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MTRaider
Need a Spot


Reged: 05/05/11
Posts: 8
Loc: Montana
Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L
      #1244196 - 05/05/11 01:48 PM

Hello to All,

I'm a newbie, so I apologize in advance for my future, unintended mistakes. I hope you will permit some latitude as I lay out my case. Thank you.

I inherited a 1988 Dodge Raider that I had bought for my oldest because it was too unreliable for him. That he had blown the engine was a consideration. I liked it more than him anyway, so much so that I hauled it from Florida to Montana, where it has sat undisturbed for a year and a half.

My ambition is to repair/restore the Raider, but I need help. Because rebuilding or replacing the motor is the only mandatory repair, I need the benefit of your collective experience in laying out the sources, costs, and pitfalls, so I can decide (and soon) whether I can take on the project, or whether I will be posting "parts available".

I am 58 yrs. old now, but I was a gearhead in my younger days, and I'm confident that I can do most of the work myself.

Any and all replies will be gratefully accepted.

--------------------
1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L


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off-roaderModerator
Mitsubishi Forum Moderator


Reged: 01/16/00
Posts: 16081
Loc: Bay Area, CA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: MTRaider]
      #1244197 - 05/05/11 01:55 PM

Welcome! I'm sure that those more versed in the 2.6 will chime in soon.

One question for you though is when you say "he had blown the engine", what exactly do you mean? A head gasket failure? Bottom end destruction due to oil starvation?

--------------------
Off Roader
96SR (3.15:1 xcase, 35's)
96SR Build Up Thread
Old web page
Old web page


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MTRaider
Need a Spot


Reged: 05/05/11
Posts: 8
Loc: Montana
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: off-roader]
      #1244226 - 05/05/11 09:05 PM

Thanks for the reply. To answer your question, I'm not exactly sure, but I have researched the cooling issues related to these engines. My guess, best case, is blown head gasket; worst case, cracked block. I should of mentioned that the engine has 137K miles on and blew a bit of smoke, so my reasoning is that if I go in to and find a head gasket I'm going to want to do a valve job. If I do that, I'll need to consider rings and bearings. If I'm going that far, I may as well get a new long block, or rebuild. Make any sense? Of course, you and others may tell me that it will cost a zillion dollars and that there are no reliable rebuilders or parts sources, etc, and I'll have to face the choice of praying for a blown head gasket, replacing it, and motoring on for a few more years. Not my first choice, which was more in line with a "Pimp the Raider" build. In these uncertain times, I'll have to take the best option I can afford.

I hope this gives you, and others seeing this for the first time, enough to work with. Thanks, again, for your help.

--------------------
1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L


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JohnnyBfromPeoria
Trail Leader


Reged: 06/10/02
Posts: 5880
Loc: Phoenix, AZ
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: MTRaider]
      #1244227 - 05/05/11 09:13 PM

Bottom end on the G54B, 2.6l I-4 is pretty stout. Shouldn't have gone south with that kind of mileage.

Clearwater cylinder heads in Clearwater, FL makes a new casting head that is a good all-in-one replacement. Fel-Pro gasket set and new head bolts, along with a bottoming tap run down the head bolt holes will redo the entire top end in one day.

There really aren't good sources for a reliably built long block, but the parts are certainly out there.

Good luck.

John B.

--------------------
'87 Raider 2.6 Turbo Auto, Under Construction
'95 Montero SR, 35x12.5/15 BFG M/T KM-2's, Rock sliders, Qtr panel chop, gas tank lift, 2" BL, Aisins
'86 SWB, 2" BL, 33" BFG KM-2's, 2.4l KM-148
2012 Chevy Camaro LS V6/M6 IPF S/C


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fasteddy
Web Wheeler


Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 13554
Loc: Alpharettta, GA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: JohnnyBfromPeoria]
      #1244231 - 05/05/11 09:45 PM

It is a good gamble to do the head. The blocks are very tough, unless you had a balance shaft bearing go and put metal in the oil. You would hear that as bearing noise if it was fried that way. Put a well charged battery in it and get/rent h compression tester and report the numbers. The cranking to do the compression test will show you any bearing noise. Look for oil pressure on the gauge as it is cranked, too.

Your costs are as follows, with alternates:

Rod out (about $100) or recore (about $250-300) the radiator as required. The cooling will be more than adequate then.

Pressure test your head to determine if it's easily repairable. Repair if sound (straighten to a straight cam bore, and resurface inside spec limits, service valves, replace any broken studs - you need to get a machine shop quote on all this, a few hundred. Otherwise, check with Clearwater Heads, Alabama Cylinder Head, or your machine shop for a new or rebuilt head. Go new if you can.

You'll need some other bits, all the hoses, a head gasket kit (get the one for an 89 Mitsu Starion and get the best head gasket), a set of one time use locking exhaust manifold gaskets, some gasket remover and a scraper to clean the block of all old gasket and gunk (spend LOTS of time and elbow grease doing this, and do it as well as possible), new belts, a new timing set is nice, too, while you're in there. I'd get a new set of hydraulic valve lash adjusters on a repaired head.

Pay real good attention to how you take the vac lines apart so you can hook all that mess back up right easy. There's a way to take it apart in big chunks that stay mostly with the intake mani/carb, the easiest way.

It's a weekend's work for one man, with a helper needed only once, in setting the new head very, very carefully and very straight on the nice new gasket on the nice shiny clean block top. I pull and set the head with the manifolds attached, bulkier/heavier, but much easier if you have the helper. I will not come to Montana. You should have stopped in GA on the way thru and we would have fixed it up for you...

--------------------
Not responsible for advice not taken...


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MTRaider
Need a Spot


Reged: 05/05/11
Posts: 8
Loc: Montana
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: fasteddy]
      #1244233 - 05/05/11 10:10 PM

Thanks John and Fasteddy for the feedback.

It would be a wonderful and ironic thing if I could solve the problem by moving from Sarasota, FL to Montana, only to find what I need in Clearwater, FL--about one hour from my old home. What a deal!

RE cooling, the radiator's good. A hose broke and my son ran it dry--residual damage.

Other symptoms to fill out the diagnosis: after replacing the hoses, steam out the carb (a rebuilt Mikuni-some $$ have been spent already) and oil in the coolant. It did run fine for a while, then I think the gasket let go. At least that's the theory. It also developed the habit of shutting down unexpectedly, but I think that may be electrical, a hot wire short maybe, since it would restart after a while.

What about flushing out the cooling system: Any areas in the block need special attention?

By the way, I did acquire a set of original tech manauls, so I'll have some references. As for vacuum lines, I say thank God for the digital camera!

Thanks, again, guys.

--------------------
1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L


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fasteddy
Web Wheeler


Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 13554
Loc: Alpharettta, GA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: MTRaider]
      #1244240 - 05/05/11 10:36 PM

OK, it's the head gasket. Don't let the gunk sit in the crankcase - the antifreeze will eat the bearings.

I'd rod the radiator just because I could. Worth doing. Nothing kills a 2.6 head quicker than heat, either a sudden overheat, or a chronic mild overheat will do the deed. Kept cool, they last a long, long time.

--------------------
Not responsible for advice not taken...


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MTRaider
Need a Spot


Reged: 05/05/11
Posts: 8
Loc: Montana
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: fasteddy]
      #1244245 - 05/06/11 12:15 AM

I hear you, I just hope I haven't gone too long on that.

What can I do to flush the crankcase and oil pathways? Anything for reconditioning the bottom end? Some additive to use, even for general purpose?

--------------------
1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L


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fasteddy
Web Wheeler


Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 13554
Loc: Alpharettta, GA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: MTRaider]
      #1244267 - 05/06/11 01:57 PM

Throw a half quart of dexron in the oil to wash the crankcase and oilways out by cranking the engine in 30sec bursts. Let it sit a few hours and drain the mess out. Do an oil change at 3 hours of engine run time on restart.

I forgot before. While the head is off, inspect the honing pattern on the thrust side of the cylinder wall (the highest wear area), and inspect the whole cylinder for scoring. If the thrust side (the exhaust side, if I've spun the engine right in my head) still has a discernable homing crosshatch pattern, and there are no scores in the rest of the wall that catch a fingernail, the bores at least are pretty good.

--------------------
Not responsible for advice not taken...


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Kevin C
Trail Leader


Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6079
Loc: No where in particular
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: MTRaider]
      #1244295 - 05/06/11 11:10 PM

If the motor was stalling, it could be a friction issue. Just to be sure, I would take the oil filter off, cut it open and check for bearing flakes. You may see some residue if you drain the oil, but most probably settled out.

When a motor with a bad head gasket sits, you often can get a pitted cylinder wall or cylinder wall rust. Once you get the head off post a couple of pictures. On my block it was bad enough to require a sleeve.

Kevin C

--------------------
87 Turbo Intercooled Raider, roller cam, torsen rear diff, LSD front diff, lockup auto with modified converter, V6 brakes, low transfer case gears...


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MTRaider
Need a Spot


Reged: 05/05/11
Posts: 8
Loc: Montana
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: Kevin C]
      #1244314 - 05/07/11 01:44 PM

Thanks for the feedback. I feel like an idiot. I know what to do to prepare a motor for long-term storage, but I guess I never thought it would take so long to get to a place where I could actually consider starting the project. Maybe I'll get lucky. I'll flush, drain it, and get the head off, then tell you what I see. Didn't feel like a friction issue, though.

Anymore 2.6L guys out there want to weigh in? If I'm going in, there must be some good I can do when putting it back together: Upgrades? Add-ons?

You all have been great, please keep it coming. Thanks.

--------------------
1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L


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JAVYPRO
Body Damage is Cool


Reged: 02/04/01
Posts: 1873
Loc: Buford, GA USA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: MTRaider]
      #1244322 - 05/07/11 07:00 PM

Welcome to the forum. So far, in a nutshell, you have received the best possible advise from the core of the engine gurus.
I will add that in my experience the bottom of the engine is pretty much bullet proof. I got 418, 000 on the odometer to prove it.

Some 2 years back, with Eddy's awesome help, I did the engine head with a clear water unit and it works great. Now it needs in-deep engine work but with my mileage it is an unavoidable forcoming.

My sugestion is- I chose this option- if you plan to do a full rebuild and you got the "know how", is get a trusty machine shop that can do the bottom- flush, clean, bore if needed, assemble- then get a new cast head and I guess you will know what to do next. My best guess is you can manage to get it in tip-top shape with $1,200 - $1,300. Way better than dropping $2,000+ on a core that who knows what was done to it.

Javy

--------------------
88 red Montero with the Dakar Special Edition decals, 438,000 miles (As of 7/23/2012) some occational blue puffing but still strong and counting!!! I am going ppsshhh (turbo), Stay tuned =) ...


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perucho
Getting the Wheeling Fever


Reged: 01/27/11
Posts: 95
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: MTRaider]
      #1244323 - 05/07/11 07:34 PM

You can find complete running engines pretty cheap. Check this one out: http://monterey.craigslist.org/pts/2348118307.html

Get something like than and then take your time rebuilding the one you have.

--------------------
Oscar


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plh
Body Damage is Cool


Reged: 11/15/08
Posts: 1260
Loc: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: MTRaider]
      #1244343 - 05/08/11 09:06 AM

Quote:



Upgrades? Add-ons?

You all have been great, please keep it coming. Thanks.




Grab a Starion or Conquest donor and swap in a turbo.

--------------------
  • 88 Raider: 5 spd, 4.62 LSD F & R, T/L, OME Rear Springs, KYB G/A, 33/12.5/15" MTZs, PLH LOs, Justice Bumper, Dual Bouncies, 4D56T in -running soon!
  • 1992 RS M/T
  • 1993 SR
  • 2005 Montero LTD
  • Gen 1 - PARTS FOR SALE
  • http://www.tuffpans.com


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MTRaider
Need a Spot


Reged: 05/05/11
Posts: 8
Loc: Montana
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: JAVYPRO]
      #1244361 - 05/08/11 12:56 PM

Thanks Javypro, you must have been reading my mind. My next question was going to be how much if I have to go past the head. Still in my budget, so far.

On another topic, so to speak, where do you all get parts? Any favored vendors? For example. I may need new exhaust manifolds (or want to look at headers)--where would you go?

Thanks, again, to all.

--------------------
1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L


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Kevin C
Trail Leader


Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6079
Loc: No where in particular
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: plh]
      #1244365 - 05/08/11 01:43 PM

You can build the bottom end to be turbo ready. There is a fair amount of latitude on the compression ratio. 8 to 1 will still work fine normally aspirated, but can still take 10 to 15 PSI of boost.

The mods I made on my swap was I had the crank hardened, added oil squirters, and set the compression ratio just over 8 to 1.

I also used non grooved balance shaft bearings that dont have a parting line seam and tri metal mains and rods. While I was at it I drilled out the pickup passage to the oil pump.

IMHO the important parts are adding the oil squirters to cool the piston bottoms and the hardened crank.


Kevin

--------------------
87 Turbo Intercooled Raider, roller cam, torsen rear diff, LSD front diff, lockup auto with modified converter, V6 brakes, low transfer case gears...


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don
Roll Me Over


Reged: 05/17/00
Posts: 3281
Loc: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: Kevin C]
      #1244472 - 05/10/11 12:21 PM

As far as 2.6L advice goes, you've been getting the best from the best, so not much to add here.

I've rebuilt 2x, overheating got me both times. Do everything you can to keep from overheating. Eddy's not wasting text when he goes on about the rad...
Keep the original rad if possible, the aftermarket one that's "just as good" isn't. Make sure the fan clutch works, and even put in a cooler thermostat (I went with a good stanton 180 F). I may have a good spare available soon. Rxinhed in Calif is your spare parts man. If you've got A/C, wire a manual switch to the fan to add the option of extra cooling at low speeds or when you need to pull over due to the heat.

When the head warps and the gasket pops, assume it's still warped. I've had mine shaved to get back to true, and the block had to be decked as well. There are good spacer gaskets out there, so this should be easy.

Bottom of the engine really is tough, so unless you messed up on oil flow, that is probably not the first thing to look at.
The head had "jet valves" which you can probably ignore or replace with a plug bolt (can't remember the part #).

In good repair, the 2.6 has good bottom-end torque, and is reasonable capable of most tasks. However, once the "bigger tire" bug bites, you will be introduced to its limitations more quickly! ...did I mention overheating? Lower diff gear ratios are an option here, too.

I've seen the turbo swaps, and it's not easy, but then no mod at that level is.
I've noticed on this board that if you have to ask, you can't do it.

I went with a well supervised 4.3L swap, but it was not simple.

edit:
I've had best results with Castrol's 10w-40 and 20W-50, and their deisel engine spec 15W-40 (?) was probably best.
The block is common, it was used in other vehicles, and the shops never had a problem with decking and boring (...an aftermarket oil pump gasket went).
Bluntly, the Mitsu parts are very good. Just look after them.
To prevent exhaust manifold problems later, cut the web between the middle 2 ports, as this will allow it to expand and contract without pushing itself off the back cylinder.

--------------------
Don `87 Mitsu 2dr, Rubicon survivor, GModified.

Edited by don (05/10/11 12:45 PM)


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fasteddy
Web Wheeler


Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 13554
Loc: Alpharettta, GA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: don]
      #1244498 - 05/10/11 07:57 PM

Quote:

To prevent exhaust manifold problems later, cut the web between the middle 2 ports, as this will allow it to expand and contract without pushing itself off the back cylinder.






Good catch. Meant to put that in. One advantage of a new head is that the back exh mani bolt is not pulled clean out of the head with the head threads still attached. More important on a turbo but still important enought to do on a carb motor.

Good to hear from you, Don...

--------------------
Not responsible for advice not taken...


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87monty
Rock Warrior


Reged: 11/06/08
Posts: 692
Loc: Visalia CA, Central Valley
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: plh]
      #1244524 - 05/11/11 03:09 AM

Quote:

Quote:



Upgrades? Add-ons?

You all have been great, please keep it coming. Thanks.




Grab a Starion or Conquest donor and swap in a turbo.




Yeah what he said! Welcome to the site!!

--------------------
87 Montero SWB= GPS,4speed At,
Intercooled Starion turbo2.6
soon to be:
Custom 5spd&
DOHC 4G64 Build [url=http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?
Cat=0&Board=UBB69&Number=1264694&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=]LInk[/url]

Need a turbo rebuilt?
http://turbotechservice.com/

Edited by 87monty (05/11/11 03:13 AM)


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don
Roll Me Over


Reged: 05/17/00
Posts: 3281
Loc: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: fasteddy]
      #1244540 - 05/11/11 10:31 AM

Hi fasteddy, ...still around.

I think that exhaust mani tip originally came from you!

I'm about to start a body/frame swap on my rusty rig, and recently sold the exhaust mani off the 2.6 in the donor. And the rear bolts were already so loose that there was a gap between the head and the mani. That reminded again of the "cut the web" idea.

--------------------
Don `87 Mitsu 2dr, Rubicon survivor, GModified.


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MTRaider
Need a Spot


Reged: 05/05/11
Posts: 8
Loc: Montana
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: don]
      #1244554 - 05/11/11 04:01 PM

Thanks, guys, for keeping it going--I know I'll have more direct questions once I get deeper in.

One I did want to bring up (so I can think of more than motors) is interior options. I see on many parts websites complete carpet sets advertised: Are these legit, or would you just go to a local shop? I can pull the seats easy enough, and a new headliner is a given. How about door panels? That cloth inset is fairly dirty: Do you replace it? Recover the whole panel? I'm guessing I could do pretty much what I want. What have some of you tried?

I'm just trying to get a picture of the whole project in my head. Thanks, again.

--------------------
1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L


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RECON45
Body Damage is Cool


Reged: 07/20/09
Posts: 1334
Loc: Statesville, NC
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: MTRaider]
      #1244558 - 05/11/11 04:41 PM

With the 2dr models those carpet kits are very easy to find, but impossible for the 4dr. The door panels can be recovered yourself however you want. Reuse the particle board and have at it.

--------------------
91 Montero LS "Sandstorm", Auto, Dual Bouncy Seats, 2" Suspension lift, 2" Body Lift, GENII front IFS, 32" MT tires

89 Raider "Trailbreaker", 3.0, Auto, Dual Bouncy Seats


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RipRaider88
Need a Spot


Reged: 06/29/11
Posts: 23
Loc: North Carolina, USA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: don]
      #1270212 - 10/05/12 11:10 AM

Hi:

Chiming in here, because my '88 Raider is at the mechanic's and I've been given the weekend to "think over my options". Seems like my deal is similar to others, and I'd really appreciate any feedback.

My '88 2.6L has 131K on it, and has been trouble-free, and burned virtually no oil. In city driving a few days ago, the engine smoldered slightly, and lost power as I lumbered up the 1.5 mile incline home. Normally this ride would be in 2nd gear, but the power bogged, and I downshifted to 1st. About 1/4 mile further up, the engine stalled, and smoke billowed from the passenger-front area of the block.

The engine was allowed to cool, and it restarted. I gingerly drove it back down the hill to the mechanic's garage.

The mechanic looking at it said that the safety plug had blown out, and the coolant was gone. Seems my temp gauge was inop, as I never got any hi-temp needle movement. He says that the engine has likely been ruined, and I should start shopping for a crate engine to swap before I make my core un-tradeable. Ouch!

Right now, when it cool starts, the engine sounds fine, but just before it died going up the hill, there was some abnormal pinging coming from it.

Any specifics I can give him before trolling the Internet for a $2,100 engine? Sure do love my Raider, and have done a lot to keep it sharp, but can't afford to go to the poor house keeping it alive.

Thanks!!


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fasteddy
Web Wheeler


Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 13554
Loc: Alpharettta, GA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: RipRaider88]
      #1270226 - 10/05/12 03:08 PM

Quote:

The mechanic looking at it said that the safety plug had blown out, and the coolant was gone. Seems my temp gauge was inop, as I never got any hi-temp needle movement. He says that the engine has likely been ruined, and I should start shopping for a crate engine to swap before I make my core un-tradeable. Ouch!






Your mechanic is imccmpetent, a liar, or you have misquoted him. My money is on #1 or 2.

There is no "safety plug".

You most probably do not need a new engine. You may need a new head, and a new head gasket. Your radiator needs to be removed and be rodded out.

You overheated (you REALLY need to get the gauge fixed) and perhaps warped the head. New Clearwater heads can be had for $350-400. A head gasket set is around $100. The shop labor should be around $500-650 max.

Re the radiator, the cores clog up over time, and rodding involves removing the tanks from the top and bottom of the core and knocking out the clogs with a fine rod, then soldering the taanks back on and leak testing and painting the radiator.

The pinging sound was preignition, caused by the overheated head.

One question. When you crank the truck now, what is the oil pressure? Any knocking sounds? If you remove the radiator cap (engine COLD, only) and idle the truck, does the water lever jump up and down in the neck? Does the truck miss at idle.

My best advice is find another mechanic, remove the head, pressure test the head, and have it resurfaced if it passes, buy a new one if not, and reinstall the head with the new gasket set. Have the radiator fixed while the head is in the machine shop.

Radiator rodding is about $100, usually, and should be done even with a new engine, so don't figure it in your cost comparison.

Where in NC are you?

--------------------
Not responsible for advice not taken...


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RipRaider88
Need a Spot


Reged: 06/29/11
Posts: 23
Loc: North Carolina, USA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: fasteddy]
      #1270236 - 10/05/12 05:26 PM

Hi:

Thanks for the info. All really good stuff.

Yeah, I don't have a way to check the oil pressure myself, but I've never had any idiot lights come up to indicate a problem there, and frankly the timing sounds good and the oil burn had been zero. The engine was puffing blue out the exhaust when I was up/downshifting just before she quit while going up the hill.

I had read about the Clearwater heads from earlier posts, and that sounds like it may be a good direction to go, if I can find someone who knows how to work on a Raider.

This is my first time with this mechanic, so I don't have anything to compare him to, and I'd rather cut bait and find someone who has it together. He said that I shouldn't drive the Raider any more, because maybe the block is cracked and it wouldn't be worth even a core credit with a rebuilt motor purchase if I do.

By the way, he called it something other than a "safety" plug, but he described a plug designed to pop if the engine seriously overheats, to avoid seizure. That was a new one on me, but other than having a torsion tool set and a dogeared Haynes book for minor fixes, I'm pretty much a newbie under the hood.

I'm in Waynesville, NC (about 20 miles from Asheville, NC). It would be worthwhile to me to tow or flatbed it somewhere else within reach where someone knows how to diagnose/repair a true 2.6L stock Raider. This mechanic's experience is that he keeps a '93 Dodge D50 that his dad left behind that he claims has a similar motor as mine.

Any ideas would be really, really helpful.

Thanks again. Thanks a lot.


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off-roaderModerator
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Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: RipRaider88]
      #1270243 - 10/05/12 06:41 PM

Quote:

By the way, he called it something other than a "safety" plug...



What you're describing is commonly called a freeze plug. That normally doesn't have problems if you overheat the engine. If anything I'd think it would be the other way around. It fails for whatever reason and then you have an overheat issue due to the lack of coolant.


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RipRaider88
Need a Spot


Reged: 06/29/11
Posts: 23
Loc: North Carolina, USA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: fasteddy]
      #1270244 - 10/05/12 06:41 PM

Quote:

One question. When you crank the truck now, what is the oil pressure? Any knocking sounds? If you remove the radiator cap (engine COLD, only) and idle the truck, does the water lever jump up and down in the neck? Does the truck miss at idle.




Sorry that I didn't address all of the questions prior. Thanks for asking.

When I cranked the Raider most recently, I heard no odd knocking or any sounds that are different than before the overheat/stall. I'll have to get the Raider back from the mechanic on Monday to determine if the water level jumps up or down in the neck. it does not seem to mis-fire at cold idl whatsoever. It idles slightly high, but solidly at 1,000 RPM.

Again, thanks for your feedback. This Raider is really solid inside and out, and deserves to thrive..!


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RipRaider88
Need a Spot


Reged: 06/29/11
Posts: 23
Loc: North Carolina, USA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: fasteddy]
      #1270362 - 10/09/12 04:48 PM

Hey guys:

Thought I'd report back regarding the above probs with my '88 Raider.

We were going to replace the freeze plug, refill the coolant, and check for issues, including the ones you Fasteddy suggested. Before we could do that, we found other issues. Would appreciate any feedback regarding 'em.

For openers, the manifold is cracked, for sure. You can see photos of it at the link below this text.

Second, there's a good bit of oil that's been emitted from the heads, and has thoroughly coated the block, etc.

Third, the fuel pump is leaking gas.

Fourth, one engine mount bolt is missing, and another is very loose.

Finally... there are indelible marker number in white ink on the engine block, which leads me to believe that my Raider's engine is a junkyard swap from a previous owner.

So, the plan is to find & install a replacement manifold, replace the freeze plug & coolant, and temperature sender, and see what symptoms occur while in the shop.

Been trying to locate a manifold online. Plenty of gaskets, but no manifolds. Any ideas?

I still think radiator rodding is a good idea, but I guess we'll have to see what the first step (replacing manifold) determines.

Any thoughts?

russellaudio.weebly.com/raider.html


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fasteddy
Web Wheeler


Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 13554
Loc: Alpharettta, GA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: RipRaider88]
      #1270366 - 10/09/12 06:29 PM

car-part.com for manifold

--------------------
Not responsible for advice not taken...


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rxinhed
The Mitsubishi Parts Guy


Reged: 02/21/05
Posts: 6567
Loc: Gerber, CA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: fasteddy]
      #1270368 - 10/09/12 08:14 PM

PM me.

--------------------
1987 Raider (Roxy), 1988 Mighty Max turbo (Pearl), 1987 Ramcharger (Ryan), Sundry parts and parts cars


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RipRaider88
Need a Spot


Reged: 06/29/11
Posts: 23
Loc: North Carolina, USA
Re: Rebuild or replace 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6L [Re: fasteddy]
      #1270369 - 10/09/12 08:14 PM

Thank you for that web address, sir. Invaluable. Already have an exhaust manifold coming this way, thanks to you.

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