DamKia
Kia Moderator
Reged: 02/10/03
Posts: 2243
Loc: Gold Coast, Queensland, Austra...
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As above.
Please keep all comments about timing belt replacement here for future ease use.
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.p...amp;Search=true
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.p...amp;Search=true
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.p...amp;Search=true
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.p...amp;Search=true
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.p...amp;Search=true
Thes should give an overview of what to do to replace the timing belt.
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2002 Sporty , Ironman 2.5" spring, 2" body, 15 x 7 ROH wheels, K&N, 15 x 10.5 Simex Centipedes, Powerchip 91.
"Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level then beat you with experience!"
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Sportege_Panicmech
Mudrunner
Reged: 12/03/09
Posts: 427
Loc: Cda, Idaho
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ADVANCE, OE, OR RETARD CAM TIMING.
You really don't need a timing light to set timing belt as timing is monitored by the exhaust cam sensor. I once tried to advance both intake and exhaust 1 tooth and And I wouldn't even mess with changing exhaust timing at all. found this out the "easy" way, lol. Ran like crap. So I set the exhaust back to OE and set the intake 1 tooth advanced as I did the prior attempt. I ran it that way for a few years untill a few months ago. Felt better low end a little. Then I tried the intake cam one tooth BEHIND and it seems to loose the low end a bit but then wakes up in the higher rpms a little. But neither has really made a big difference. I think OE or 1 tooth advance if you want more torque.. especially if you own an automatic, don't bother advancing the intake cam because you'll never get the benefit of increased HP in the high RPMS as the transmission shifts before you get there. Friend's sportage is auto. I'd suggest the 1 tooth advanced method for auto's as they tend to stay in the low rpms and that's where the torque increased by doing this.
If we had adjustable cam gears, then I might tinker with my exhaust cam timing to attempt to advance my ignition timing a little, but a tooth advanced is too much. I think a little advance of the ignition timing would be a bigger trade off the the advanced exhaust cam. I could be totally off on this though, lol.
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Videos of my Sportage in 30" of snow and doing reverse 4wd cookies
Panicmech Cardomain - Headlight 'tinting' tutorial included
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blitz
Wheeler
Reged: 12/21/04
Posts: 240
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i think your right pan. some way to advance the timing just a little would be great. ive heard of relocating knock sensors before. any ideas?
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/788013
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DRX350
Wheeler
Reged: 09/28/09
Posts: 182
Loc: San Diego, California
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It would be your knock sensor, it'd be your cam position sensor.
Move it counter the cam's rotation 1 degree will give you 2 degrees of ignition advance...
...I think
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"Does this part need to be in there?"
1996 Dodge 1500 single cab / short bed, 5.9 4x4; 2" lift (springs not blocks), C.A.I and more mods to come.
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Sportege_Panicmech
Mudrunner
Reged: 12/03/09
Posts: 427
Loc: Cda, Idaho
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That sounds bout right.. You don't want to mess with your nock sensor as this senses the onset of knocking and then the ECU pulls your ignition timing back to prevent it from getting worse.. It's only a matter of a second or two that the timing returns to normal.. This only happens under the harshest of conditions and mostly on boosted engines.. too much heat and boost combined will cause knocking.. an N/A motor rarely has this problem, but the knock sensor is a fail safe that saves your motor from destroying itself from over advancing the timing when the conditions are wrong for it.. I've been using a smartphone app to monitor my timing and it totally varies depending on throttle % and other things.. At idle it typically is 0-2 degrees advanced.. when you start to load it up and rev it up the timing shoots up to 22+ advanced. I have thought about 'slotting' the exhaust cam position sensor as that is primarily what the ECU bases it's spark timing.. That way I could pull timing back once I boost mine.. This would be tricking the computer to fire later which is proper for boosted appications, however now that i'm thinking about this deeper.. the fuel injector timing would be equally affected. would probably be fine under near to full WOT conditions but at idle I might inadvertently cause the injectors to fire fuel as the valves are closing. The fuel would inevitably be pulled in on the next opening of the valve but would that affect atomization maybe? It's one of those things where I'll just try it in baby steps and see what happens. If I feel improvement then i'll be encouraged to push it further, if it just runs worse then I'd return it to stock position. For the N/A applications, you'd wanna try slotting it advanced. Baby steps.. I have suspicions that the Protege Cam gears are interchangable with ours. I should hit up my friend who has his and see. If so, then we would be able to order the Ford Probe Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears and use the on our FE3 Engines. This would allow us to mess with the cams in small increments and if we slotted the ex. cam sensor we could adjust it to match the offset of the cam so that the ignition timing remains the same. (=
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Videos of my Sportage in 30" of snow and doing reverse 4wd cookies
Panicmech Cardomain - Headlight 'tinting' tutorial included
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