lhedrick
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 10/27/08
Posts: 58
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Hi All
After installing new springs and getting a rusted gas tank fixed up, I now have another item to deal with.
My T100 is a 1994 with the 3.0L V6 3V3e engine.
Way back in 1999 I had head gasket work done on a a recall. While they did the gasket work I had them also install a new belt. The truck now has 140,000 miles and run fine.
So I guess it's time for a new timing belt. Was wondering how big a job it is? How many hours? What the cost would be if I have a shop do it (not a dealer).
How long does a water pump last?
Is it time to replace tensioners and idlers?
Just wondering if any of you have taken on this job and would do it again or have a shop do it.
L
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Snowtoy
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/10/02
Posts: 3545
Loc: Grass Valley, CA
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This '93FSM will walk you through the process step-by-step w/plenty of pictures. The procedure is in the Engine section.
For a shop or dealership you are likely looking at around $400 for 2-3hrs labor and the cost of a new belt.
According to the dealership, Toyota no longer recommends changing he water pump every 80k along with the t-belt, they now only recommend replacing it when it starts to weep, leak, make noise, etc.
--------------------
More than tread lightly. Leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else.
'90 X-cab 4.88's 33 BFG AT's, rr ARB, Headers, Ignition upgrade, cold air induction.
'91 X-cab 5.29's 315's BFG MT's, rr ARB, custom bumper and flatbed
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BamZipPow
Mudrunner
Reged: 02/05/07
Posts: 473
Loc: League City, TX
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Quote:
According to the dealership, Toyota no longer recommends changing he water pump every 80k along with the t-belt, they now only recommend replacing it when it starts to weep, leak, make noise, etc.
Of course not...they can double their labor profits if the pump fails after the timing belt is replaced. I haven't found a service center that will apply labor costs to a failed water pump after the timing belt was replaced. 
I guess you could go every other timing belt replacement on the water pump... 
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1998 T-100 Xtra cab SR5 2WD Auto; Roadmaster Active Suspension; Yokohama Geolander HT-S; lowered air dam; full belly pan; 4° diffuser; 11" side skirts; dual transmission coolers; 67% grill blocked; Auto-RX'd; ScanGauge II/Ultra-Gauge
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lhedrick
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 10/27/08
Posts: 58
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It took a few days but my T100 is back up with a new timing belt.
This is big job. There might be some short cuts but I don't know them
remove
alternator belt
AC belt (adjuster all rusted up)
power steering belt
front grill (to get to the 4 radiator bolts)
fan shroud
radiator
fan
fan clutch
studs from upper radiator hose mount (so the belt cover can be removed)
front cam cover
break the crank bolt free (parking brake on engine in gear, not too bad)
power steering shiv on crank
power steering pump (it was in the way)
balancer (had to buy a puller at auto zone 15 bucks)
timing belt
water pump (still Okay but, 18 year old, no point in pushing it, got a new one)
cam bolts (these took days, I had to get a tool to hold the cams,
my homemade version just bent, the tool was 40 dollars,
also got a 20 inch 3/4 breaker bar and impact socket for 25 dollars
they were still tough. They did not come loose until I applied heat
to the head of the bolts. I found specs which said 80 ft/lb.
I know I applied at least 200 on the first attempt.
cam pulleys
rear cover
upper idler
the old idle had play in the bearings
tensioner and right idler (still seem okay, but got a new one)
New parts
alternator belt
power steering belt
AC belt
upper radiator hose
lower radiator hose
lower bypass hose
timing belt
water pump
thermostat
upper idler
tensioner idler (old tensioner seemed okay)
tools and parts $425. I'm sure all this would have been 1200 at a dealer and with fed and state income tax on a persons earnings it would take a pay check of about 1600 to clear enough to pay the bill. I would do it again. Not fun but, I would do it again. I also know it was done right!
#1 piston up on compression
cam gear lined up using factory marks
installing the belt took some time as I had to move the left gear to get the belt on then rotate it back to alignment and double check. Wrap the belt around the right gear and install on cam. Bolt down idler and install tensioner. Rotate crank 2 times and check crank and cam positions again. Torque cam gear bolts to 80 ft/lb. Torque Crank shaft balancer bolt to 180 ft/lb.
Put all the rest of the crap back on. Fill with water and fire it up. Test drive and all seems fine. No leaks! Next day drain the water and add antifreeze.
This is not a difficult job but it takes time when you don't do this stuff everyday. You have got to go slow, not brake bolts or pull threads out of the aluminum, remembering we have an aluminum block. Anyone can do it, just take your time and never force things. Make damn sure not to cross thread bolts. Clean water pump surface area and use good sealer, the new pump came with a gasket. A leak means taking it all appart and starting over. Toyota is lame in only using sealer and not using gaskets.
I have to say this seems to be a dumb design. All this work just to replace a belt and water pump. A water pump job on an old 70s Chevy inline 6 truck only takes 1/2 hour. I know modern engines are more efficient but,,,,,,,, with the cost of maintaining all these things at 100 dollar plus shop rates I doubt much is saved on fuel in the long run.
Will my 1994 T100 now go another 18 years? I hope so, there is no truck like this on the market today. I like my old T100 manual 5 speed more then the new Tundra by a mile.
Edited by lhedrick (05/13/12 04:05 PM)
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Greg_Canada
Roll Me Over
Reged: 08/25/03
Posts: 2809
Loc: Toronto, Canada
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Quote:
It took a few days but my T100 is back up with a new timing belt.
This is big job. There might be some short cuts but I don't know them
remove
alternator belt
AC belt (adjuster all rusted up)
power steering belt
front grill (to get to the 4 radiator bolts)
fan shroud
radiator
fan
fan clutch
studs from upper radiator hose mount (so the belt cover can be removed)
front cam cover
break the crank bolt free (parking brake on engine in gear, not too bad)
power steering shiv on crank
power steering pump (it was in the way)
balancer (had to buy a puller at auto zone 15 bucks)
timing belt
water pump (still Okay but, 18 year old, no point in pushing it, got a new one)
cam bolts (these took days, I had to get a tool to hold the cams,
my homemade version just bent, the tool was 40 dollars,
also got a 20 inch 3/4 breaker bar and impact socket for 25 dollars
they were still tough. They did not come loose until I applied heat
to the head of the bolts. I found specs which said 80 ft/lb.
I know I applied at least 200 on the first attempt.
cam pulleys
rear cover
upper idler
the old idle had play in the bearings
tensioner and right idler (still seem okay, but got a new one)
New parts
alternator belt
power steering belt
AC belt
upper radiator hose
lower radiator hose
lower bypass hose
timing belt
water pump
thermostat
upper idler
tensioner idler (old tensioner seemed okay)
tools and parts $425. I'm sure all this would have been 1200 at a dealer and with fed and state income tax on a persons earnings it would take a pay check of about 1600 to clear enough to pay the bill. I would do it again. Not fun but, I would do it again. I also know it was done right!
#1 piston up on compression
cam gear lined up using factory marks
installing the belt took some time as I had to move the left gear to get the belt on then rotate it back to alignment and double check. Wrap the belt around the right gear and install on cam. Bolt down idler and install tensioner. Rotate crank 2 times and check crank and cam positions again. Torque cam gear bolts to 80 ft/lb. Torque Crank shaft balancer bolt to 180 ft/lb.
Put all the rest of the crap back on. Fill with water and fire it up. Test drive and all seems fine. No leaks! Next day drain the water and add antifreeze.
This is not a difficult job but it takes time when you don't do this stuff everyday. You have got to go slow, not brake bolts or pull threads out of the aluminum, remembering we have an aluminum block. Anyone can do it, just take your time and never force things. Make damn sure not to cross thread bolts. Clean water pump surface area and use good sealer, the new pump came with a gasket. A leak means taking it all appart and starting over. Toyota is lame in only using sealer and not using gaskets.
I have to say this seems to be a dumb design. All this work just to replace a belt and water pump. A water pump job on an old 70s Chevy inline 6 truck only takes 1/2 hour. I know modern engines are more efficient but,,,,,,,, with the cost of maintaining all these things at 100 dollar plus shop rates I doubt much is saved on fuel in the long run.
Will my 1994 T100 now go another 18 years? I hope so, there is no truck like this on the market today. I like my old T100 manual 5 speed more then the new Tundra by a mile.
Nice write up.
1 thing, aluminum heads, cast iron block...
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89 4Runner
3" BL, M/T locks, 33"bfg mt, bilstein, Kayline, tubebumper, toyotafiberglass panels
TBI: Elocker,3.4 w/ORS,b+b,S2Sstg2cams,arias pistons,P+P intake,TRDs/c,URDpullies+7th,downey headers,MAPECU2,WEGO WB, SupraMAF,walboro255,stg4clutch, EPaOo2 sim
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Snowtoy
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/10/02
Posts: 3545
Loc: Grass Valley, CA
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Quote:
Quote:
According to the dealership, Toyota no longer recommends changing he water pump every 80k along with the t-belt, they now only recommend replacing it when it starts to weep, leak, make noise, etc.
Of course not...they can double their labor profits if the pump fails after the timing belt is replaced. I haven't found a service center that will apply labor costs to a failed water pump after the timing belt was replaced.
I guess you could go every other timing belt replacement on the water pump...
With the pumps lasting over 200k, swapping every other t-belt shouldn't keep you from having to go in for a bad pump inbetween a belt change.
--------------------
More than tread lightly. Leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else.
'90 X-cab 4.88's 33 BFG AT's, rr ARB, Headers, Ignition upgrade, cold air induction.
'91 X-cab 5.29's 315's BFG MT's, rr ARB, custom bumper and flatbed
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Snowtoy
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/10/02
Posts: 3545
Loc: Grass Valley, CA
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|
Quote:
It took a few days but my T100 is back up with a new timing belt.
This is big job. There might be some short cuts but I don't know them
Given all the components that have to be removed, a couple days to do the job for a first time attempt isn't bad at all. Having done a couple now, I can't think of any short cuts that would make the process go any faster.
--------------------
More than tread lightly. Leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else.
'90 X-cab 4.88's 33 BFG AT's, rr ARB, Headers, Ignition upgrade, cold air induction.
'91 X-cab 5.29's 315's BFG MT's, rr ARB, custom bumper and flatbed
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