Grasscat
Roll Me Over
Reged: 02/04/05
Posts: 2560
Loc: Livermore, Ca
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Only thing I can find so far in my 1998 manual, normal is 158° - 190°F.
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Michael j
TreadLightly! Trainer
Grasscat III, 1994 Gen 2 Five speed, Stock ( for a little while )
GrassCat II, 1998 Gen 2.5 Locked and loaded. Ran off with Hector.
GrassCat I, 1991 Gen 1 Ran off with Justice.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Not to take Jason's swap thread too far O/T...
Yes, mine is in the same spot as the OE sensor. I used a 16mmx1.5 to 1/8" NPT adapter from Autometer to install the standard Autometer sensor that's supplied with their electric temp gauges. Eddy I never really thought about it being that close to the exhaust to effect the gauge reading. I'll be adding fabbing a heat shield to my list of things to do when putting the motor and all back in...
Mine did regularly read well over 250*. I'm pretty sure the temp that the light comes on is the 276* figure. If you think about it, 170* is nearly impossible to maintain in the trans. First of all, the fluid runs thru a cooler in the radiator. The OE thermostat temp is 195*. So, at least when the fluid is in the cooler in the radiator, it's at 195*, give or take a few degrees. Mine is a lockup unit, so the trans should be the same. His truck is likely lighter than mine, mainly because it's a SWB vs LWB. That should account for several hundred pounds, I would think...
I've heard the "for every 10*" thing before. Not so sure I buy it completely. Heat is , in fact, the major killer of A/T's. It's really crazy though to watch the gauge when going up a hill and then down the other side. It can move almost as fast as the tach...
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Just another idiot...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12703
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Quote:
The OE thermostat temp is 195*.
Yup, I agree, but you are not at 195 in the radiator bottom tank unless the radiator is doing no cooling at all. In fact, the lower tank should be the coldest place in the cooling system. I have no way of figuring out how much cooler, but I bet at least 20*F, if not more.
I used to run a tranny temp gauge in the FJ55 with the 350sbc and the 700R4, and it stayed under 180 unless I was pulling a trailer in 3rd with the converter unlocked. It never got over 200. I had that sensor tapped into the pan, not the cooler lines, at first, but later put it into a well on the to the cooler line, as the pan temps were even lower.
Did your light used to come on during hill climbs? I don't trust your gauge reading. Anybody else running a tranny temp gauge? If so, what does it read?
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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My light came on once. But it also stayed on for several days. And it had been raining. Go figger...
Hadn't thought about the top to bottom temp difference in the radiator. I should've though... Duh...
Now, I don't trust my gauge readings anymore. I will definitely be putting some sort of heat protection against the exhaust...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10224
Loc: Columbia, SC
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TSB-89-21-005 (April 1989) says:
Cross out "50°C (122°F)" and write "150°C (302°F)
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12703
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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That 300+ makes this article really scary:
Quote:
Why Atf Wears Out
An automatic transmission creates a lot of internal heat through friction: the friction of the fluid churning inside the torque converter, friction created when the clutch plates engage, and the normal friction created by gears and bearings carrying their loads.
It doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins.
At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid's lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation of the transmission. If the temperature gets above 250 degrees F., rubber seals begin to harden, which leads to leaks and pressure losses. At higher temperatures the transmission begins to slip, which only aggravates overheating even more. Eventually the clutches burn out and the transmission calls it quits. The only way to repair the damage now is with an overhaul -- a job which can easily run upwards of $1500 on a late model front-wheel drive car or minivan.
As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!
At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you'll get before the transmission burns up.
If you think this is propaganda put forth by the suppliers of ATF to sell more fluid, think again. According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced.
On most vehicles, the automatic transmission fluid is cooled by a small heat exchanger inside the bottom or end tank of the radiator. Hot ATF from the transmission circulates through a short loop of pipe and is thus "cooled." Cooling is a relative term here, however, because the radiator itself may be running at anywhere from 180 to 220 degrees F.!
Tests have shown that the typical original equipment oil cooler is marginal at best. ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life.
Any number of things can push ATF temperatures beyond the system's ability to maintain safe limits: towing a trailer, mountain driving, driving at sustained high speeds during hot weather, stop-and-go driving in city traffic, "rocking" an automatic transmission from drive to reverse to free a tire from mud or snow, etc. Problems in the cooling system itself such as a low coolant level, a defective cooling fan, fan clutch, thermostat or water pump, an obstructed radiator, etc., will also diminish ATF cooling efficiency. In some cases, transmission overheating can even lead to engine coolant overheating! That's why there's a good demand for auxiliary add-on transmission coolers.
Auxiliary Cooling
An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiencies run in the 35 to 50% range.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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monte
Mudrunner
Reged: 01/02/04
Posts: 424
Loc: Sylmar, CA
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This is awesome info Eddy, Frank and everyone else. Thanks! Sorry I've been MIA for the last few days but I've needed a break from everything!  so that meant hardcore relaxing, BBQ'ing, swimming and drinking on he side 
So... Monday morning.. Time to start knocking out the details and get REDCAR road worthy!
I've driven him about 25miles now, and no issues except 1 MAJOR PROBLEM.. Lack of power, lack of boost and over heating  ..
Now to remind you all, when I first had all 3 transmissions in, I could lite up and spin the front tires like there's no tomorrow and the boost would come right up.
Now that I have a rear DS, and I got the CAT and muffler put back on, I've got what feels like a carb'd 2.6 
I can barely get up past 6psi of boost and on the FWY, in OD on the trans, I need more then 75% throttle and 5psi just to maintain 70mph and then my motor starts to get WAY TOO HOT!!!
Now this is a new CAT of this JAN, but when I was getting it off, I had to bang the hell out of it to pull it off. Maybe the beads fell down or broke loose? and now mounting it in a vertical position it's blocking the exh?
So... this morn, I'm going to unbolt those lovely 2 bolts that come off the bottom of the turbo down pipe and see if I get my power and fast boost back.
If so, then back to the muffler shop. If not, then I'm stumped.
Oh, and LOTS and LOTS of pics to come later !!
Jason
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1986 SWB Turbo Pajero (aka RedCar). 2" Lift, 33" BFG ATs, Rear locker,Custom 160a Alt, 9000lbs Warn Winch,Con-Ferr Custom built Safari rack just for RedCar!, Safari Snorkel,3 AGM Deep cycles,V6 Auto Trans.
1995 SR (aka Lucky).. Custom built and modded 3.5.. everything else stock.
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off-roader
Mitsubishi Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/16/00
Posts: 15496
Loc: Bay Area, CA
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I also wonder if the gen II Radiator provides a lot more cooling? If so, it might explain the problems with overheating .
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monte
Mudrunner
Reged: 01/02/04
Posts: 424
Loc: Sylmar, CA
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Quote:
I also wonder if the gen II Radiator provides a lot more cooling? If so, it might explain the problems with overheating .
I never had a problem before. I also have a custom 4 row radiator in there so that kinda helps!
No, I'm using too much throttle and there's too much back-pressure. Gotta figure this out. Getting ready to hit the garage and the ground again!
UGH!
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1986 SWB Turbo Pajero (aka RedCar). 2" Lift, 33" BFG ATs, Rear locker,Custom 160a Alt, 9000lbs Warn Winch,Con-Ferr Custom built Safari rack just for RedCar!, Safari Snorkel,3 AGM Deep cycles,V6 Auto Trans.
1995 SR (aka Lucky).. Custom built and modded 3.5.. everything else stock.
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monte
Mudrunner
Reged: 01/02/04
Posts: 424
Loc: Sylmar, CA
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Alright guys... getting my pics and ducks in a row so to speak.
Got the fan and radiator dropped down 2" yesterday. So that's done. Been having a pita of a time with the turbo and intake system since it's 2" further away and my rubber boot system is stretched further so it's either pulling off or not working for me. I need to look at the Starquest guys and see what they are doing but I'm getting ready for my Snorkel setup now.
But tranny setup, so far- so good, I need to finalize the temp gauge, and the OD setup. Besides that, I have a few things here..
1. On the HWY, it takes 0-3 psi to maintain around 70mph in OD. On the 5spd, I was always in VAC area but never in boost. Kevin verified this as well as his does this same.
2. I cannot keep HWY speed (70) on a grade with the OD. Have to turn it off (3rd gear) then i can keep 70mph.
3. I'm also pushing a TON of weight also. Kevin said his vehicle is around 3700 or 3800? Last time I weight mine, it came in at almost 4800 lbs!!!  plus he's bare and driving 31's. I'm driving 33's and have a 9000lbs winch, associated mounting, massive roof rack and air dam on top and all the under carriage protection so now I see where the power is going so now I don't feel so bad.
4. A 2.6L engine pushing this much vehicle and still getting 16mpg is not bad! 
Anyways.. pics come here in a bit.
P.S. my idea of a "grade" is the steep side of the Grapevine on the 5 fwy  that I used to be able to go up in 5th gear on my 5spd
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1986 SWB Turbo Pajero (aka RedCar). 2" Lift, 33" BFG ATs, Rear locker,Custom 160a Alt, 9000lbs Warn Winch,Con-Ferr Custom built Safari rack just for RedCar!, Safari Snorkel,3 AGM Deep cycles,V6 Auto Trans.
1995 SR (aka Lucky).. Custom built and modded 3.5.. everything else stock.
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