red1987raider
Wheeler
Reged: 05/13/06
Posts: 119
Loc: Maine
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Hello, everyone. I've dropped a 4D56T into my '87 Raider. Problem: can't get tach to work. I've bought a Dakota Digital interface and run a wire from the hall effect sensor through it to the stock gas tach — it didn't work. So I bought a Shogun diesel tach from a guy in the UK and ran the line straight from the hall effect sensor — it didn't work. I've tried every possible combination of switches on the Dakota Digital gizmo — it didn't work. Some background: my engine is one of the "newer" 4D56Ts, made in 1995 (I was told). It was a long block, so I had to buy a used mechanical injector pump separately. I have called in an electrical engineer, and have been on the phone with a couple of helpful guys from this forum — nothing worked. I am convinced that somewhere out there is a genius with the answer. If anyone can help me, I am happy to offer you a fishing weekend at my home in Maine (see image). I live on the Penobscot River with some of the best bass fishing in the east. All you need to do is get here and you will have a place to sleep, all meals, and use of my canoe. I will also spring for a weekend non-resident fishing license. I am desperate. Thank you so much!
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1987 Dodge Raider converted to 4D56T
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TOASTY
Trail Leader
Reged: 01/17/02
Posts: 5012
Loc: Gilbert AZ, US.
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Maybe the sensor is bad or Maybe just run your tach off of your alternator since you have a dakota deal.
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Az Crew, full fledged member!
"Strange things are afoot at the Circle-K." -Ted.
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red1987raider
Wheeler
Reged: 05/13/06
Posts: 119
Loc: Maine
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Thanks for your reply. Yes, I've been thinking of that. My alternator came off a Dodge D50 and has no W terminal for the tach lead, so I've been putting off taking it to an alternator shop to have one installed. There's a different Dakota Digital converter for the alternator pulse — fortunately I have one of those. So you're right, this might be the best way to go. If I'm successful I'll post it on the forum.
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1987 Dodge Raider converted to 4D56T
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JeffatTireBalls
Wheeler
Reged: 09/17/06
Posts: 150
Loc: Kentucky
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I'm running the exact setup and it's working great. I can't emagine what's wroing unless the converter is bad.
Here is the way mine is setup...all of my dip switches are up if you can't tell from the pic.
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99 Montero SR
Mazda B2600i with 4D56T diesel swap http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1240274&page=0&vc=1&PHPSESSID=#Post1240274
Edited by JeffatTireBalls (03/24/12 11:00 AM)
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red1987raider
Wheeler
Reged: 05/13/06
Posts: 119
Loc: Maine
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Hi, Jeff. Thanks for your reply. The converter you're showing (DSL-1D) picks up its signal from your alternator. I'm using the SGI-8D, which picks up the pulse from the hall effect sensor on the injector pump. Tell me if I'm mistaken here. I've decided to pull my alternator (it's from an old D50) and take it to my local electrical shop to have them install a W terminal. Then I can use the DSL-1D converter that you have. I'll let you know how it goes.
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1987 Dodge Raider converted to 4D56T
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JeffatTireBalls
Wheeler
Reged: 09/17/06
Posts: 150
Loc: Kentucky
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Mine is hooked up to the injection pump not the alternator, I do not have a W wire on my alternator.
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99 Montero SR
Mazda B2600i with 4D56T diesel swap http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1240274&page=0&vc=1&PHPSESSID=#Post1240274
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red1987raider
Wheeler
Reged: 05/13/06
Posts: 119
Loc: Maine
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Jeff, according to Dakota Digital, your set-up should not be working (don't scientists say a bumblebee should not be able to fly?). Here's what Dakota Digital told me when I used the DSL-1 converter that you've connected to your injector pump:
"The DSL-1 is not designed for a low frequency pulse like the fuel. It is designed to read a high frequency off the alternator. While it is sensing the signal, the output is too low to make your tach work. You should be using the SGI-8 for the hall effect sensor."
Go figure. Is there someone out there who can clear this up?
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1987 Dodge Raider converted to 4D56T
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JeffatTireBalls
Wheeler
Reged: 09/17/06
Posts: 150
Loc: Kentucky
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Quote:
Jeff, according to Dakota Digital, your set-up should not be working (don't scientists say a bumblebee should not be able to fly?). Here's what Dakota Digital told me when I used the DSL-1 converter that you've connected to your injector pump:
"The DSL-1 is not designed for a low frequency pulse like the fuel. It is designed to read a high frequency off the alternator. While it is sensing the signal, the output is too low to make your tach work. You should be using the SGI-8 for the hall effect sensor."
Go figure. Is there someone out there who can clear this up?
Their wrong, mine's been working great for 8 months. I can even shoot a video of it running and working if they don't believe me.
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99 Montero SR
Mazda B2600i with 4D56T diesel swap http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1240274&page=0&vc=1&PHPSESSID=#Post1240274
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JeffatTireBalls
Wheeler
Reged: 09/17/06
Posts: 150
Loc: Kentucky
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Here are the blue signal in and signal ground wires that lead to the DSL-1. These plug into the factory tach pickup plug at the back of the pump...
Which runs up to the tach pickup itself on the side of the pump...
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99 Montero SR
Mazda B2600i with 4D56T diesel swap http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1240274&page=0&vc=1&PHPSESSID=#Post1240274
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JeffatTireBalls
Wheeler
Reged: 09/17/06
Posts: 150
Loc: Kentucky
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The dip switches are actually down not up.
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99 Montero SR
Mazda B2600i with 4D56T diesel swap http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1240274&page=0&vc=1&PHPSESSID=#Post1240274
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