of the outer CV stub and put a bolt and washer as Toyota's do dont use the c-clip at all ....Pull the CV apart and cut back the cups so the axle is not binding at full droop on the out eage of the cup..Cut the ball case on the CV's back ... Cut the locking hug back at the spined cupler .. Cut the back of the hub back at body where it meets the wheel hub on the back...Leave the seal hagging out a little on the CV to spindle to help seal ...
Are your bump stops cut or cracked ..? Gen2 arms ..? What sort or shape at the a-arm bushings in..?
( In stage rally racing a small rise in the road that the car will get alttle air and get light at speed is called a "yump"... A jump is called ..A jump... as in getting major air in a rally log book...)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I have Gen2 UCA's and both upper & lower bump stops are cut. When I'm working on it, it's at full droop. So the only further droop would be in bump stop compression, which would be minimal. I cycled it up and down last night and the joint appears to return to rest on it's own, centrifugal force will only help it. Going to try running it without the outer circlip and report back with results. If that works, I may get new lower bump stops and cut them less than the first and maybe try the circlip again...
Thanks for the help on this
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Just another idiot...
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